Top 10 1998 Oldsmobile Silhouette Questions & Answers

On the 98 Silhouette, the PCM should be located in the air filter housing.

I think you have a latch issue or a latch release issue, pull the door panel and try and release the door latch, pull the latch and try to see what if anything is wrong with it, also make sure the linkage going to the latch from the release handle is hooked up or not otherwise damaged.

not sure what you are looking for?? there is no fuel cut oof switch in these vans. Not factory anyway. if you could elaborate on what you are looking for and or why.

Your Problem Can VERY WELL BE with the Temp Sensor, As It Is the First in This Electrucal Circut . it Waits for 210-230 Degree Engine temp and Gives that Sygnal to the ECM then ECM Grounds out the Cooling FAN RELAY To Turn ON the FANS and the Temp Sensor is Usualy THE #1 Culpret Closley in front of the RELAY.
There are 2 Sensors On this Vehicle The One You Replaced and One Located At Trans Side of
Engine Closer to Front of Vehicle At the Head ,Thereis a 2 wire Plug On it and This Sensor Goes to the ECT witch CONTROLS COOLING FAN RELAY. Hope this Helps and if you Need A Diagram For this It Must be Emailed as FixYa Does NOT Support Large Picture Files. My Email Add. Is MY
Screen Name Here on FixYa @aol.com

The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6

The cylinder #
From the firewall, passenger to dives side 1-3-5
From the radiator, passenger to drivers side 2-4-6

On the coil pack from passenger to drivers side
5-2-3-6-4-1

Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to answer any other questions you may have.

The brake light may be on because of low fluid.The traction control is on because the abs light is on.System requires the abs to be actively working for traction control to work.The most common cause of this is a wheel speed sensor which on this vehicle is part of the bearing hub assembly.You will need a scan tool to locate where the fault is in the abs system.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
3. Inspect the battery state of charge.
4. Install a scan tool.
5. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
6. With the scan tool, establish communications with the ABS/TCS system. Select Special Functions from the ABS/TCS menu. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
7. Bleed the base brake system.
8. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.
9. If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure:
10. If a DTC is detected, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List and diagnose the appropriate DTC.
11. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again.
12. When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal in order to inspect for firmness.
13. Remove the scan tool.
14. Install the tire and wheel assemblies.
15. Inspect the brake fluid level.
16. Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.

Bleeding ABS Automated Bleed Procedure NOTE: In most circumstances a base brake bleed is all that is required for most component replacements (such as wheel cylinders, calipers, brake tubes, and master cylinder) except for brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) replacement.
The following automated antilock brake system (ABS) bleed procedure is required when one of the following occur:

• Manual bleeding at the wheel cylinders does not achieve the desired pedal height or feel.
• Replacement of the BPMV
• Extreme loss of brake fluid has occurred.
• Air ingestion is suspected.

NOTE: If none of the above conditions apply, use standard bleed procedures.
The auto bleed procedure is used on BOSH 5.3 equipped vehicles. This procedure uses a scan tool to cycle the system solenoid valves and run the pump in order to purge the air from the secondary circuits. These secondary circuits are normally closed off, and are only opened during system initialization at vehicle start up and during ABS operation. The automated bleed procedure opens these secondary circuits and allows any air trapped inside the BPMV to flow out toward the wheel cylinders or calipers where it can be purged out of the system.
Preliminary Inspection

1. Inspect the battery for a full charge.
2. Repair the battery and charging system as necessary.
3. Connect a scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) and select the current and history DTCs.
4. Repair any DTCs prior to performing the ABS bleed procedure.
5. Inspect for visual damage and leaks and repair as needed.

Preliminary Setup

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
4. Remove all 4 tires (if necessary)
5. Connect the pressure bleeding tool.
6. Turn the ignition switch to RUN position with the engine off.
7. Connect a scan tool and establish communications with the ABS system.
8. Pressurize the bleeding tool to 30-35 psi (206-241 kPa).

Automated Bleed Procedure
NOTE: The Auto Bleed Procedure may be terminated at any time during the process by pressing the EXIT button. No further Scan Tool prompts pertaining to the Auto Bleed procedure will be given.
CAUTION
After exiting the bleed procedure, relieve bleed pressure and disconnect bleed equipment per manufacturers instructions. Failure to properly relieve pressure may result in spilled brake fluid causing damage to components and painted surfaces.

