2005 GMC Savana - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The DRL (daytime running lights) module on a 2000 Savannah van is typically located under the hood, near the front of the vehicle. It may be mounted to the inner fender, the firewall, or another nearby location. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove a panel or access cover in order to locate the DRL module. To find the DRL module, you may want to consult the owner's manual for your vehicle, as it should have detailed information on the location of various components. You can also try searching online for more specific information about the location of the DRL module on your particular model of Savannah van. If you are unable to locate the DRL module, or if you are unsure of how to access it, you may want to consider seeking the assistance of a mechanic or automotive technician.

Sounds like a ABS problem . Have it diagnosed at a qualified repair shop.

Lite green wire at the back-up lights . Were are you trying access this circuit from ? At the back up lights them selfs or inside the vehicle ? The power comes from the BCM -body control module . connector 5 pin F ! The camera i'm guessing mounts where ? inside in the back or on the bumper ? And the part that shows the picture , screen up on the dash or near ? What needs power and where ? Again , i'm guessing the screen up near the dash ! The BCM is located Lower right side of the I/P . Connector 5 is black and has 6 pin cavitys ! And the wire color is L-green

run the fault codes check for problem position sensors--wires check for problem ignition control module

don't know this van specifically, but some things to check, make sure cabin filter is replaced or clean, you didn't say if the blower itself works, if not, correct or replace. Check the hoses going to the heater core, if hot water is flowing thru the core, both hoses should be hot. Check the heater controls to make sure doors in the system are opening closing as they should, you may just be drawing in cold air and not going thru the heater core.

You have the solenoid exciter wire touch the bat terminal on the starter. You need to loosen the cable stud and turn and make sure it is not hitting the smaller terminal. the small wire should be going to the S post or terminal

Check that the bulbs actually work, with an external power supply.

I would make an assumption as it is the wiper motor going bad. Most any I have seen the motor runs in a constant 360 degree revolution and not back and forth. The back and forth motion comes from the linkages under the plastic cowl in front of the windshield.

check on the heater hoses there might be a heater control valve in one. I had one get stuck on an astro van.

No power after the ignition ??Does the engine crank ?If not, have you tried cranking it in neutral ?Do you have spark to the plugs ?

it can be hard to find depending on engine some are prone to leak in certain areas. oil coolers,head gaskets, cracks, gaskets on a front cover or intake manifold. some times pulling oil pan adding florescent dye to coolant and pressurize system and watch for leak to show up some are only found after engine is torn apart and magnetic particle checked.because they only leak when hot.

What is the temp of your thermostat in other words how hot does motor have to be before it opens up and cools motor. Most cars and trucks have an 180 degree temp before it will open up and cool motor check with autoparts store for correct temp thermostat or put one slightly higher temp on it. Also is it thermo fan clutch or electric fan that might also be part of problem

check the relays, fusses, bad wire, when you turn on the ac can you hear the clutches clicking on the compressor if so your low on freion.

AIR CONDITIONING REFRIGERANT
Front A/C 1.8 lbs (0.81 kg) Front and Rear A/C 3.1 lbs (1.41 kg)
Air Conditioning Refrigerant R134a P/N 12356150 U.S. (10953485 Canada)

This indicates a failure in the antitheft system. Go to this link. Should have all the info you need to knowand solutions toohttp://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Drivers side of engine compartment under altenator

here you go.

follow the bottom radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. where it connects is the thermostat housing which is secured by 2, 10mm headed bolts. remove the 2 bolts and the thermostat and seal are behind it. replace the thermostat and seal, secure housing with the 2 bolts, fill with coolant, and you are done it is a very quick and easy job probably easiest from under the vehicle

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shuting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix...

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. For a list of cars effected by this problem. See the NEWROCKIES link on the right side of their page......... They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks.
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081
----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey **** system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites

It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
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most gmc vehicles install the fuel filter under the truck in front of the rear wheel well.