20 Most Recent 1991 Nissan 300ZX - Page 5 Questions & Answers

check fuses an fuseable links then switch

i had same thing and my cataletic converter was plugged. red hot . after it cooled i could start it and only crawl home.and check timing belt.and battery cablesneed to be clean and vasilene for good connection no corrosion ,no green on any connections. if.check engine lite on do self diagnostic. info on internet nissan ecm codes

No, that is not true, you can only use one from another 300ZX, 1990-91 for a manual transmission, 1990-93 for an automatic. Also you have to get the one for if you have twin turbo, or one if you don't.

safty netural switch may be unpluged or bad will not start

spray some starter fluid in the intake and then see if it will start and die.
this will tell you if its igintion or fuel problem.

i bet the fuel pump went out.

not quite sure of the question, but try turning the dimmer switch

PROBLEM COULD BE IN THE DOWN SHIFT SOLENOID.

have u checked the switch is not stuck

Oh this is fun...

I have a 1993 300ZX N/A and have had two injectors go out on me at different times. This is an expensive fix for two reasons; 1) the injector. 2) the installation process.

If you're lucky you can find a shop or eBay seller with new or reconditioned injectors at an affordable price. $150~$275/injector is steep. Worse is the cost of removal and installation since the upper plenum and fuel rails must be removed. This is a design flaw by Nissan since you can see both screws to remove the injectors, but one is partially covered by the aliminum upper plenum (big silver colored aluminum air intake over the block). There are some sites that will talk about drilling or filing the plenum to allow access to the second screw, but this is highly frowned upon and you run the risk of putting a hole in the plenum. Best to leave this as-is.

It's cost effective to replace these yourself if you're handy with a wrench and a screwdriver. the cost for a shop to do this job is between $600 and $1000 for one injector. Most of the cost is the labor to remove and replace the plenum and fuel rails.

If you want to do this yourself, start with using a voltmeter and check each injector to find the bad one. Set the voltmeter to Ohms, disconnect the electrical from the injectors, and check the resistance between the contacts of each injector. They should read between 10 and 18 Ohms. Here's how:
http://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_injector.htm

Here's a step by step process for replacement:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_install_fuel_injectors_in_Nissan_300_ZX

Like I said, I paid for this twice and never again. Too much money for such a small part that I can do myself in my spare time.

Hope this helps!

Check exhaust for any coolant burning (white smoke) ALSO check the coolant bottle for exhause gases (bubbles) the exhuast gas is very hot and makes the coolant temp rise. Check coolant level. Check the coolant temperature sensor, it could be the fault.

The speed control sensor is disconnected it is located on the transmission. I think someone did not connect a harness or it came loose or it is damaged

if car has a oil cooler that uses coolant to lower oil temp. check that, if not you might want to get a coolant psi tester and try locating leak that way. but my expierence is that a head gasket problems cause this also if block was bored and machined that could also be the issue.

Go to Walmart. They will check your battery for free. If it is bad they sell decent batteries at a good price. They are also located everywhere so if you have a problem with your battery in the future you can have it replaced under warranty

Should be able to pick one up at your local parts store.

sounds like a vacuum leak.... if you have an aftermarket boost gauge its supposed to be -20in for the idle. for not boosting you could be in saftey mode where the computer severly limits all of the engine functions. do you have a check engine light? if so under the passenger floorboard, remove the wood from under the carpet to expose your ecu turn the ignition to the on position but do not start the car then with a small screwdriver(flathead) turn the knob on the side of the ecu clockwise all the way for 2 seconds and then back. your ecu is now in diagnostic mode. the little led above the knob will now be flasshing. count the flasshes. it will be slow flashes followed by fast flasshes. ex: 4 slow flashes followed by 2 fast flashes = code 42. a code 55 means all is fine. there are numerous code sheets for the z32 on the internet and easy to find. i hope this helps and good luck. let me know what code you get if any and ill try to help more from there.

the timing can be adjusted via the crank angle sensor... under the hood on the upper right side of the engine there is a metal piece with a mitsubishi symbol on it. it has 3 screws visible and a plug. undo the screws and depending on where it is now twist it so that it is slightly to the left of center about 1.5millimeters off center. the crank angle sensor is not a way to majorly adjust the timing just minor adjustments. i assume the car is running now so its probably severely advanced you can concievably fiddle with it to get the smoothest idle out of the car. between 650 and 800 is good

ptu (power transistor unit)

http://www.mdsmarthome.com/z/Z%20Tech/Z%20Tech%20PDF's/PTU%20Repair.pdf

the series 1 ptu goes out really often. you can repair it or buy a new one.

had the same problem with mine replaced the ptu and worked like new.

the ptu is on the passenger side timing cover with two connectors going to it.

first jack up car then look on the passenger side of the car to find the alternator. there is a bracket right next to the crank pully going to the alternator. it is only one bolt. undo it. there is i believe a 15 mill bolt on top of the alternator with a lock nut on the back almost out of reach from the bottom. undo the bolt and the alternator will drop down into your hands. there is the tensioner bolt to tighten the belt on the bottom of the alternator you can loosen it up to make things easier on you. when the alternator is loose pull out gently as there is one clip connection and two ground bolts on the back of the unit itslef. undo all of these and slide your alt out the front. it may be easier to remove the clutch fan on the water pump pully first. (4 nuts)