Top 10 2003 Chrysler Sebring Questions & Answers

Here's a link to 98' - 2004 Intrepid 2.7. If you have dual cam etc. and all looks same, you should be o.k. Take a real good look at picture. If you click on it when you get there, it expands.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152801d4ab5

Do some checking if you haven't already, the harness may already be there under carpet. If not, you may have to sweet talk a service guy at dealership for the print you need, or try www.alldata.com.

P1294 verbiage is simply "Target Idle Not Reached (+/-200 RPM)" which unfortunately is one of the DTC's that is least helpful. The most likely cause of this is a simple vacuum leak, very possible a leaking gasket at the base of the throttle body. What happens is unmetered air enters the engine confusing the PCM, forcing the IAC to chase the idle speed up and down. The first thing you should do is look under the hood and verify that all of the vacuum hoses are connected and in good shape, the brake booster isn't leaking and finally get a can of carb cleaner and go hunting for a leak. If you haven't done this before I recommend letting someone who is comfortable with the procedure do it for you or show you how.

When you get that code it means that the computer isn't detecting the relay kicking in and starting the cooling fan.
In most cases replacing the relay for the fan will cure that problem and you can erase the code with scanner once the problem is repaired
P1490 Low Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit - you need to check and make sure the cooling fan is coming on when it suppose to.

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Parts Approx...... $70
Labour ...............2 hour. May take up to 8 Hours. It Depends on your experience how fast you get the job done.

Location. its located somewhere behind the alternater. so you must romove alternator. (Ac Compressor removal is optional)

1. Disconnect Battery Cable,
2. Raise the car on Hoist Or Jack up
3. Drain Coolant from Radiator
4. Remove Right Front Wheel and Splash Shields
5. Remove Belt and Tensioner
6.Remove Dip Stick Bolt + remove Dip Stick tube. ( cover dip stick hole so that coolant dosunt get in to oil pan) or (Do an oil change if coolant gets in to oil pan)
7. Remove Lower Alternator Bolt
8. Remove Uper Alternator Bolts (Access from the Hood).
9. Remove All the Connections to the Alternator and Ac.
11. Remove Thermostat housing bolts
12. Remove thermostat

to installl Reverse the procedure and at the end open the bleeder valve and pour in coolant slowly in to the reservoir

Start Engine

add coolant and bleed the air out.
let the thermostat valve open and cerculate coolant untill Rad cooling fan cycles.

thats it you are done!!

Connect a manual fuel gauge to the schrader type valve on the fuel rail and turn key to on position. It should pressure up to aprox 45-48 pounds. .

there are diffrent engines on this car so i will tell you where they are on both, to replace the cam sensor you just unplug connector and remove the bolt holding it and it slides out, the 2.4 engine the sensor is at the rear of the cylinder head at the end of the camshaft and the 2.7 engine the sensor is at the front of the engine at cylinder head. here are two picture diagrams to help you one is a 2.4 engine which is a 4 cylinder engine and the other is the v-6 engine 2.7. hope this is helpful, good day.

duplicate question

This is the fuse panel inside the vehicle on the left side of the end of the dash. I think you have to open the door in order to see the cover to expose the fuses. The fuse I have marked is the only fuse I see in all the wiring diagrams for the circuits you described. hope this is it and a simple fuse change corrects the problem for you.

WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN THE PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED.

RELAY TEST
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.

Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described to perform the following tests:

1. A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
2. Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 ±5 ohms . If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
3. Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 86 and a ground lead to terminal 85 to energize the relay. The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to Relay Circuit Test procedure. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.

RELAY CIRCUIT TEST

1. The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
2. The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
3. The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to the common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87 and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the starter solenoid as required.
4. The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is energized when the ignition switch is held in the Start position and the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans). Check for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the Start position and the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans), and no voltage when the ignition switch is released to the ON position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, check for an open or short circuit to the ignition switch and repair, if required. If the circuit to the ignition switch is OK, see the Ignition Switch Test procedure.
5. The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is grounded through the transmission range sensor only when the gearshift selector lever is in the Park or Neutral positions. Check for continuity to ground at the cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the transmission range sensor and repair. It is grounded by the PCM if the conditions are right to start the car. For automatic trans. cars the PCM must see Park Neutral switch and near zero engine rpm. For manual trans. cars the PCM only needs to see near zero engine rpm. To diagnose the Park Neutral switch of the trans range sensor refer to the transaxle section for more information. Check for continuity to ground while the ignition switch is in the start position. If not OK and the vehicle has an automatic trans. verify Park Neutral switch operation. If that checks OK check for continuity between PCM and the terminal 85. Repair open circuit as required. If OK, the PCM may be defective

This should get you going on the diagnosis.