20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 10 Questions & Answers

starter selenoid. you can replace the selenoid on the starter. it is what conects the power to the starter motor. when the selenoid gets wore out it takes a couple clicks to get good contact.

Most of the vortecs that i have worked on have hydraulic roller lifters, but i cant say for certain that your engine does, however i am sure that it has hydraulic lifters and they can be checked by trying to push them down in the center where the pushrods contact, if they compress easily the lifter is bad, If they are roller lifters, check for any wear on the roller and how well they turn, it is ok to have some side to side movement on the pin but any up/down movement on the roller is bad. If the are non-roller lifters check for wear, if the lifter looks "dished" or "concaved" rather than having flat surface replace the lifter.

Most likely the timing has jumped,or the cam sensor is bad.

Vacuum leak or bad IAC or Map sensor.

pull the fuse for t.sig if the light go's out put fuse back
and locate T sig harness at base of collum and use
a test light to check for power coming out of the
switch with everything off there should be no pwr.
you will have 1 wire with a constant 12v for the
emegency flasher if you have pwr out in any others
the switch is bad. also pull the horn fuse to avoid
any false reads. hope this helps good luck

heater core plugged up? Get engine up to normal temp, put your hand on both heater hoses at firewall, if one is hot and one is not its the heater core. If both are hot the blend door under the dash is not changing to hot

First did you clear all the fault codes after your repairs? The reason I ask is po131 is bank one oxygen sensor, po174 is engine lean from faulty oxygen sensor, and po171 is engine lean condition, possibly from vacuum leak (intake manifold gasket?), pcv valve,etc. To check for vacuum leak at intake, start engine and gently spray starting fluid around intake gasket. If rpm raise slightly while doing this then there is a vacuum leak(stay away from air filter intake and housing though), and the gasket will need to be replaced again.

These trucks are critical on fuel pressure. Spray some brake cleaner to see if it starts. If it does then the fuel pump is weak and needs to be replaced.
These trucks do not use a timing light. It takes a scanner to cam sync them to the correct timing. If it was off you would of set a code for it and it would of ran like it had a mis. You may have an ignition module issue that is causing all of this but without diagnostic equipment its all a guess.

it is under the dash on the upper part of the brake pedal, unplug the wire connector and the swich pops off

most likely on the firewall comes out of fuel pump relay harness only has power while running or for two seconds when ign key is first turned on

no, the 97 uses a 4L60E which is controlled differently through the computer. Also, many of the electrical connectors will be different.

You will have to drop the tank to replace it. Sometimes its easier to remove the bed, especially if the tank has fuel in it.

remove glove box, look on top of heater box in recessed portion. You will see a muti-wire plug facing up. This is the blower resistor. Check for burnt connections by removing plug (common problem). Blower high speed relay located above blower motor (also behind glove box). Check for burnt connections. Repair harness available through G.M. dealer.

check the basics timing, air, and, fuel . these trucks are prone to intake gasket problems buy a can of 2+2 carb spray and spray around the intake area notice if the idle rises if so vacuum leak repair and re check next fuel pressure is a common cause check fuel filter and the pressure let me know how it goes thanks

Hello there:
If you look at your owners manual it will tell you that it is recommended that you only use the 89 or greater octane fuel and any thing below this can damage the engine i have the same truck and i have dome a lot of testing with the different fuels and they are right if i spend the extra 5 or 6 cents to get the good fuel i get better fuel mileage along with following the a regular tuneup intervals and also keeping the tires properly inflated helps out a lot ok So try these easy steps and you will find out that you will start getting better mileage

Check the fuse if that has not been done, if the fuse is good then give the wiper motor a light tap where the wire harness connects too. The circuit board on the electric motor assembly where the wire harness connects too is know to crack and will need to be re soldered or replace. The replacement part can be bought at Auto Zone for around $15.00 i believe or you can just re solder if you can and save your self the money for another day. The only other place would be the wiper switch it self may need to be replaced, but if there is no low or hi working on the wipers. I'm going to lean towards the wiper motor circuit where the harness clips to. Good luck and hope you get the wipers working again soon.

btsi solenoid on right side of steering column about halfway up column unplug and check green wire with test lamp while depressing brake pedal lamp should turn on and off if not replace brake lamp switch or check wiring if test lamp lights replace btsi solenoid

Just change the fuel filter, and take the air filter off the carburetor. Let somebody start your engine, and choke the carburetor with the palm of your hand and
open a little and close again. Observe if your car tend to start Also find if some gas gets into your hand. If it is, then, the fuel system is okey. And it still does not start, check the plugs for sparks. No sparks, check
your ignition coil. It may need replacement. After
everything is checked, start your engine..

One solution is to get a "universal" relay block (connector) and wire it to the fuel pump wires on the back of the existing relay block. You can mount them virtually anywhere you want. These are readily available at most parts stores. They sell them for people that want to add flood and/or headlamps to their 4X4's.

Another solution is to get an OEM relay block out of the salvage yard.