20 Most Recent 1991 Nissan 300ZX - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Nothing more special than a basic metric socket set, a good size C-clamp, and maybe a screwdriver. Remove the wheel and unbolt the caliper from the hub (two bolts on the backside, I believe 17mm). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Slide the caliper off the rotor and remove the outer pad. Use the C-clamp against the inner pad to compress the pistons back into the caliper to provide clearance for the new, thicker pads to clear the rotor. Do the same for the outer pistons. Install the new pads, remount the caliper, and put the wheel back on. Replace the fluid cap, pump up the brake pedal for pressure, then take it out and bed the pads in with several back to back stops from 30mph with steady, even pressure on the pedal. You'll be good to go at that point.

It could simply be that the EGR valve is clogged. You could try doing a Seafoam treatment on the vacuum system to see if that can free up the EGR (you can get the Seafoam at AutoZone or any other parts store, and it's cheap). You'd need to find a vacuum line you can easily remove, and feel suction into the engine from. Pour some Seafoam into a bowl (maybe 1/3 of the bottle), and use a small piece of vinyl hose to get it into the engine. Put the hose into the vacuum nipple, seal around it with tape, and dip the other end into the bowl. Rev the engine as needed to allow the engine to **** up the fluid. You may need to rev it up during the first couple minutes following the ingestion of the Seafoam - the car will blow black smoke out of the tailpipes and may stumble and run rough. This will let up as the engine burns off the excess carbon inside, and afterward your car should run quite a bit better. Put the vacuum line back on and you're good to go.

open the door or boot with the key
this earths the immobilizer out and will restart the alarm

When you put the car in "on" position, do you see you check engine light on? If not, you may have a malfunctioning ECM. Check under the pass. seat for the ECM. When you pull the seat, on the side of the ECM you'll see 2 lights. One green on and a red one. Make sure both lights are on. This will tell you if the ECM is getting power. If it isn't, under the pass side carpet is a metal cover that protects the wiring harness to the ECM. Cut away wrap and look for any breaks in the BLACK wires. These are your grounds. The factory splices like to come apart. If you do have power to ECM, Check ignition module, crank, or cam sensors.

Assuming manual trans:
If all other gears work well, it could be the reverse idler gear or syncho gears are out of whack. In any "case", the problem is in the case of the gearbox.

connect it to a scanner

make sure it is not a worn switch.

Make your own. Take what's left of the originals to an auto parts store and find the right diameter hoses. Cut them to fit. Ensure the hoses are for the correct function - don't use coolant hose for oil-containing hoses, etc. Cheers, Td

different airflow meter calibrations,do you have the z32 airflow meter installed?

you fried the can bus

cold starting is assisted by the use of a choke or fuel enriching device if it has carby , adjust the automatic choke device if it has injectors replace the ambient temp sensor

Sounds like the clutch friction plate is "stuck" to the flywheel. This can happen if its not been used for some time. You may find some useful information on Youtube The usual procedure is to move the car to a safe location, so no problem if the car moves forward.Raise the back of the car with a trolley jack.. Start the engine in gear and with the handbrake off and then let the jack down.

Check fuel line for leak,

There is a switch on the door frame that triggers a response when the door is ajar, These switches can loose adjustment, break or the wire can come off the back inside.

Faulty turbo timer

It's inside your fuel tank. You'll probably have to drop the tank to access it. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

tis is why you should own a small multimeter. trace the batt cable down from the post, check for voltage. you need to check from point to point for the voltage and continuity. the cable could look good and then when you peel back an inch of cover from the copper you see lots of green corrosion on that copper. take it back to the basics and check for continuity and the amount of voltage/ if it goes thru relays then check the relays.