I would replace the capacitor anyway as they are cheap. If it is the PCB, there isn't much on it, a transformer, some resistors and a component with a heat sink probably a triac. You could take that to a good electronics engineer and they could test it at component level.
It must be very old, there are no parts at all.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Craftsman+grinder+152.211620+parts
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This switch is a very close fit, and it is rated for 20A 120VAC.
2LNA7 $11.09 / each
Grainger
I've used it on that vintage Craftsman bench grinder.
http://www.grainger.com/
Hello.
First of all I must warn you of the dangers bench grinders can represent. Here in Britain no one connected with a business is allowed to carry out any maintenance on any none-portable grinding machine unless they have attended and passed a course on the subject and every employer must keep a register recording what maintenance has been carried out and by whom. Grinding machines have been responsible for many industrial "accidents".
Householders and private individuals are exempt from the Law but cannot afford to be less well informed even though the five and six inch bench grinders sold to the domestic user represent a somewhat reduced risk, great care and precautions are still required, not the least of which is the use of good eye protection even if the grinder is fitted with shields.
The first problem about dressing the grinding wheel of a grinder intended for the domestic market is the tool rests are usually too small and insubstantial for the vibrating star-wheel type wheel dressing tool to be used correctly.
A demonstration would be the best way to learn how to dress a grinding wheel and there are many available on Youtube and here is a link to a particularly good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqxfJ4DtZtQ
Finally, it is best to be aware of one little thought about problem. There is an optimum speed range when a grinding wheel works efficiently and small domestic grinders barely turn fast enough for them to be properly efficient, probably because it is reckoned price and user safety takes priority over efficiency.
The speed that is of concern is the surface or peripheral speed of the grinding surface rather than the rpm of the spindle and should that speed fall too low the wheel will not be able to operate efficiently, will become dull more quickly with a greater tendency to clog and the wheel will become hot in use and hot grinding wheels soon become dangerous.
I hope you will be able to see that by reducing the diameter of a grinding wheel by dressing it also reduces the surface speed of the grinding surface even though the spindle speed remains the same. The relationship between surface speed and spindle speed is why small grinding points need to spin at 20,000 rpm and an eight foot wheel at just a few hundred rpm - in both cases the surface speed is similar.
A domestic grinder should not be used for heavy work but as the size of the wheel is reduced it should be used only for increasingly light work and if it is desired to carry out "normal" grinding operations it would be better to replace the wheel sooner rather than later.
Sears Craftsman is usually easy as Sears Parts Direct has diagrams and part numbers.
However your switch number 31919063033 is no longer available. I would suggest checking out online places like Digikey or Newark for a switch that will work for you. As long as the Voltage, amperage and number of poles and will fit in the space provided you should be OK.
Link to Sears Parts Direct.
Searching Model For Search Your Way 31919063 2
Link to Newark
Switches Relays 60 674 Products Found
Link to Digikey
Electronic Components
Feel the power cord when that happens. If the power cord doesn't get pretty warm, and the grinder itself doesn't get awfully hot, then I'd suspect the breaker - they get old and trip too easily.
Unless the motor is a brush type universal unit, there is commonly no way to change the speed of an induction motor. There are AC motor speed control units available, but cost more than the grinder as they change the frequency as well as the voltage. There are speed controllable grinders available that use brushes so that simple electronics can control speed. Hope this helps!
Clamp the shaft behind one wheel with 'Channelock' or 'Visegrip' pliers, then tighten both nuts. Check the new wheels for 'off-center' running by spinning them with your hand. They may fit the shaft tight enough that there is no centering adjustment--use a 'wheel dresser' (either a stone type or a multi-wheel type) to true up the wheel so that there is no radial wobble. Hope this helps!
If you put a wrench on the nut on the other end of the shaft, you have a 50/50 chance that the nut you want loose will come loose. If the wrong one comes loose, you can remove that nut completely (and the wheel) then take the nut with you to the store to buy another one. Then put two nuts back on and tighten them together as a jamb nut. Then try again. If the wrong nut still turns, you have to tighten the pair of nuts together tighter.
good luck
Yes. It is always good to use wire heavier then you require, for long runs, because resistance builds up accumulatively. But if you need it or not depends on the actual number of amps you will be drawing from all the things in the out building at the same time, and the size of the breaker you will be attaching it to. For example, if you were to going to run a heater and a power tool at the same time, on 12 gauge wire in the storage building, along with a couple of lights, on a 20 amp breaker, then I would suggest 10 gauge to the shed. But if you are only going to run lights and one tool at a time, from a 15 amp breaker, you could probably get away with 12 gauge.
