Top 20 2003 Chrysler Sebring Questions & Answers

https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Chrysler+Sebring.+%27headlight+time+delay%27 " normal starting doesn't is inoperable " Whut? ..

The ECU will turn of the fuel pump if it sees the engine has not started, you can turn the ignition switch on and off or energizer the pump relay to prime the fuel system.

OK. Nothing to do with water pump. Recommend checking your IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit. This allows air to bypass the throttle body while idling, at stop sign, etc. Here are a couple of links that should help you Chrysler Sebring Idle Air Control Valve How To Install Replace Idle Air Control Valve 2 7L 2001 06 Chrysler...

had a similar problem with older car. turned out it was my gas tank was not letting in air to replace the gas i was using as i drove. if you loosen gas cap and problem is solved, search for blocked fuel return line to the tank. repair/replace gas tank if it is seriously 'caved in'.

no the ECM ( engine control module) is responsible for the engine operation you have several control modules all connected by a canbus unit which allows each one to communicate could possibly be a bad ground , or harness connection run the fault codes

Yes, your water pump attaches to the front of the engine block. If a leak opens up between the two, coolant goes into the crankcase along with oil. That means water and oil are being circulated through the bearings and cylinders of your engine. Don't drive it in this condition.

it is the problem

WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN THE PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED. RELAY TEST The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location. Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described to perform the following tests:

1. A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
2. Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ±5 ohms . If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
3. Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 86 and a ground lead to terminal 85 to energize the relay. The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to Relay Circuit Test procedure. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.

RELAY CIRCUIT TEST

1. The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
2. The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
3. The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to the common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87 and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the starter solenoid as required.
4. The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is energized when the ignition switch is held in the Start position and the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans). Check for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the Start position and the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans), and no voltage when the ignition switch is released to the ON position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, check for an open or short circuit to the ignition switch and repair, if required. If the circuit to the ignition switch is OK, see the Ignition Switch Test procedure.
5. The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is grounded through the transmission range sensor only when the gearshift selector lever is in the Park or Neutral positions. Check for continuity to ground at the cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the transmission range sensor and repair. It is grounded by the PCM if the conditions are right to start the car. For automatic trans. cars the PCM must see Park Neutral switch and near zero engine rpm. For manual trans. cars the PCM only needs to see near zero engine rpm. To diagnose the Park Neutral switch of the trans range sensor refer to the transaxle section for more information. Check for continuity to ground while the ignition switch is in the start position. If not OK and the vehicle has an automatic trans. verify Park Neutral switch operation. If that checks OK check for continuity between PCM and the terminal 85. Repair open circuit as required. If OK, the PCM may be defective

This should get you going on the diagnosis.

Yes it looks nasty you need to have your cooling system flushed this is something that I would recommend letting a shop handle for you they will put the right coolant in and it can be tricky to properly flush the whole system out less than 100 bucks outside a dealership

2 items spring to mind the battery should be load tested as there may be a failing cell dropping the voltage too low when the starter is in use pull the starter and have it bench tested as the armature will pole out from failed bushes and that will make the action very slow and also cause low voltage from the excessive current flow as for the park and neutral problems , I would be checking the connections to the switches for corrosion , loose or burnt get a schematic diagram of the fuse set up as increasing the amps of a fuse in use is a recipe for a burnt car talk with an auto electrician about it when you take the starter to him

Your anti theft system has engaged. You can usually reset it by locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key. Unfortunately I am not a Chrysler expert, so am no help other than that.

vacuum leak

After doing a lot of reading on bus errors in Chrysler models, I've found that Chrysler did a lot of changing/upgrading between the 1980s when the CCD (Chrysler Collision Detection) bus was introduced and 2005, when most models were switched to the CAN (Controller Area Network) bus system. In between those two, from 2001 through 2004 for most models, they used the PCI (Programmable Communication Interface) bus system. With the older CCD bus system, apparently many NOBUS errors could be corrected by changing the crank position sensor, as it was one of the signals carried by the bus. Or it could be corrected by changing the PCM or instrument cluster. For the PCI system, ALL controllers with microprocessors (PCM, TCM, BCM, instrument cluster, anti-lock brake controller, air bag controller, keyless entry, sound system, etc) are linked to the PCI bus. So a NOBUS error message in the odometer only says that there is a communication fault in the bus; it can't tell you which module/microprocessor is not working properly or if it's a wiring error. Changing out the PCM may correct the problem since the PCM is the 'dominant' module, but no guarantees. Reading forums and other web sites regarding this issue, the prevailing advice is to use a DRB scanner capable of communicating with the different modules to see if they are all communicating properly. But it seems that the fault most often lies in a poor ground connection or damaged wiring or connectors. If your local mechanics are stumped, find one (or go to a dealer) who can do troubleshooting of all modules with appropriate scanners. It may be a quick fix, but you'll have to invest in the expertise of someone who knows what to look for and how to diagnose it.

New battery

When it shuts off at idle, can you still hear the humming of the fuel pump?

If you pop the hood and look at the front of the vehicle, there will be on the right hand side on the upper half of the transmission a box about the size of a 5x4x3 inch box. This is your solenoid set which is what I think that you are looking for... IF you believe that this is bad, check for dirt in the screens. There is also a computer component that is next to the fenders and should be a part of the computer. That part probably isn't bad. What is the issue... btw...?

It could be a number of things from your description. Places to start. 1. Change your transmission fluid and filter. (Not just the quick switch). This is because you need to have good fluid to downshift properly. 2. It could be torque converter related if you have slippage of rpms at higher rpms. 3. There is an electronic solenoid that may be the source (check for leaks) and it is located front right half way up the engine when looking at the car. Good luck!

There is no seperate relay for up and down. It is the same one. What problem are you having?

Probably bad alternator bearing starting to fail. Locks up and your jerk startin it breaks it free for a while.

So the plugs just matched or you cut a bunch of wires? Sorry to say, But the factory stereo has a data wire/s that interacts with all the computers on the car. You put voltage(12) to these wires (because there are a couple of them) And you blow circuits in other computers.