Top 10 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan Questions & Answers

i guess your brake booster is the problem. try this.... engine not running just pump the brake at least 25 times at the 25 count,just keep your feet on the brake pedal and start the engine. if the brake pedal won't go down even a little... your brake booster is gone. or something with the vacuum.

diconect power for over a minute and try again, if that doesnt work then take out player from car and dismantle top cover of player and take out cds most likely theres more than 1

The mechanism that allows it to retract is broken. Replace the seat belt.

The adjustment screws/nuts should be located either on the top of the headlamp assembly, behind the headlamp assembly, or near the frame rail by the radiator support.

You will have vertical adjustment screws for each independent beam (separate highs and separate lows, but will be same screw if highs and lows are the same bulb). You may also have additional horizontal adjustment screws as well

Park your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same bulb, only do it for the lows)

For Low Beams: If the headlights read VOR, then aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall. If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.

For High Beams (if separate from low beams): Aim the headlight directly at the line you marked on the wall.

no it only calls for like .8 of an hour to chang it. it is very easy to change

You're going to lose some coolant, so have a bucket or other container ready. Follow the upper radiator hose to the point where it's connected to the engine. The hose is clamped to a metal housing which is bolted to the engine. Remove the bolts (not the hose) and lift the housing to expose the thermostat (may require a little prying with a screwdriver or similar tool). Note how the old thermostat is fitted (which end is up), lift it out of the engine, and then remove all traces of gasket from the housing and the engine. Install the new thermostat and gasket, replace the bolts, add coolant as necessary, and you're done.

First question, did you clean the port or passage out or the cyl head where the valve mounts to, when the valve was taken off of the engine? 2nd question, did you replace the Vacuum transducer ( little black round valve, with a vacuum hose fitting) and the valve assy? After these items have been replaced, it usually needs to have the PCM (powertrain control module) reset with a scanner of some type.

P0032 - Oxygen (A/F) Sensor Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
A P0032 DTC (diagnostic trouble code) refers to the O2 sensor (oxygen sensor) located on Bank 1 in front of the catalytic converter. There is also an oxygen sensor behind the converter which is Sensor #2.

This O2 sensor #1 may also be refered to as an air/fuel ratio sensor since on some vehicles it is. The sensor detects the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas compared to the outside air and then vehicle's computer adjusts the air/fuel ratio going into the engine. The sensor is less effective when the exhaust gas temperature is low, so it includes a heater which is activated to help get better readings from the O2 sensor. Essentially this P0032 code means that the resistance of the heater circuit is higher than normal. In some cases, that resistance level must be higher than 10 A to trigger the DTC code.

Note, this code is very similar in nature to P0031, P0051, and P0052

Most likely you'll not notice any symptoms other than the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, a.k.a. the check engine light) will illuminate.

A P0032 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:
A short in the heater circuit in the sensor
A failed O2 sensor heater
Wiring/connectors broken/frayed leading to sensor and/or relay
Failed PCM/ECM


I hope this helps, abd just keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment. Have a nice weekend and thanks for using FixYa.

Jose.

try checking the contacts and connection plugs on the crank and cam sensors

If, when closing the rear hatch, it hits "hard" just before it reaches the closed position; it is very likely that the latch mechanism in the hatch is "stuck" in the latched or closed position already. This is a fairly common occurrence and takes less than a few minutes to fix. Literally.

In order to allow the latch to close around the mating piece on the car body, it will need to be opened first. To open a closed latch mechanism, you will need to simulate opening the hatch from its normal closed position. With the hatch open, look at the latch mechanism. It will align with the bar on the opening of the car. Adjust the hatch / your view to see how the mechanism would be wrapped around the bar on the body - keeping the hatch securely shut. Once you see an opening in the mechanism described above, slip the shaft of a sturdy screwdriver into the opening. Apply a pulling pressure outward - away from the latch on the screwdriver with one hand, and with the other hand (or with the help of an assistant), operate the handle / lock of the hatch the way you did when the hatch was closed. Immediately upon operating the handle / lock, the latch mechanism will unlock, and the pulling pressure of the screwdriver simulates the hatch being pulled away from the bar on the car - and seemingly magically - open allowing the screwdriver to be pulled out.

Next, you'll need to determine and correct the cause of the latch being in the wrong position. It could be something as simple as someone pushing the mechanism shut when the hatch was open; or it may be caused by a poorly lubricated mechanism that is not snapping into a fully open position. When this happens, it is likely the the closing motion of the hatch actually snaps the mechanism shut when it is stuck on the leading edge of the latch - instead of in the "throat" of the latch (where the screwdriver was). A liberal amount of a dry lubricant such as silicone or graphite applied to the mechanism and "worked in" through repeated opening and closing motions of the hatch would be a good start. Resist the temptation of using a wet lubricant like oil, grease, WD-40, etc. as these attract dirt and dust - which can interfere with a nice, fluid movement of the these latching parts. If there is already a lot of dirt, dust or rust, build up on the latch mechanism, it should be cleaned as good as possible before applying lubricant. Use an electrical contact type cleaner as these clean, degrease, dry quickly and leave no residue.

If you are unable to to get the latch to work - have your mechanic or auto servicer look at it. They should be able to quickly diagnose and free the latch. Most will not even bother to charge you to do this - if this is the cause of the problem.

I hope this helps & good luck!