20 Most Recent 2001 Jeep Cherokee - Page 5 Questions & Answers

open inside skins and find why lock is bad. or get help.

the first step is: 1: is engine coolant , at 180F or more and holding hot. it must to proceed. see the 10 steps here (works for all cars) http://www.fixkick.com/AirCond/heater.html

the first step is 1: engine coolant must be 180F or more and holding hot. is it? 2: fan blows. if both those are good, ask how to use a pryro gun (IR)>? then the dampers are closed (Malfing)

fuses first.

do you have interior lights on and or headlights? if so its not your battery. could be a range of things. need some more details.

is this a how to question. its in the fsm. ill post only the first step... 1: remove the battery nEG lug or BOOM acid bath.. blinding,you. RTM, read the FSM. read starting systems. here http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service easy huh? just RTM.

I had this problem back in 2009 -- dealer told me it was the fuel pump (without looking -- it wasn't); then I had the distributor replaced (definitely needed it, but it wasn't that either); ultimately turned out to be the crank position sensor (solved the problem). Recommendation: go to a reputable mom-and-pop shop, or if you're able, do the repair yourself. Best of luck to you.

Most of these cars have a switch that is activated by your touching the brake pedal to turn off the cruise when you brake. Usually that is a small plastic switch, hidden up under the dashboard, that will "open" when you press the brake. ( A little plunger will come out of the switch). These switches often break or fall out of their holder, being really cheaply made. Be blessed.

alldata.com page 1, line 1 (serp) Tension is maintained using an automatic tensioner pulley assembly. The drive belt is tensioned by adjusting the position of the idler pulley, accomplished by moving the adjuster bolt on the idler mechanism. here, pasted in whole. Serpentine Belt Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked'' all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys. Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys, and that the cooling fan cannot activate while servicing the belt(s). NOTE Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing diagram. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been modified), carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.
2. For tensioners equipped with a 1/2 in. (13mm) square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
3. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
4. Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine.

To install:

1. While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
2. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run your hand around the pulleys and make sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
3. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
4. Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
5. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.

It will be necessary to undo the pulley nut first as the adjuster bolt has to be able to move the pulley spindle and the nut is what locks it in place to take the load off the little adjusting bolt.

you could always add a good pair of aftermarket fog lights that come with a relay kit and switch you mount to the dash .The only thing is by most laws you cannot run high beams w/aftermarket fog lights on at the same time only low beam ,they have to be manually turned off for oncoming traffic.You can get a good set for around $65.00.These kits come with easy instructions.

in the uSA? all cars in USA use an OBD2 scan tool. 2001. 96+ you connect a $9 scan tool and scan it. or ask any mechanic to so that. (all can) if you go to auzozoned, they get it wrong 1/2 the time. P0xxx codes anyone can do. (federal standard) P1 or P2 codes, most cant. (jeep only codes)

replace the radiator its stripped

don't know what a sump is my friend. but pump is bolted to the bottom of engine under the oil pan.

sounds like a vacuum leak,check the vacuum lines/connections.

Is there a metallic noise (clanking) when you put it into gear?? You may have a crankshaft sensor or crankshaft wiring that is causing problems. Check to see if there is any wires on the exhaust manifold or the exhaust system anywhere.

You could have 1 of these 3 problems.1. The injector on cylinder #5 is clogged and not injecting. 2. The Ignition coil on Cylinder #5 is not firing. 3. One of the exhaust valves on #5 is sticking due to carbon build up.Hope one of these gets you closer to the solution.