20 Most Recent 1991 Nissan 300ZX - Page 3 Questions & Answers

put a funnel in the gas nozzle have someone turn ignition on to almost start, but don't. You should hear pump running before you start your van if you don't hear the pump you know you have a defective pump if you hear the pump purchase a fuel filter try that if not possibly could the relay not sure where its at but could finds out for you.good luck

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Hi,

My name is Ben and I'm your guru, i.e., mentor, an influential teacher or popular expert: a management guru. - origin from Sanskrit, 'weighty, grave' for today. By the way, I used to own a 300ZX and let my son take it off to college. End of car and story.

As you evaluate my advise.solutions and suggestions, there are a few things you must keep in mind:

• I did not diagnose your problem and am therefore only able to evaluate what you tell me. For example, if you ask me a fuse location, that doesn't mean that I can tell you the reason why the fuse blew. I can only react to the information that you provide. So please judge my suggestions accordingly.
• A thorough diagnostic approach involves the use of technical equipment, such as voltage meters. scanning equipment and other sophisticated devices. Diagnostic tools can be borrowed from AutoZone for FREE:
• Lastly, fixing one problem can very easily reveal a problem with something that you might consider unrelated. If that happens, you might want to view me as being incompetent.

Subject: Engine starts, cuts off, and will not restart.

Customer's exact description: the car starts, turn it off, restart it won't start

Discussion: The customer doesn't indicate any diagnostic tests to date. A Nissan dealer will charge $100-$200 to perform a diagnostic scan. However, AutoZone will provide a thorough scan for FREE. All of the suggestions cited below will require the use of a code scanner or a code reader.

This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system or one of the system sensors that is causing the on-board computer to make adjustments as best it can. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter, a bad fuel pressure regulator or water in the fuel tank. Anyone who tells you that a modern vehicle can be diagnosed without a scanner with the problems you have set forth is merely guessing. You car has a computer and memory and probably knows exactly what the problem is. That on-board computer is just waiting for you to ask, "What's wrong".

This is where you'll start.

Difficulty:
Moderately Challenging (AutoZone will loan you the instrumentation FREE of charge)

Instructions

1. Check the Nissan fuel delivery system if the engine starts running rough, stalls out in traffic or won't start at all.
2. Relieve system pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable and loosen the gas cap to let pressure drain from the system. Attach a dual tube pressure gauge to the test port and drain fuel into an approved container.
3. Disconnect the fuel pressure sensor vacuum hose. Check for fuel in the line. If there is fuel present in the line, the fuel delivery problem is likely caused by a faulty fuel pump pressure regulator. If there is no fuel in the line, reattach the vacuum hose and continue with the fuel delivery diagnostic.
4. Twist off the fuel pressure test port cap and attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure valve if one is not already connected. Reconnect the negative battery cable and turn the key to the first position. Do not start the engine.
5. Check the pressure gauge. It needs to register between 45 and 48 psi. Start the engine and let it idle. Check the gauge again. It needs to register approximately 46 psi. Leave the engine on and remove the vacuum hose. Check the gauge one last time. It needs to register approximately 50 psi. Pressure that's too high indicates a malfunctioning pressure regulator. Low pressure indicates a clogged fuel filter or a broken fuel pump that needs to be replaced.
6. Cut the engine off, relieve system pressure again and remove the negative battery cable.
7. Clean the fuel filter inlet with compressed air to remove any dirt that might come loose and contaminate the fuel supply as you remove the fuel filter. Pull the filter out at the male filter fitting and disconnect the remaining connections to the filter. Remove the filter.
8. Examine the filter for clogs and replace it if necessary. If there are no clogs, the fuel delivery problem is probably caused by a breakdown in the fuel pump itself.

DO NOT RUN OUT AND A NEW FUEL PUMP YET! This was only the opening act.


First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

All of the above systems are monitored by GM Powertrain Module (a.k.a. on-board computer). A diagnostic scan retrieves any inform related to the malfunctioning parts and tells you precisely what is wrong.

I'm personally in the process of restorning a 1994 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi and it requires the use of a special diagnostic tool called a GM Tech1 and it costs $700 used. Your car can use the standard OBD-II scanner. Because of the high tech devices installed by the Pontiac Division, parts replacement can be difficult Pontiac Service Manual. With the demise of Pontiac, you can pick up a service manual on eBay for under $50.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but remember that AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures therefore apply to most cars.

Step 1: Remember that anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP (Evaporative Emission Control System) code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, e.g.,if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

I know that the above is wordy but I wanted to do more than just tell you that your problem is complex.

All the best,

Ben

Must be a hole in the heater radiator

I have a same problem. need help

It seems you have a dead or dying battery. Check the electrolyte SG or have it checked at a battery center.

follow the positive cable to the silonide and that is connected to the starter it is the only part that will be going into the transmission by the fly wheel

Check the brake booster. Start the car and then switch it of and the brake should be normal. The diaphargm inside might be broken or there is a air leak somwhere.

Code 45 is a fuel Injector leak
detected.

Un bolt the master cylinder but don;t disconnect the brake lines move to the front unbolt the 4 bolts holding the booster cortrol unit disconnect the main vacuum hose from booster unit take out replace with new one or junk yard unit there a lot cheaper and reinstall in reverse

replace it. they all go bad at some point and ****** timing on all nissan 91 up. its a paint to change under the manifold and around $250 new. you can bypass it by putting a 400ohm resistor inline out to ecu and the car will start up good always and run great with good gas milage. beware if you ping run bad gas or preignite it wont correspond to safety and hurt your engine. so run 93 octane like you should be in the first place with that car and youll be fine

HOME DEPOT YOUR AT LOCK SMITH COMPANY

Hi, was the problem there before the timing belt was replaced? I'm wondering if the valve timing is advanced by a notch.

Either way ,is a lot of work. First thing I would try is a little bit longer bolt. Take a screw driver and push into the stripped hole to determine how long you can go.Even 1/4 inch more threads might be enough to hold starter secure. A little sealer on threads would be good.. If all that fails ,try to oversize the bolt and retap.Make sure the oversize bolt will go through the starter. I have had good success with J B WELD [brand] to drill and retap. Just make sure the surface is clean

When was the last catalytic converter change?
218,000 on a Z is impressive.
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I will start from the air filter intake end and inspect blockage.
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I use Lucas fuel system cleaner + Chevron gas to rule out clogged injector.
Fill gas tank to above 3/4 tank to rule out failing fuel pump.
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The EGR valve can be partially stuck open. Carbon removal on egr and the air supply tube is need. This is not a simple job. Carbon is hard to remove. You will need PB Blaster and WD-40 to aid the removal of carbon.


Make sure you has 4+ hours and a EGR base gasket before you start the job.
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The catalytic can be testes by a non-contact laser thermometer.
On a working catalytic. the exist temperature is 25-30 degree higher at 2500 rpm.

Please do these inspection and let me know the results via email.