1. With the pressure bleeding tool set to 30-35 psi (206-241 kPa) and all bleeder screws in closed position, select Automated Bleed Procedure on the scan tool and follow the instructions.
2. The first part of the automated bleed procedure will cycle the pump and front release valves for one minute.
3. After the cycling has stopped the scan tool will enter a "cool down" mode and display a 3 minute timer. NOTE: The auto bleed will not continue until this timer expired, and cannot be overridden.
   
4. During the next step, the scan tool will request the technician to open one of the bleeder screws. The scan tool will then cycle the respective release valve and pump motor for 1 minute.
5. The scan tool will repeat step 3 for the remaining bleeder screws.
6. With the bleeder tool still attached to the vehicle and maintaining 30-35 psi (206-241 kPa), the scan tool will instruct the technician to independently open each bleeder screw for approximately 20 seconds. This should allow any remaining air to be purged from the brake lines.
7. When the automated bleed procedure is completed the scan tool will display the appropriate message.
8. Install all 4 tires, if necessary.
9. Remove the pressure from the pressure bleeding tool
10. Disconnect the tool from the vehicle.
11. Depress the brake pedal to gauge pedal height and feel.
12. Repeat the procedure until the pedal is acceptable.
13. Remove the scan tool from the DLC connector.
14. Safely lower the vehicle.
15. Inspect the brake fluid level in master cylinder.
16. Road test the vehicle while ensuring the brake pedal remains high and firm.
17. If the vehicle is equipped with a traction control system (TCS), the scan tool will cycle both the ABS and TCS solenoids valves. This bleed procedure is the same as above.

Well, I don't know about the "cert.GM tech", but the WIRING DIAGRAMS for your vehicle say that there are 4 ground circuits for your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) They are pins 16, 56, 57, and 60 in connector 1 at the PCM. They all have the same grounding point: G110 which is located just to the left of the starter on the transmission bell housing. Your negative battery cable grounds there also. Incidently, the grounds for the fuel pump relay and the ignition control module also originate from this point. (You will find several wires bolted to the transmission here.) Actually, it will be a special bolt in the transmission bell housing bolt with a stud made onto it and a 15mm nut will be holding all the wire terminals to the bolt.

With all that said, if I had a PCM that would not communicate with a code reader, the VERY FIRST thing I would check would be the Cigarette Lighter fuse. It is located in the fuse block in the right end of the dash. It is marked "CIGAR/DLC" and is a 15 Amp fuse. If this fuse is blown, unplug whatever you have plugged into the cigarette lighter before replacing it. It is very common for ths fuse to be blown as a result of defective phone chargers and laptop computer power supplies, etc.

DTC P0341 will set if Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor pulses are not in proper ratio to 24X and 3X Crankshaft Position (CKP) pulses.

Conditions required to set this DTC are:

> Engine running and PCM is receiving valid 3X reference pulses
> CMP reference pulse signal is not detected on every engine cycle
> Condition is present for at least 30 seconds

The first thing that should be done is visual inspection of the wiring harnesses to the sensors and the secondary ignition cables and coil packs. Please note that misrouted spark plug cables an/or cracked and arcing ignition coils can cause interference with the CMP and CKP circuits. Inspect to be certain that the ignition cables are correctly routed and fastened in their original holders (or equivalent). Also check for deteriorated wire coverings (wire loom) leading to the CMP, 3X , and 24X sensors. If there are problems found, repair as necessary and retest vehicle.
If there are no problems as listed above, the next step is to determine if this is a "Current" (hard-fault) or an "history" (intermittent fault).

If your scanner has the capability of outputting computer data, check the codes under "current codes" or "failed this ignition". If the code is there, then the problem is occurring "RIGHT NOW"! This can make the problem much easier to find. (We'll get to that later) If the code is only in "continuous memory" Then the problem is intermittent. For intermittent faults, it would be best to return to the top of this post and re-check everything - also pull and tug on wires and harnesses to see if you can get the code to set.

If your scanner does not have this capability (outputs generic OBD codes only) Then the easiest way to determine if it is a hard fault is to clear the codes, then start the engine and run it for about 2 minutes and check codes again. If the code set after 2 minutes, then it can be considered a hard fault. Let me know if the problem is a hard fault and we'll walk through checking the circuits. Again, for intermittent faults, try wiggle-testing and checking components over - see if you can get the code to set. Check codes between everything you pull on or wiggle so you can determine which part of the system has the problem. (If you wiggle and pull EVERYTHING before rechecking codes and the code sets, you have not eliminated ANYTHING.)

Please also refer to the picture to help with understanding the components involved.

Your problem is the door thinks that it is already locked and closed. You need have the sliding door unlocked, have someone pull the handle as if they were going to open the door and then use a tool to "Open" the latch that normally would hold the door closed.