20 Most Recent 2001 Dodge Dakota - Page 2 Questions & Answers

either repair or replace the transmission...sounds like the sensor went out

Hello shoretex...Yes sir you can repair this yourself...
p0442 is medium leak detected ...p0456 is small leak....and p0440 is a general evap system failure.. evap codes are a common thing. gas caps are an inexpensive place to start. There are two types of evap hoses on the Dodge... hard plastic and soft rubber.... before you replace parts check the soft rubber first at the evap cans and pump located about a foot in front of the gas tank fill pipe on trucks located next to the transfer case or right behind the trans on the driver side. hard plastic lines will brake or rub through...check spots where lines come in contact with anything. this is a common thing with older trucks...hair line cracks will kick a p0442 code, and a p0445 code...When you find a leak, repair it, and rescan...sometimes there are several leaks, continue with inspection and repairs until you get it all fixed up.... Remember..start at simple and work from there...
i will post the evap. system in more detail to help you troubleshoot the problem.
EVAP System: The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control system used on all vehicles is the charcoal canister storage method. This method transfers fuel vapor from the fuel tank to an activated carbon (charcoal) storage device (canister) to hold the vapors when the vehicle is not operating. When the engine is operating, the fuel vapor is purged from the carbon element by intake air flow and consumed in the normal combustion process. The evaporative system includes the following components: *Fuel tank *Evaporative emission canister vent solenoid *Fuel tank pressure sensor *Fuel pipes and hoses *Vapor lines *Fuel cap *Evaporative emission canister *Purge lines *Purge valve solenoid EVAP System Operation: The EVAP purge solenoid valve allows manifold vacuum to purge the canister. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies a ground to energize the EVAP purge solenoid valve (purge on). The EVAP purge solenoid control is Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) or turned on and off several times a second. The EVAP canister purge PWM duty cycle varies according to the operating conditions determined by the mass air flow, the fuel trim, the engine coolant temperature, and the intake air temperature. For certain EVAP tests, the diagnostic will be disabled if the TP angle increases to above 75% . The evaporative leak detection diagnostic strategy is based on applying vacuum to the EVAP system and monitoring for vacuum decay. The fuel level sensor input to the PCM is used to determine if the fuel level in the tank is correct to run the EVAP diagnostic tests. To ensure sufficient volume in the tank to begin the various diagnostic tests, the fuel level must be between 15% and 85% . The PCM monitors the fuel tank pressure/vacuum level via the fuel tank pressure sensor input. Results of Incorrect Operation: Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can be caused by the following: *Malfunctioning purge solenoid. *Damaged canister. *Hoses/lines split, cracked and/or not connected properly. Evidence of fuel loss or fuel vapor odor can be caused by the following: *Liquid fuel leaking from the fuel lines *Cracked or damaged canister *Inoperative canister control valve Vacuum hoses that are: *Disconnected *Mis-routed *Kinked *Deteriorated *Damaged The evaporative leak detection diagnostic strategy is based on applying vacuum to the EVAP system and monitoring vacuum decay. The PCM monitors vacuum level via the fuel tank pressure sensor input. At an appropriate time, the EVAP purge solenoid and the EVAP vent solenoid are turned on, allowing engine vacuum to draw a small vacuum on the entire evaporative emission system. After the desired vacuum level has been achieved, the EVAP purge solenoid is turned off, sealing the system. A leak is detected by monitoring for a decrease in vacuum level over a given time period, all other variables remaining constant. A small leak in the system causes DTC P0442 to be set. If the desired vacuum level cannot be achieved in the test described above, a large leak or a faulty EVAP purge solenoid is indicated. This can be caused by the following conditions: *Disconnected or faulty fuel tank pressure sensor. *Missing or faulty fuel cap. *Disconnected, damaged, pinched, or blocked EVAP purge line. *Disconnected or damaged EVAP vent hose. *Disconnected, damaged, pinched, or blocked fuel tank vapor line. *Disconnected or faulty EVAP canister solenoid. *Disconnected or faulty EVAP vent solenoid. *Open ignition feed circuit to the EVAP vent or purge solenoid. *Damaged EVAP canister. Any of the above conditions sets DTC P0440. A restricted or blocked EVAP canister vent path is detected by drawing vacuum into the EVAP system. The PCM turns off the EVAP vent solenoid and the EVAP purge solenoid (EVAP vent solenoid Open, EVAP purge PWM 0% ). The PCM monitors the fuel tank pressure sensor input. With the EVAP vent solenoid open, any vacuum in the system should decrease quickly unless the vent is blocked. A blockage is caused by the following conditions: *Faulty EVAP vent solenoid (stuck closed). *Plugged, kinked, or pinched vent hose. *Shorted EVAP vent solenoid driver circuit. *Plugged evaporative canister.

Good luck shoretex, hope this helps...please take time to rate me a fixya.

