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have you replaced the hoses? it's a good idea to do that every few years anyway (they get old and often burst) ... some hoses have an inline screen filter that can get stopped up thus your washer would only get hot water if the cold water hose was stopped up.
This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model FRONT LOADERS displaying the “FH” error code. "F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed.Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary. - Make sure water taps are on. - Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed.Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning - Verify Drain Pump operation. - Verify Flowmeter operation. - Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free.The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer.Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running.If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer.With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off.The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser.It’s a small white plastic device with hoses attached.The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear.It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls.Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
I hope this helpful. Please post back if you can't find the tech sheet and/or need further assistance.
Hear is a list of possible causes for running out of hot water.
Water temperature is set too low. Increase the temperature to approximately 125-130 F.
Reduced the water flow when the water filter or fixture aerator are clogged.
If there is a plumbing crossover, cold water is mixing with the hot water. One of the reasons for the plumbing crossover is if the single-lever mixing valve was installed, and it failed.
Gas valve does not provide enough pressure; either due to the low gas pressure or if it is not open fully. Is the gas line sized correctly?
Sediment and limescale build-up inside the heat exchanger. You might want to use the descaling procedure and flush all the deposits. The scale deposits act as an insulator preventing the heat exchanger to transfer the heat to water.
Is venting system clean of the debris and does it provide enough fresh air for proper combustion?
Do y7ou have 2 hoses at the back of the machine one for cold water and one connected to the hot water tap of the house. If not then you have a cold water in only. If you have 2 hoses have you connected the hoses into the machine correctly Have you checked to see if your machine has a heating element under the bowl for heating the water. As an appliance shop to verify if you have by the model number of the machine. otherwise you have a cold washing machine and unless you can plumb hot water to it that is all you will have.
What is happening is that your cold water flow is greater in volume (gals per min) than your hot water. So when you open the cold water it is mixing with the hot water inside the faucett or shower plumbing and actually reverse flowing back into the hot water heater plumbing. The reverse flow slows the water flow sensing turbine inside the heater and it is thinking that there is not any water flow. (There isn't actually due to the equalization of water pressure when you open the cold water faucett) Since this is a safety feature of the tankless heater to keep it from overheating, it shuts off.
Somewhere in the hot water plumbing there is a major restriction. It may very well be the internal plumbing of the tankless hot water heater or the flow detector design.
There are 2 ways to correct this. The easy way would be to restrict the available cold water flow. You can do this by installing another shut off valve inline with the cold water plumbing and just not open the valve all the way. You would have to adjust the setting so that the hot and cold water can be on at the same time and the hot water heater stays on. The hard way is to locate the hot water flow restriction and eliminate it.
It is possible.... if you have a flow restrictor in a shower head or a screen in a faucett areator that they are partially clogged. Clean any flow restrictors and screens then see how the hot water heater performs before you start modifying plumbing.
To solve this problem simply reverse the water hoses from the way that they are set up currently. Then do a test again to make sure that when you select HOT you are getting HOT.
your problem can be fixed by running a loop in the plumbing. If you hired a professional in the first place it would already be done. basically the water pressure isn't enough, i bet your faucet is on the second or third floor, or even just THAT far from the water heater.
Hi, Switch the hoses around going to the mixer/inlet valve. I am sure this will take care of the problem.
If not, please let me know so I can assist you further.
Is the hot water hot that is coming to the washer? Are you using the correct settings on the unit? If yes to both then either the solinoid water valve is bad or the timer switch unit is bad. Try going to a totally hot water setting. While turning on the machine feel of the hot water line at the machine and see if you notice a buzz or feel a click as you turn on the machine. On this setting does water run in and is it hot or cold. If water runs and it is cold try going to a total cold setting and see if you get cold or hot water. Is this a new setup or has it been working and stopped? If new, you could have the hoses connected backward. If you get water in both hot and cold settings but cold both ways then your hot water heater is not working....let me know....
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