Crossover blow drivers.How can i get the part for thecrossover that has copper wire wraped on a piece of metal.What's it called? a coil or what.All i know is it keep the driver playing and keeps it from being blown

You might thy going backwards from the output to the IC .have a good light and make yourself a pointer that is nonmetallic which you can track the copper strips on the circuit board without touching them. If you remove this IC from the board, be sure to wear a grounding strap to your hand or wrist, connected to the metal chassis.BE SURE TO REMOVE THE POWER CABLE BEFORE YOU BEGIN! Note the exact way you remove it. The number one pin will have a indented dot on the plastic case. Be sure to reinstall in the correct order. ALWAYS WEAR A GROUNDING STRAP TO HANDLE ANY IC! The static electric in your body can blow certain IC units. You can make you own grounding strap using an old metal watch band, a piece of flexible wire approx. two feet long and an alligator clip to attach it to the chassis. Hope this helps you and I hope I have not confused you.

In Peavey cabinets, the lower woofer is always Yellow + and Blue - and the horn is always Red + and Black -. On the middle 15" the remaining two wires would be White + and Blue -

Taylor make a factory solution for this issue- you basically need a metal strip located where the ball ends of the strings anchor, and a wire running from that to the ground on the output jack. The Taylor piece is about 25.00, but is only good for pins that are in a straight line, not the "vee" shape of some of the Stratacoustics. I have made my own version through the years, using thin piece of metal, holes drilled to match the alignment of the bridge pin holes, held inside in line with the bridge pin holes by two-faced carpet tape (the thin kind)...with a wire soldered to it that is then run to the ground tab on the output jack. Then any time you touch the strings, you ground the guitar. This is usually a problem caused by the ground attachment on the under-saddle pickup, btw, right where the wire joins the pickup under the saddle.

There is very little to an inspeaker crossover that could go bad unless it was SEVERELY overdriven. I recommend checking the speaker individually on a wire from a stereo or something powered to verify this. A crossover is nothing more than a capacitor (high cutoff) and an inductor.(low cutoff). The 600 watts rating of the cabinet is an RMS rating, meaning, .707 actual peak value free of distortion. This means that you can only drive it about 71% of that without distorting or damaging it. You said, "very little signal gets to the speaker", which sounds like "very low volume" meaning, magnet stuck, speaker not moving much, meaning warped voice coil. Check that the speaker will move back and forth with your hand freely without interference or scratchy noise. If it doesn't, the voice coil is warped and the speaker needs to be reconed or replaced.

The problem is bad high freq. IC TDA7293.
There is no pasive crossover.

Crossovers RARELY blow... most likely the tweeter speakers have blown... not fun to find replacements.

I would NOT rewire them. The crossover is also part of the protection. The big question are the speakers themselves damaged? There may be a protection fues inside. There are also some resetable type fuses called "polyfuse" that sometimes fry and require replacement. This speaker is rated at 800 watts PEAK and 400 Watts program... that is NOT 400 watts continuous RMS... it is "specsmanship". You should be driving this with an amp capable of NOT MORE than 300 Watts.
They claim a SPL of 118 Db. That is loud, but if you used an amp capable of say 500 watts RMS you could easily blow the speaker. The crossover for this is likely a simple coil in series... possibly on a ferrite core. Hopefully if anything blew, it was the coil... but that is NOT likely. I assumed you have checked the amp as that would be the MOST probablle for a simultaneous failure of the subs.

The crossover in these is very simple and if it is burned, likely your speakers, maybe both, the woofer and tweeter have been damaged and need to be replaced. Test the speakers before changing the crossover. You MAY NOT notice the damage until you start driving the speakers again. The voice coil of the woofer is a common thing to fry, and while it may not open up, often it becomes unbonded to the coil form and rubs the magnet pole pieces. The tweeter/horn often wipes out the diaphram or blows the element open. Some of these are piezo horns and they can sometimes survive. These are rated at 100 Watts and if your amp can deliver over 50 watts you have to be careful to not put too much power into these. I have several of the Kustom 10 inch ones and several of the 15 inch ones... Also I have two 15 double stacks and they all seem to use the same crossover. Believe me, the crossover is far from what I would call "special" like the advertisements say. As an electrical engineer I was very disappointed. Anyway, test your speakers as they may be the worst of the problem.

Horn and speaker combo cabinets have an electronic component called a "crossover". The horn and speaker both work off different electrical signal frequencies. If you can take off the back, or get inside by pulling the speaker, check for a small circuit board mounted inside the box or on the speaker or horn. Check for a broken wire or loose connection of the crimp connectors.

A common problem with speakers, often the cone, or paper part of the speaker will come un-glued or separated from the magnet "voice coil". This happens when played too loud, when it's commected to the wrong impedance, or if the signal was shorted and "overdriven" (usually sounds like an awful buzz that's really loud).

Always make sure your output impedance matches the impedance of the speaker. Most auto stereos are 4 Ohms. Older home stereos are typically 8 Ohms. Musical PA gear varies between 4, 8, and 16 Ohms. Peavey gear is typicall 4 Ohms, but some older models are different. The Ohm rating is the amount of the resistance in the circuit. If your speaker is 4 Ohms and you plug it into an 8 Ohm circuit, you can destroy the speaker and sometimes the crossover circuit board.

Good Luck.

Jim
[email protected]
Phoenix, Az