20 Most Recent 2004 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 3 Questions & Answers

easter egg hunt 1,000,000well we have answered this like 50 times nowand you never once stated what engine is there.so ill guess for youcoin toss, lands on V6the V6, has a center, of crank tone wheel.RELUCTOR cast in place.that means the sensor can only be 2 placeson a v6 like this.on the left rigth block, side.on this IIRC its RIGHT center.

A serious fault has occurred in the engine or transmission and the powertrain control module has reduced power to prevent any further damage to the drivetrain, I know that the check engine light is on as well. What you must do now is have the fault codes read with a OBD2 system code reader, once you have these fault codes you perform the needed diagnostics and repair the problem, There are no quick fixes.

no job stated, just 1 injector,? pull? which bank or both, matters........ same as all fuel rail injectors.really....cept access. 1: do the fuel depressurize steps in the service manual. 2: battery neg lug off. 3: gain access to the rail. (obvious , sorry) intake man pulled! remove, fuel line and cross over,fuel lineis on right bank only. 4:remove the injector connectors, or if one,just one. 5: remove the injector rail 3 rail bolts or 6 if both banks. 6: they are now free. this one photo makes it obvious.... no? you must get to here. to depressurize, pull fuel pump relay as step 1 crank engine , let it stall from fuel, then do it.

High beams work ? dimmer switch .

no engine stated.answering for usa rodeo. only. on a usa forum.it means trouble; the factory manual covers this.As does mitchells DIY online, read that much>?those are called DTCs , scan codes. diagnostic trouble codes.The PCM looks for problems all the time running,CALLED MONITORS (a sort of nanny) all cars do this 96 to now, in USA. by law.If no book or no mitchells try google (or the like)if you had you'd have seen isuzu examples. but google finds this in 1 click. the great justanswersl.com (ASE Techs)?112512951515DTC P1125: ELECTRIC THROTTLE CONTROL (ETC) LIMIT PERFORMANCE MODE.2nd hit.,P1125 Isuzu Electronic Throttle Control Limit Performance Mode P1221 Isuzu Throttle Position Sensor 1-2 Circuit Performance P1295 Isuzu Electronic Throttle Control Power Management Mode P1515 Isuzu TP Sensor To MAF Sensor Correlationthe first hit said, bad grounds top engine to PCMand bad harness wires to above same place.but as all techs, no, bad wires, happen all the time.as do vast other reasons.what I do , as the FSM states, clearlyis pick one failure and correct it, and sometimes gets them all.like blown fuses do, on all vehicles.1125 means limphome, is in force Low power too. the TPS is acting up.the 1515 means in Englishthat the Throttle angle and air flow dO NOT JIBE.my jeep books calls that "incongruity": (nicer word)or they differ. and should not.i'd be checking the TPS voltages. for correct voltage.this can fail for wires, rust, and bad sensors.the word performance means it reads funny. (wrong)we use a real scan tool and a real volt meter to see what the readings are on these parts.why not get a real ASE tech to find it.they know all that electronics magic, ALL learn that there can be false codes.one failure can trip many codes, but only one is the fundamental code.or vacuum leaks cause many errors but not onestates vacuum leaks.see?

The online store for Isuzu showsone ecu for each engine, (and 2 for 3.2L v6 one for the sport and one for non sport.)seems that means it needs to be programmed first.call them and ask.http://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.htmlyou an not,I can buy the special programmer that does thismany pro shops have it.but you need the data files. and ISUZU will not give you that. ever.not only that this rule is EPA law, here.so....good luck fighting EPA.

Hi this could be an air leak in a vacuum hoses or the hose from the air filter to the throttle body may have a small split and sucking airit doesn't take much air suck to cause a problemGood Luck :)Also i must add a possible fuel supply problem or dirty injectors.or possible lack of pressure in the fuel rail.only some of the scenarios but most likely one of them will be the problem.

its a common fault on an isuzuwont be any good driving it as it is (10 mph) out on the highway under load or up hills time for a hire car if travel plans are urgent will assume its a petrol motor . v6.auto does it idle well ?possible causes or reduced power on this Isuzu02 sensors TPS or idle control sensor poor earths or broken wirealternator not charging to spec battery getting oldecu.(engine computer ).is not getting full 12 volts / faulty diodes

Change them to what?

have turn signal bulbs checked, normally when one comes on and oes not flash/blink the opposite side is burnt out.

Its right below the condenser housing underneath the distributor cap

sounds like someone playing a bad joke on you! lock is filled with goooooooo

First thing I would check is timing then plugs and wires. With electronic ignitions, even bad plugs and wires can cause rough running and pinging and knocking, backfire and such.

