should be 1.6L engine. easy to replace but is a belt not chain. unless you know how to line up camshaft / crankshaft, I'd pay for the labor. full kit on RockAuto.com is about $50
remove front right wheel, unbolt engine mount top passenger side, loosen accessory pump at top, remove timing belt covers (upper & lower), replace belt and idlers from kit.
to reassemble....reverse steps.
yes, it is that simple BUT not for a neophyte. inspect original belt before replacement, if no cracks, I'd leave alone. mine had 145,000 at replacement and was still good.
It sounds to me like the catalytic converter is either clogged or broken. When It's clogged or broken it can cause less compression, making the revs stay high because the exhaust gasses have no where to go.
Hi there:DTC P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean"This means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for.This is most often caused by a vacuum leak. It can also be caused by a clogged fuel filter, unmetered air entering the air intake system, leaking exhaust system, canister purge system not operating or a weak fuel pump.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.
EPS is Electronic Power Steering. When the light comes on, it is a warning that the Electronic Power Steering system is having a problem. The increased force you have to use, is because the EPS is not assisting you as much as it was before, if at all.Here is a link to a video explaining the basic operation of the electronics at youtube.
There should be a small relay behind the brake pedal that releases a small plunger when the brake is applied. Remove this relay and take it to AutoZone, they will have a replacement. If you can't locate it on your own, go buy the replacement and look for the matching part behind the pedal.
check the fuel pump pressure after putting the petrol in and then it will not start as the pump could have a low pressure ,as the car runs the EVAP system is pressurising the tank making up for the shortfall in the pump pressure
look for any hoses or wires that may be contacting a hot surface or a pulley .if there is alot of oil on the engine then a wash isnt a bad idea. you can generally do it your self for about 10 bucks and a little time keep in mind engines have sensitive electronics that will be damaged if sprayed with water.knowing what to keep dry is key here. check the oil dipstick and cap, transmission fluid dipstick. look for any type of leaks. a good way is to sit a clean peice of cardboard under the car over night. inspecting it the next day will show if something is leaking.hope this helps..let me know what you find.
The main thing to check is to verify the operation of the VCT solenoid. You're looking for a sticking or stuck VCt solenoid valve caused by contamination. Refer to vehicle specific repair manual to perform component tests for the VCT unit. Notes: Dealer techs have advanced tools and the ability to follow detailed troubleshooting steps, including the ability to test components using a scan tool.
Your owner's manual contains a section for maintenance & safety checks. Depending on your vehicle's maintenance history, you may not have to change any fluids at this time. As a rule of thumb, every 30,000 miles you should change trans fluid/lube and cooling system flush every 2 years. Brake & power steering fluid need only be checked for minimum level and inspect system components if fluid levels are below minimum.
I actually have the same problem. I replace the actual horn but admittedly wit a new one. Want to try the relay first but cannot get it to come out or find the new one.
Yes, it is alright to rotate the motor backwards that one tooth (1/4 inch or so) to position the crank shaft back to top dead center for timing belt replacement. If you were to turn the motor one full rotation to realign the timing marks, you risk bending one or more valves. Be sure when sliding the belt on, the long straight section of belt is tight, the marks are aligned, and the tensioner is locked in the loosest position for the maximum amount of slack. Always double and triple check your bolt tightness and alignment marks to decrease the possibility of problems after firing up the motor.
firstly make all the bulbs glow in the indicator segment. this will moderate the flasher speed as due to even one bulb fused, causes other bulbs to glow at high rate.
Look under the bumper, you should find the light bulbs in a harness. To release them, twist the bulbs until the are unlocked from the harness. Pull the bulb out and replace it.
