20 Most Recent 1988 Ford F 150 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

check the belt.

Located under the steering wheel on the fuse relay panel.

go to the auto parts store and get an upper engine rebuild readout on that particular engine.. using a fake truck(pickup).. the motor instructions are the same..just take each section off at a time.. keep all the fasteners separate so you know where they go when putting it all back..taking photos before you start, helps..first you need tom drain all the antifreeze out..and disconnect the battery..all the hoses from the upper cooling system ..fuel line..transmission downshift cable..electric wires.. marking each from front to back..air cleaner assembly..pedal linkage.. and once all the acessory hardware is removed.. you can remove all the intake bolts.. carb will need to come off first to get to some of them usually 4 bolts hold it in place..you will need an upper engine intake gasket set before you start this job..good luck..

The solenoid is grounded through the bolt that fastens it to the inner fender. If it isn't enough make a new one that goes from the mounting bolt of the solenoid to the negative of the battery

Air filter not the problem look for hose off around air box.

Suspect a faulty rotor or drum. Make sure brake calipers are not sticking.

ITS THE SWITCH ITSELF.

has he installed new distributor cap an rotor button

check the fuses and the relays. and finally the ignition switch, its rare but the little wires get loose or broken, and send no electrical power to the switch

Get the proper schematic (chilton repair manual) and replace with proper size vacuum hose, follow where they went and replace cracked ones.

check the vacuum hose to the carbies There is a hose that controls the plungers in the carbies

Basic mechnical timing procedure: remove #1 spark plug bring to compression stroke top dead center (check timing mark on crank dampener, line up to 0 deg.) put distributor in block lining up distributor rotor to where #1 wire is on cap when cap is locked in place on distributor. It may not drop all the way down due to distributor shaft has to align with oil pump shaft. Use socket and turn engine until distributor drops in. You may need to keep a little pressure down on it to drop in. Bring back to compression top dead center on #1 and check that rotor now aligns with #1 wire on cap. Fasten with u clamp and bolt. Don't tighten distributor all the way down yet as you may have to move it a little to start vehicle and then set the timing with timing light. Then tighten down bolt and install vacuum line.

This is typical for an engine that has gotten water in the fuel. The best solution is to drain the fuel tank.SOMETIMES you can get by with using a product called HEAT that is for water in the gas tank during the winter. It encapsulated the water so it doesn't impact the gas's ability to burn - but if the water content is too high, even HEAT can't offset it.

Well what does it do when you hit the gas? If it's nothing then I'd look to see if the cable broke or if the throttle linkage into the throttle body is damaged.

window motor gone bad.

I think you are on the right track but eliminate all vacuum lines first from the equation i think here in lies your problem a cracked hose or poorly fitted one from what you described here, and thank you for a full description of the problemThanks in advance please remember to rate and leave testimonial this is how we get our milestones on FixYa and please remember we are volunteers here we receive no payment and work jobs too so answers may not come as fast as you like please be patient with us. Thanks for using us the FixYa team.