20 Most Recent 1988 Ford F 150 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Check for vacuum leaks

Have to start testing that systemNo wiring diagrams your in troubleSort of like no road map,don't knowwhat is there to test or what happenedGiven the age, you can be sure it is a rust& corrosion wiring problem,IF infact thereis no battery voltage (power) to whateveryour doing.Need a volt meter ,system knowledge (wiringdiagrams) & do voltage drop testsYou got power to most everything,what you don'thave is a complete circuit to operate the fuel pumpI would check to see if everything on the truck works,except the fuel pump.If your loosing other items, then check fuseable linksThe top of the fuel tank may be the issue, as you have all sortsof water,rust,etc & the wires for the pump,IF the pump isany good

check to see that you have fuel all the way to the engine.to do this: pull the fuel pump fuse and, crank the engine a few times to releive pressure then open the fuel line, cover it with a rag for safety then: replace the fuse and, crank the engine just for a second or, two if no fuel comes out it's another fuel filter probably on the truck frame rail that is the problem or, low pressure from the fuel pump

Which circuit ? Sensors, injectors, ignition ?

Many idling problems such as yours can be resolved by simply having the car tuned up ie , new air filter, change all spark plugs, oil change, etc... you'd be surprised by the outcome! Good luck.

go to www.autoelectronico. com and fix it. Translate this amazing website with your browser . God bless you

its the brain

the nain fuel pump power on mos fords was PINK or RED. But 1st check would be the anti-rollover switch (Usually up near the kickpanel). If that has tripped, pressing the reset button will restore power to the pump.

inner driver side fender well along with the eec relay

240F is what many call the beging of a hot run problem.

What you describe is a "heat sink problem". Within 3 minutes, the faulty component has not had enough time to cross the threshold of failure. Residual heat will build after an engine is shutdown, and exceed heat limits that the fans and the water pump usually disperse.Wiring diagrams are available at Autozone on the Web when your register your vehicle.You can try several things working within the 1 hour time frame. Open the hood and see if the downtime is shorter. By opening the hood, you let heat escape. Test the circuits that are dead and see where the power drops off. You know the coil and module are dead, were the Power terminals supplying the relays tested during Downtime?Now if you had not said there was a Power issue, this would sound like a "lean fuel" problem caused by a temperature sensor keeping the engine set too lean to fire.Crazy as it may sound, Anti--theft systems kill circuits when battery voltage drops. A hot battery could react to "heat sinks" and throw off the anti-theft.Would be interested with what you find.

Is it an Automatic or stick shift transmission?

The straight 6 is a 4.9 literthe v-8 options are a 5.0 and a 5.8. This should be indicated on the intake plenum and/or on the emissions sticker located under the hood. Also the 8th digit of the vin number will tell you what engine you have. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

check for a common fuse( Instrument panel)