Hi, if its the standard matsushita (Panasonic) double DIN head unit then unfortunately it's a mechanical issue, and due to the intricacy of this fine autochanger it is beyond economical repair, check: http://www.browse.to.it/c6.html for the picture, It's a new unit, to test 1st disconnect the old (broken) CD unit and check that it's the same make (ie not Sanyo) and with the same connector and that the radio functions 100% - Duncan

does not work,means?1: lamps in dash told me that2: front axle dead, on ice? 3: FRONT Prop shaft dead, on ice or stands?4: front prop ok,(spins but front axles is dead.we cant guess what not works means.this part time4wd, and only works on ice or dirtits not TOD, nor AWD, like on say a Trooper.its the old PT 4wd, and has strict rules for usageill pretend it fails on ice, below....automatic or stick shift box? main?this part time system is for iced roads or offroadhave you tested it off road yet? (or on iced over pavement?) Unlike TOD system (torque on demand)also you can test it all out on jack stands.lots of steps to that, do need all that. ?any 4wd shop in town knows all the steps.called hand testing 4wd. (part time 4wd)what we do is make sure the the transfer case worksby hand, then front axle left to right to center works.I an also do this just front end off the ground,is car automatic or stick shift. tests vary thatstarting in 1996,the new front axle uses SHIFT on the FLy,part time 4wd, and can be tested on stands. Jack stands. got those>?the front axle has vsv vacuum actuator(or elect motor)that locks the front axle.there are many systems of 4wd, and even Part time.this one Vacuum, operated, and to test it other than having vacuum pump like me (portable)means you must have engine running to test it on stands. hint, lots more dangerous.first i jackup whole car on stands x4and put car in say 1st gear, or a/t in low.then TRANSFER CASE TO 4WD.AND MAKE SURE THE front prop shaft spins. at a distance , if yes the trans fer case works.all 4 wheels spin, (no people or pets near car0and someone in drives seat ,not you, for safety.hand brake is off. (sure0my guess now is the front wheels are dead.back wheels must spin , if brakes drag, one will slower.. (oops another problem)but front is dead, and so is the front actuator dead. the front prop shafts spins, but of the actuator is dead, the left axle unlocks.to discover why, takes a vacuum pumpas no sane person would go under running engine with 2 live prop shafts. are you following me?what i do is test the actuator with only left wheel side on jack stands, right tire groundthe actuator is right there, see its vacuum diaphram casing, sure, see its vacuum nipplei apply vacuum there. engine off, in 4wd, park (a/t) or m/t in 1st gear.i apply say 10 inches of vacuum or more.causes the actuator to move and the tire left locks up. (feel by hand turning tire)the front prop shaft can not move. in this mode.allowing me to test left front lock.if spins free, the actuator is failingif this locks, then the cars vacuum switches are failing. more tests.im not going to document this part, (too long)this is very simular to a jeep system with vacuumother cars use a pressure pump there.all versions of 4wd have different ways to test in a shop.why not go a 4wd shop. and get helpor any ASE shop in town?that was the easy part.the motor version, we hot wire the motorto see it work.using this drawingunplug it firsthot wire the 2 pins,always observe polaritycheck voltage there in 4wdif 12vdc there, then the controls are are workingand if yes,,you now know which pin is Plus.my guess pin 4 is plus 12vthis step replaces vsv tests above.its just an electric motor here.the transfer case (frontprop shaft dead symptoms)on this car it has motor too.there.and a controllerthe controller need the backup fuse goodthen the transmission not in neutral,sends12vdc power from neutral (not) goes to the controller to the motor drive controllertesting all this is tedious.id check the motor there first on the transfer case.mitchells has the drawings for all this.see them now.

dash light? that be the map switch broken and shorted or wire to it same. ask you mech,to fix this,, is like real basic electrics. answer assumes all else on car works 100%

4wd or optional TOD, ? if using part time 4wd? that simple systems needs , ice on road or offroad so DO tell what tires are touching>? the car is no AWD. the rules for using it is in the operators guide, read that? if on dry pavement (no ice) the transmission will not like using 4wd, there is no center differential and will bind up. test it on dirt or ice, first. work now>? using PT, system one tire must bie on a slippery surface, or it will wind up. or lockup or fail to shift,just like read jeeps do , with PT 4wd. (owned 6)

Try going to www.car-part.com They have a built in Hollander interchange, if there is anything out there that will interchange it will let you know.

Cars have a locking solenoid that prevents the vehicle from being shifted out of Park when the engine is running if the brake pedal is not pressed. This is to prevent accidental shifting into gear by children left in running cars, or people leaning over the shifter to get to the glove box, etc. Sounds like the solenoid is not being deactivated when the brake pedal is pressed. There is usually a manual release button in case this feature fails, but the button may be inconvenient to access. You could try putting the car in Neutral before trying to start it, since most cars will start in either the Park or Neutral position. This will allow you to use the vehicle until you can diagnose and make repairs.