Hobart Welding Tools - Page 3 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Not a question.

The first thing to check would be to see if you have open circuit voltage at the weld output terminals when you push the pedal. Make sure the high frequency is off if you are going to to check with a multimeter. After that if you do have OCV but no high frequency to start the arc, try it in start and in continuous. When you put it in continuous it bypasses a control relay. Also check the HF points to make sure they are clean and gapped to about ten thousandths.

bad computer-its an authorized dealer thing-you can pay 1-200 to get it figured out or buy a HF flux core welder for same price. yeah-Im all blue in my shop and I said HF... i would pay the miller dealer to get it fixed.

Make sure the trigger switch is applying power to the motor. If there is no reading when you checked for OHMS then the motor is open. You'll have to get a new one.

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sounds like the voltage is not getting to the tip. I would suggest taking this in for repair.

should be adjusters where the wire feeds out to the hose... adjust those. couple of youtube videos online should help you out

Sounds like the voltage is not going to the tip. I would suggest taking this in for repair.

Check fuses or breakers.

is this a lower end machine ? the cheaper machines take the power from the welding transformer to power the feed motor and as a result the feed isn't stable, also is the wire liner and tip in good condition if not replace them, try blowing through the liner with compressed air to clear any dust from the wire

check the return wire from the hand trigger has been connected to the speed motor wire. Check for a fuse in the system. I have just wrecked a 190 amp welder and I noticed the feed motor assy. was fully insulated from the welder body. Check that out as well as it may be shorting out and not driving the motor.

are the rollers tightened enough, also maybe the wire is jammed in gun.

Check the selector switch with an ohm meter. Unplug the unit, ground to chassis and probe the contacts while turning the switch on and off.

There are two wires comming from the circuit board to the wire feed motor. You can try running the motor directly from a 12v battery or two for 24 volts. You might want to look at the name plate on the motor to check the normal DC current it draws. If you do not have an ammeter, you could use a fuse close to or just under the normal current. If it runs and draws too much current, then you know you have motor problems.If it runs well and draws a fraction of normal current,you know the motor is good. Before you condem the circuit board, check that it is receiving the correct input voltage. If the welder is dual voltage,then somebodys mistake making voltage change could send 240 v to the board that is meant to receive 120v. Hope this helps, Robert

check regulator

Check or replace ignition wire, spark plug spark plug coil. Run a cylinder compression check. Should have same compression on both cylinders. If not, burnt valve, or flat cam lobe.

Check internal connections, Check to see if CR3- a heavy 24 volt contactor- closes. And check for continuity of secondary winding of transformer which connect to the rectifiers. The rectifiers are likely dead, or contactor has failed- either the coil winding or the contacts. Bypassing therectifiers will allow machine to work as an AC weldert, but your results may be unpredictable.Also check for continuity between pins 1 and 4 on heat selector switch (primary windings in series, you should see some resistance, but not a great deal).

check rollers make sure using hard wire side for hardwire not for flux core maybe tighten tension

Replace trigger switch.