20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup - Page 7 Questions & Answers

start off fine and then just once or twice and then not at all. don't know what will happen. Inconsistent.

If they are standard power brakes, check the vacuum booster. The diaphragm may be broken. If it holds a vacuum it's OK. If the brakes run through the power steering pump, make sure the belt is tight and the steering is smooth.

you mean it cranks fine but wont fire? When you installed the distributor did you set it in exactly where it came out? like where the rotor was pointing and or was it on top dead center pointing at number one on the distributor?

I don't think the problem is the door latches. Sounds more likely that the hinge pins are gone. You say you have to lift the door and slam it. When the hinge pins go the door will sag and you will need to lift it up to align with the striker pin on the door frame. Get a new set of hinges for your truck.

Hope this helps

Mike

I suggest you visit your local auto junk yard and hope they have an intact cab with locks and the keys to go with them. Otherwise you could just get a lock mechanism and have a locksmith re-tumble a provide key. Provided the locks are mechanical (not electric) the change out is pretty straight forward. You'll have to remove the inside panel. To do this part of the job you'd best get a chilton/haynes repair manual from the parts store. I try to have these manuals for all cars I own. I've quite a library. Best of luck with your little truck. Oh as an afterthought. The lock mechanisms from an S10 Blazer will work as well.

Are the controls for opening the heat functioning? Opening the heater core and allowing fluid to pass through the core would be where I would look. For instance you could remove the outlet hose from the core and see if water is passing through. Thinking it might be a clogged heater core. How about the heat gauge on the dash? You said the hoses were hot so guess the engine is reaching proper temperature. If you have A/C can you get warm air when you use defrost? If so, the heater core is OK. Conclusion: My first thought is the heater controls are not working properly but if they are then my second thought is the core itself. Hope this helps you.

Sorry ,can't help, I have a 5 speed stick in my 1998 S-10

try cheaking egr valve

Have you tried replacing the fuel pump? Sounds like your pump is burned out. Check the voltage at the pump when it should be running. If you have voltage then your pump is probably bad. If you don't have voltage work backwards checking all electrical connections until you find the bad one.

your problem sounds like either the transfer case control module located where you hear the clicking sound, or the actuator on the transfer case itself.

try unplugging the transfer case control module and then plug it back in, try engaging 4wd again (make sure your in neutral, coasting at 1-2 mph might help as well) if it still doesn't work check the actuator itself to see if the actuator is trying to engage. if the actuator is trying to engage but doesn't, take the actuator out and check it for wear or damage. if the actuator seems fine and it responds to the buttons when pressed i'd go after the transfer case control module as the culprit. ran into that a few times on those s-10's. 3 out of 4 that i've seen were fixed with a new tccm. 1 of the 4 needed an actuator, check your local junk yard for a working tccm or actuator.

hope this helps!

check alternator output at the alt and at battery also put a test light on the starter solenoid at the little wire on solenoid see if it lights up when turn key ? possible positive or negative cables have good ohm checks but not carrying enough current ?