20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki Swift - Page 5 Questions & Answers

This is the vehicle's check engine light, and it means that the on-board diagnostic computer has detected a fault and stored a service code. Your Holden dealer, any reputable mechanic, and many auto parts stores can retrieve the code and tell you what part or system requires service.

Bill B.

Suzuki worldwide use 10/40 semi synthetic,for temperatures from minus10C to plus 30C......(ambient).

dont think it has one only a gauze filter on the bottom of the fuel pump in the tank

put tire back on with the lug nuts loose a few turns. drive in a circle to put a side load on the rim. Do not go far or fast!!!

1 I think auto fan is not running
2 water is not cerullat in waterpump if pump is ok,
3 then check the thermostor mount end of upper hose pipe near tappit cover

Hi to locate the pump all you need to do is get the washer bottle then follow this to the bottom of the washer bottle then once you at the bottom you will see the pump it has a clip with wires in it that need unclipping then the pump itself just pulls out of the bottle as its only pushed into a rubber bung, if you buy the new pump first you will see exactly what i mean

its not a big job but you may need to get to it from under the car as it will be easier to get to.

please let me know if you need further assistance ok

plz can you rate this post as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks

That same exact combination of items is on the same fuse in the grand vitara and is a common problem. on the vitara the fuse panel is to the left of the driver's knee. most likely in same spot on your car. the fuse in question was the bottom most forward fuse in the panel. you can just pull them out one by one until you find the burnt one and replace it with one of the same amperage. thereafter discourage folks from using the lighter.

It is possible that your car has some blocked jets, the fuel pump/injectors need a retune. Change the fuel filter and do a general suzuki 20 check up. the fault will clear off. I am sure this is a fault linked to the firing/fuel at the low RPM. What you can check is to see the filters, the electric section for poor contacts. Hope you try. Good day

Generally speaking for most cars the timing belt should be replaced every 50-100 thousand miles. The main cause for concern comes into play when you hear your timing belt squeal or make a loud noise. All you have to do is look an feel. Usually if there is slack or not enough of it you will have to replace it.

should take dexcron...call your local parts store & they can let you know also. this info should also be on the dipstick.

If you paid the Dealer to find out what was wrong (why the light was on), he should have told you. If you paid the Dealer to fix the problem, you should not have the light on now. Either way, if he has your money, you should either know what needs fixing or what he fixed. Go back to the Dealer and get what you paid for.
If of course, you took your car in for a service and you haven't been charged anything extra, then chances are nothing has been done.
Most Dealerships are normally phoning customers back saying this needs doing or that needs doing, after you have taken the car in unaware that anything needed doing (mostly it doesn't either).
Even without mentioning a "Check Engine" or emissions warning light being on, this should have been picked by any self-respecting mechanic, and an assurance may have even been sought from you that were aware that they hadn't done anything to rectify it before you took the car.
Having said all that, the most common problems with emissions and/or check engine warning lamps being on (in general - not just Suzuki) would be from oxygen sensors and cat converter temp probe failures. These sensors sit quietly in the exhaust system baking away at 1000 degrees telling the ECM it's running too rich or lean (O2 sensor) or that the cat convertor is too hot (usually after its been running too lean!).
Go back to the Dealer and find out what has failed. Don't tell him to fix it (unless you've already paid) as some of these sensors can be many hundreds of dollars.

If it shift into gears when it is off,and won't when it is not.

It is a defective neutral Position switch. .

The vehicle will only go into gear if started in NUTRAL.

This is a safety risk and should only be used to take the car to repair ship if you can't replace it where it is.

One of your accesory drive assemblies could be bringing your motor down. Such as your power steering pump or water pump. If the bearings in either of those were to go bad it could interfere with your idle while sitting in traffic. Also, while you are sitting in traffic your foot is most likely on the brake pedal. If you have a vacuuum leak at your throttle body or brake booster it would affect your idle in that situation.
Hope this helps. Don't forget to give a vote. Thanks.

Hi.

If the check engine light came on, that means that there are faults codes stored in the ECU module (car computer).

The codes must be scanned using an OBDII code reader.

The codes will tell you the nature of the problem.

If you are located in the US, code reading can be done for free at the nearest Autozone. Code reading is usually done for a small fee at any garage.

Once you have the codes you may get back to us for more troubleshooting.

If the problem happened in very hot condition, it can be O2 sensor, AIT and MAF sensors, compression problem, cooling system, lubrication, vacuum and gas recirculation. This are just educated guesses without more testing, get the code reading first.

Regards.

what is wrong with it and i can help

155/70R13 is stock but if it doesnt rub you could try a littly bigger but not recommended

If you're lucky, on the inside of the door, will be a triangular panel right behind the mirror that you can pop off. If you're not as lucky and it's one piece or the panel is blocked by the door panel, you'll need to remove the door panel to change it.

On the inside trim, you can remove screws (these screws may be covered by filler pieces or may be visible, or they may require you pry a plastic piece off that covers the screws) that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls. Then you can remove the bolts holding the mirror onto the door