I have a 2005 silverado crew cab. The automatic door locks will not lock the back doors. The doors lock and unlock when you shift in and out of park and the button will unlock the doors. Why will they not lock? The front doors work fine.
i work at a chevy dealership,just had the same problem my fix was to replace the power door lock relay located on drivers side interior fuse block
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
I have not had an accident. The service airbag light has come on & stays on. I disconnected the battery,but the light is still on.
I have a 2007 chevrolet silverado and my service airbag light came on. I was out camping with the sterio going and ran the batt low but their was enough juice to restart after about 10 min. On the way home the service light stayed on and i just fixed the problem which was a fuse under the hood in the main fuse pannel. It is very common due to low voltage on start up to blow a 15 amp fuse.
Posted on Aug 10, 2010
please help fix it
I had this problem myself and come to find out it was a blown fuse which also controls the outside temp display and compass built into the rear view mirror. Check in your fuse box located under the hood on the driver side, open the big black box cover and locate the airbag fuse. Pull it out and check to see if it is burnt. Replace it if necessary.
Hope this helps you
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
there is no power to my rear view mirror with Temp and compass. Is there a fuse for this? I can't find it in the manual
My airbag light will not cut off and my temp and compass on my rearview mirror cut off the same time it went out too... I changed the fuse because it was blown... it works for a couple of days and then cuts back off... I took it to the dealership and they did a dianogstic check and can't find the problem
Posted on May 25, 2009
2005 silverado front bumper diagram.
Here is an exploded view
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
04/05 chevy suburban/avalanche voltmeter reading varies wildly usually at 19+ v and tach stays between 4000-6000
Check the wire harness to your alternator and get a proper voltage reading at the battery with a volt meter when the engine is running. With the engine not running you should have a reading of 12.0 to 12.5 Volts and with the engine running the voltage at the battery terminal should be at 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Do this reading with out anything on, and then turn everything on like your head lights and blower fan on high. The voltage should not drop under 13.5 volts. If your having low or high voltage reading, the voltage regulator has gone bad. With a high reading, there is a short in the system somewhere causing the alternator to put out extra voltage which is bad for the whole electrical system like the ECM and fuel pump causing them to fail also due to the high voltage. A bad battery with a short in the cells it self can also create this problem, you may need to just replace the battery to fix the problem, most parts store can test the alternator and battery for you free of charge like Auto Zone or Parts Source to determine if it's just the battery, but most likely your battery will also have gone bad due to the extra voltage in the system. The extra voltage will over heat the battery acid causing it to slowly dry out and the elector plates in the battery warp and short each other out causing the spike in the voltage reading and the battery drains it self in a few days or hours, depending on how bad the short is in the battery. As for the Tech reading between 4000 to 6000, is related to the extra voltage in the system and have the Parts store like Auto Zone pull any DTC codes that can check to see if it's a bad crank or cam shaft sensor that is causing the bad reading. Start with the simple and work in the battery and alternator.
The
voltage regulator controls or regulates the alternator's output. Think
of it as the brains of the charging system. It senses how much voltage
is needed by your vehicle, then modifies the field current within the
alternator so it puts out just the right amount of current. Too little
current can allow the battery to run down while too much can damage it
and other electrical and electronic components. When the regulator fails,
the charging system usually ceases to function -- except in cases where
the nature of the failure causes the alternator to run wild and overcharge
the battery. In any event, the only cure for a dead or defective regulator
is replacement.
Most regulators have been mounted in or on
the alternator itself. This was done by the vehicle manufacturers to simplify
wiring and assembly. It was also made possible by advances in electronics
that allowed the regulator to be reduced in size to a small chip.
Unfortunately,
internally regulated alternators are packaged as a unit -- which means
that if either component fails (alternator or regulator) both must be
replaced. This is because internal regulators are not available separately
(at least not to the general public or the typical service facility).
Electrical shops and remanufacturers who rebuild alternators can get them
and can replace the regulator separately if that's all that's wrong with
the unit -- but they'll usually charge you the same as if you bought a
rebuilt alternator.
The
truth is, the high cost of labor today has made it impractical for most
service facilities to fool around trying to rebuild or repair components
like alternators, starter, fuel injectors front-wheel CV joints, transmissions
and even engines. It's faster, easier and usually cheaper to simply replace
the old unit with a new or remanufactured one than to try to overhaul
or fix it. Besides, most new and remanufactured parts come with a guarantee. Good luck and hope this helps you determine what's causing the over chairing, keep me posted.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
I was wondering if someone could tell me the firing order on a 05 5.3L chevy. I really need to know if you are standing in front of the engine what cylinders are what. Thanks
For the 5.3L V8:
Firing Order:
1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3
Cylinders:
....(back)
8...........7
6...........5
4...........3
2...........1
....(front)
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!
Posted on Mar 17, 2010
i need to know the location of the egr valve on a 2005 chevy silverado 4.3 litre v6 its not located where i though it was (next to the thermostat i need to know what other locations could it be at
Hi Jim, The Exhaust Gas Recycle valve is usually mounted on a tappet cover and is connected to the the intake manifold. It has the function of recycling the fumes from the sump and burning them in the combustion chamber. Regards John
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
My chevy 2005 had less than 43000 mi an one day my odometer displayed error, the only info that remained is the 1511 engine hours. The previous weeks I changed the Abs system on driver's side.
Hi, this is a pretty common problem on these Silverado instrument clusters. We can definitly repair that for you. Click here to learn more about these Silverado instrument cluster problems: Dr Speedometer Instrument Cluster Repair Speedometer Repair Guage...
Posted on Nov 11, 2014
driver information center keeps scrolling languages and won't stop or reset with buttons as indicated in manual with any of the buttons
Hi, this is a pretty common problem on these Silverado instrument clusters. We can repair that for you, click here to learn more about these silverado instrument cluster problems: Dr Speedometer Instrument Cluster Repair Speedometer Repair Guage...
Posted on Nov 07, 2014
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