20 Most Recent 2007 Suzuki Reno Hatchback Questions & Answers

run the fault codes to find the fault in the transmission

sounds like its low on tranny fluid ?' plus the inhibitor switch is playing up from your description .

the LAMP means GET THE CAR SERVICED in fact, in truth and in the operators guide clear as day so why ask? when the lamp is off scanning it can give you NOTHING the lamp comes on at failure, so not scanning then means you missed the BOAT, it sailed away gone. the engine is MISFIRING ,say DTC code P0300 so then you see that and ask why well ever get a full tuneup in last decade. no , bingo, no car runs forever lacking same' not one, not ever, for 100 + years. buy a scan tool land learn to use it or go to the shop when CEL glows driving. win. other wise, get a tuneup'

yes

probably a bent connecting rod which is major damage , it could also be a bent pushrod but not likely

TPMS #2 old post, and rare on this topic so will answer. next post adds how to reset it,? now that is a loaded question avoiding all systems,,,,, YOU dont., it's Automatic for 4 bucks you can read the whole full rules in the FSM. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1068-2007-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx did you use a scan tool yet, most cars will tell you which tire is wrong. (are the all at spec pressure? ) including spare? steps to take in all cases 1: tire pressure correct. 2: connect any scan too (can-bus) to dash DLC 16 pin connector 3: keyon and scan. 4: see DTC C0750 (or many others0 750 is. Transmitter Battery Voltage is too low. tire #1 this is first, repairs are next. (actually more tests) we have a hand scanner now cheap, to scan all tires. (battery bad, pressure low, dead, or? other errors on sensor, even too hot)

the cluster lamp, well that's easy, turn key, all lights i dash glow as a test. see it TPMS or open up glove box operators guide, see that page telling you same? and more.. on topic, lost it get one? 4 bucks a gander https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1067-2007-reno-owners-manual.aspx same for FSM book (service), see it? see both?

it bet 99.9% its not bad. btw. why not post symptoms , and ask how to trouble shoot that.....? quote of FSM book Upper Driver Leg Room

Depends on the vehicle year, make and model. You can look online at any auto parts retailer or, gonl to or call your local auto parts dealer, dealership or mechanic.

wow, you want super basic service questions. even placement. what country which engine, ? 1.4 L E-TEC I4 (petrol) 1.6 L E-TEC I4 (petrol) 1.8 L Family II I4 (petrol) 2.0 L Family II I4 (petrol) 2.0 L RA 420 I4 (diesel) try reading the manual. pull the battery negative lug first. or boom. I will never tell you how to jack a car ,not me.... read a book first. read the FSM pages on Safety..... https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1068-2007-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx the steps are the same on all cars. only access to ALT varies. all cars made.

1. neg lug off
2. gain access
3. unbolt wires at alt
4. release belt
5. unbolt alt.

the FSM may tell you the best way to gain access. no engine stated, so I pass on details.

wow ,no engine or country stated, not that is Challenge. RTM yet, this is advanced repair,,, skipping steps, you will fail. the line up, got one of these? 1.4 L E-TEC I4 (petrol) 1.6 L E-TEC I4 (petrol) 1.8 L Family II I4 (petrol) 2.0 L Family II I4 (petrol) 2.0 L RA 420 I4 (diesel) if in usa this covers you https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1068-2007-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspx if not, not.,

there is no such thing, and dont try, the PCM controls idle at all times. (via the ISC device) alldata.com, and the real FSM states just that. read it. my wild guess is , idle is wrong. so is wrong, when cold, warm or hot engine and what is it, in RPM?

what makes you think there is one.?>?????? there is a port, but not a dip stick filler, like in olden days. The car has special tools to do this , listed in the FSM. why thinks this>? rumor,? trends, (they change)? past cars had one, sure they did.? open glove box, extract the operators guide, see the A/T check page missing, sure is. and by DESIGN. not only that , the FSM contradicts the opr. guide. (suzuki ways) it uses a special fluid Esso LT 71141 or TOTAL ATF H50235 and they dont want you to put in the wrong fluids, so BLOCK you. the keep them from buying you a new free tranny in warranty The FSM shows replace at 100,000 miles. (not severe tables) inspection every 30k. first google hit ever try google first? https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090311164317AAuH3gM

fuse blown.

Do you mean the little poorly engineered sensor that tells the trans what gear your car is in that failed on our car twice before we dumped it and brought a New Camry ;-), yea that is located on top the Transmission housing. It's 3 bolts to remove, check the Suzuki forum for the write up of how to replace it. When it fails the car will go into limp mode, hopefully not on the highway, but its easily enough to replace in your driveway with the E brake engaged and a few common wrenches. it may need to be adjusted, but even that has a limited range, the only way to avoid its premature failure is to make sure every single time the car must be at a complete stop and when you feel the car engage the next gear ie Drive to Reverse, only then you can apply the accelerator. Anything too soon and you'll strip that sensor every time.

Google, Pureoil.com. Click on applications in the side menu, after putting in your vehicle info you'll get 2 choices for oil filters...

IF you have been using aftermarket cylinders then they are inferior to genuine units in that they do not have the cylinder infused with an anti wear property . If you re-kit the cylinder and hone out the wear marks this coating is removed and the cylinder job will not last.. That is why new car parts last longer then replaced units. . Use a genuine part and check that the piston push rod is aligned with the throw out arm because if there is a misalignment then the piston is pushed hard into the cylinder wall promoting rapid wear. I fail to see the logic in replacing a car for the cost of a slave cylinder. . When you get a genuine cylinder then before fitting it pull the rubber boot off and fill the boot with rubber grease as this will lubricate the piston in the cylinder and keep dirt put.

The flashing light means there is a problem with the engine serious enough to damage the catalytic converter. You should get the computer scanned for trouble codes. If there are no external coolant leaks, the engine is probably burning the coolant thru the cylinders and out the tail pipe. Which could also be causing the flashing light.