Anybody know where this clip goes? 2002 dodge Dakota drum brakes. Fell out can’t find where it goes.

Hope this helps you ??

LOOK IN GLOVE COMPARTMENT FOR OWNER MANUAL.IT HAS ALL FUSES AND RELAYS LOCATION.

Sounds as if you may have a vacuum leak; possibly a dirty/sticking idle air control valve, or dirty/sticking EGR valve. Could possibly be clogged converter or muffler as well.

This could be he Idle Control Valve and is around 50 dollars and a easy fix. Also try STP 5 in 1 fuel cleaner for a couple of tanks if you are using the cheap gas

Hello Mac Davis, My Dodge (Chrysler, Plymouth) days significantly pre-date your 2001... although in trouble shooting "modern" Dodge switches ... I have noticed there are a huge number of "SWITCHES" available... Meaning you are VERY likely on the RIGHT TRACK.. If you are NOT comfortable taking YOUR switch apart... BUY a (practice) DONOR switch from eBay and examine/dismantle... play, test... (etc.) to your heart's content... See BELOW (circuit drawings) Totally FREE Circuit Drawings & Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) are available on the BBB Industries website... Registration is required... (These are REAL documents)... BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products The only problem... Every time you return from the DRAWINGS you are in the Technical Service Bulletins... and must switch back to "WIRING"... but FREE... helps. I hope I have. Carnac the Magnificent

Have you tried blowing on the aera where the key goes into with a hair dryer if this solves the issue maybe think about replacing it at your earliest convenience, just a thought....

brake switch not releasing the shift lock

There is an issue where the oxygen sensor that is after the catalytic converter can short out internally in the heater circuit and cause a voltage to feed back into the transmission. This in turn can cause the error that you are describing. The best this and cheapest thing to do is replace the sensor and see if the code comes back. If it does then you are looking at a possible transmission issue.

The shift Solenoid by be bad the will not unlock the shifter. If you really need to get going ..You can physically override the shifter. Read your manual and it will tell you how to do it. In the mean time check all your fuses. There are many plastic parts that can crack split or come apart on some solenoids.

What color wire was loose ? VI/YL - Violet with yellow trace . A no bus message means the instrument cluster lost communication with the serial data network . Do you know what that is ? Gauge info. comes from other computers on the vehicle through the data bus. If a module (computer ) looes connection some how , faultly module , wiring problem etc... this message will show an more then likely a DTC - diagnostic trouble code will set in one of the modules on the vehicle . Don't know how much you know about this stuff , but you can not go to a auto part's store an have it check for code's . The tool they use doesn't check all the computers on the vehicle . The data bus on your vehicle is the PCI bus. 006 Chrysler PCI Communications http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2010/2010-05/2010_5_60.pdf Reading as much as you can about this an finding wiring diagrams to test the bus wiring plus having the modules checked for communication network code's is the way to find a fix . Most of the time it is a loose connection that causes this problem .

While driving, the Idle air control valve (IAC) fully retracts and you control airflow with the gas pedal. When you come to a stop the computer extends the IAC to let air bypass the throttle plate and maintain idle speed. If the IAC is sticking it sometimes cannot compensate fast enough to avoid a stall. The problem is aggravated by the Air conditioner clutch cycling on while stopping. You don't mention the check engine light so not likely a sensor. If you have a OBDII scanner with live data available you can check the Throttle position sensor easily. You are looking for a smooth change through the range as you press and release the gas pedal. Or use a voltmeter to see the TPS. Measure resistance with engine off or voltage (0 to 5 volts) with ignition on. It should move smoothly through the range. Another easy test. Park brake on, in gear (if an automatic transmission) at idle, load the engine by turning the steering quickly to the end and see how quickly the IAC recovers. Clean or replace IAC and while in there clean the carbon off of the edges of the throttle plate.

What Steve said plus, double check your cabin air filter to make sure it's not clogged and forcing the motor to draw more amps. Also, perform a current draw test on the motor to make sure it's not drawing more amps...that'll burn up the connector

Without a scan tool there's not much else you can do. You really need to see if the computer is getting good cam and crank signals. Also need to look at engine coolant temp and MAF readings

If you are referring to the switch on the top of the accumulator (firewall on passenger side), that is the a/c low pressure switch. It prevents the a/c compressor from engaging (through the PCM) if the pressure in the system is too low. It should have two wires, a black one that goes to ground, and a brown one that goes to pin 22 of connector 3 on the PCM.

Not saying this is your problem but I had a ram 1500 5.9l gas do the same thing would start and die as soon as I put it in drive but would run fine in reverse after doing all kinds of trans testing it ended up being the crank sensor still doesn't make sense to me but it would back fire and carry on in drive changed sensor and runs great and better fuel mileage

is this your pump ? has differnt engings water pump with fan and one with out.