Top 10 1991 Buick Park Avenue Questions & Answers

i just came across this problem myself the other day. i have a 91 buick park avenue that sometimes won't start. i checked several things out like cable connections and coil pack etc. etc. come to find out it was the wiring that came off the coil pack and connects to the crank sensor. the wiring that ran over top of the water pump had finally heated up so bad the coating on the wires had melted and when the engine got hot enough the wires would come in contact and send false signals to the computer not letting it start. after the car cools down and the wires contract it would start. so check the wires from the coil pack to the crank sensor to make sure the wires are not melted together.

You have what is called a height/load leveler switch located on rear axle of vehicle .Check to see if the arm (which moves and kicks on compressor when ride height is low) Is connected and moving freely..You then might want to make sure that the air supply lines atatched to air shocks or air bags are not leaking.. If all checks out fine and you decide to disable compressor you can do this by unplugging harness that connects to compressor...And then you can manually adjust your ride height by adding air to the valve on compressor (it resembles a tire valve stem) this will adjust your your ride height and you can let air out at same location if lower height is desired.. This is a little inconveinient but will bypass automatic system as you requested.

Got one in my shop doing the same thing you and a couple others describe here. I first thought it was the fuel pump, but that seems to not be the case. I am taking the ignition module off today and having it tested at NAPA. THey say they can put it through a couple of drive cycles and see if it cuts off. I'll let you know. THis car I have has already had a crank sensor replaced, but still dies and won't restart. When it dies, I noticed that spark has dropped out, but fuel pressure is still good. Let you know, later, but I think this ign. module is to blame.

124 inch lbs on oil pan...Transmission pan 13 ft lbs.

that is not an idler pully that is the power steering pully if you feel through the holes in the pully you will feel the 13 mm head bolts that hold the pump to the block remove those bolts the pump will drop down and you can then remove the water pump also you have to remove the studs using the inverted torx end on the stud to unscrew it then the mount will come out

Headloght switch or dimmer HI-Lo switch is what I would look at. The power to the headlights goes through the dimmer switch before it gets to the bulbs. No relay!

Did you try the drivers door lock cylinder?

no most likely air vents are clogged

Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours.
To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

There is no drain plug. For the leaks be certain to investigate: sunroof drains, taillight seals, and the trunk seal. Many trunk seals actually channel water into the trunk. New designs are available on many GMs.