Intermatic T104 24h 208-277v Mechanical Time Switch Logo
Posted on Feb 10, 2011

I hooked up a new T104 timer and the manual works but its not clicking on and off when it is supposed to or at all. are you suppposed to have the turn dial in a certain position or what

1 Answer

A

Anonymous

1) The dial should rotate as time passes.
Set trippers on dial at times you want timer to turn on-off.
To set current time: Pull out yellow dial and rotate dial until current time lines up with silver pointer located at 6 o'clock position.

2) If manual override turns Load on-off but dial doesn't rotate continuously, then you have incorrect wiring.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
Most common mistake is confusing Load wires (wires going to light,fan, motor, pump) with Line wires coming from breaker box.

3) Another possibility is that you have wrong timer: T104 has 240V clock motor.
If your circuit has 120V instead of 240, then clock motor will not rotate dial.
You might need to exchange timer for T101 or T103 timer (see wiring for these timers on link above)

4) How box timers work.
Clock motor rotates dial.
Trippers on dial push lever back and forth.
Lever moves copper contacts that open and close circuit

i hooked up a new T104 timer and the manual works - geno_3245_272.jpg

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How to set up intermatic t104m to work with two speed motor

T104 cannot be easily set up to handle 2-speed motors
You need T106 timer with NO NC terminals.

Or you can use the T104 to control relay with NO NC terminals... relay would need 240 Volt coil. Problem is most relays with NO NC terminals are 120 Volt coil or rated too low amperage for motor.

Or move T104 clock motor wires to A and 1... connect 240Volt power to A and 1... then terminals 3-4 are dry and can be used to control any voltage relay coil (120 Volt for example).
When T104 is ON, then relay uses NC terminals to send power to low speed. When T104 is OFF, then relay uses NO terminals to send power to high speed.
Buying T106 timer is probably cheaper and simpler.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJM7ZS/?tag=waterheaterti-20

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T106

http://waterheatertimer.org/Buy-T100-series-timers.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-control-centers-and-manuals.html

Gene

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Very clear explanation, gotgeek2. I just bought a T104, and I was pleased to...

These instructions are for USA residential wiring only.

VERY IMPORTANT: Understand that in US residential wiring the WHITE wire is _NOT_ ALWAYS_ the neutral wire. Additionally, prior to 1999 the National Electric Code (NEC) did not require that these white wires be re-identified with black tape or similar means when used for purposes other than neutral. The white wire is sometimes used as a hot, especially when wiring Intermatic T103 and T104 timers.

Also understand that the WHITE neutral wire and the bare (or green) equipment grounding wire are connected together ONLY at the main electric power panel and must _never_be connected together _again_. Once those two wires leave the main electric panel, the WHITE neutral wire must _always_ remain insulated from the bare or green equipment grounding wire. This is very important for safety considerations.

If your wiring is very old and does not have a bare equipment grounding conductor, you _must_ protect the circuit with a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter). GFCI wiring is not difficult but is beyond the scope of this post.

DETERMINE WHAT CABLE YOU HAVE:
Usually one will find one of the three following scenarios for the incoming supply cables when wiring a T103 or T104 Intermatic timer:

1...A 120 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE (hot), white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with the T103, but not the T104.

2...A 240 volt cable with 3 wires: black, white, and bare. The black is LINE(hot), the WHITE is LINE (HOT), and the bare is equipment grounding. Black to white is 240 volts. This scenario is used with the T104 ONLY.

3...A 120/240 volt cable with 4 wires: Black, red, white, and bare. The black and red are (LINE) hot, white is neutral and bare is equipment grounding. Black to red is 240 volts. Black to white is 120 volts. Red to white is 120 volts. This scenario can be used with either the T103 or the T104.

The only difference between the T103 and the T104 is the timer motor voltage rating. The T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor. The T103 timer motor is connected to terminal "A" and terminal #3 during manufacturing. The T104 timer motor is connected to terminal #1 and terminal 3# at the factory.

Also, when connecting the bare or green wires to the "GR" terminal, it is best to wirenut the wires together with a pigtail, then connect the pigtail to the "GR" (GRound) terminal, WHICH IS THE GREEN SCREW ON THE LOWER PART OF THE CASE.

WIRING THE TIMER:
The wiring diagram for the T103 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T103.pdf
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING 120/240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES (scenario #3):

Incoming (LINE) wires from 240 volt circuit breaker:
Connect the black (LINE)(hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the red (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #3. Connect the white (neutral in this case) wire to terminal "A".
Connect the bare equipment grounding wire to the "GR" terminal, which is the green screw on the case.

Outgoing wires to 240 volt load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. The bare or green wire goes to the "GR" terminal.
___________________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T103 USING AN INCOMING _120_ VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #1):

Incoming wires from 120 volt breaker or source:
Black (LINE) to terminal #3. White (neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

Terminals #1 and #2 are NOT used in this case.

Outgoing wires to 120 volt load(s):
Black(hot) to terminal #4. White(neutral) to terminal "A". Bare to the "GR" terminal.

The wiring diagram for the T104 is here:
http://www.progressive-growth.com/wiring/T104.pdf
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 3 WIRES (scenario #2):

Incoming (LINE) wires from breaker:
Connect the black (LINE) (hot) wire to terminal #1. Connect the white (LINE) (hot in this case) to terminal #3. Connect the bare wire to the "GR" terminal.

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.

Outgoing wires to load:
Connect one (hot) wire to terminal #2 and the other (hot) wire to terminal #4. Connect the bare or green wire to terminal "GR".

The "A" terminal is _NOT_ used.
______________________________________________________________
WIRING THE T104 USING AN INCOMING 240 VOLT CABLE WITH 4 WIRES:
Same as above, except the white wire is not used. Just tape or wirenut it off.
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Intermatic T104 timer manual switch stuck

To remove timer from enclosure, there is thumb spring located top inside box. Push up on spring, hold onto timer dial, tip outward and lift upward.
Disconnect power before removing mechanism.
Override lever should snap back and forth crisply, and turn pump ON-OFF.
If override lever is not turning pump ON-OFF, then check that you have 240Volts across terminals 1 and 3. Check that timer dial is rotating and keeping good time.
Then move override lever to ON position and check if you have 240Volt across terminals 2 and 4. These terminals are Hot when pump is supposed to be ON.
Reset circuit breaker, may be tripped off on one leg, listen for crackling sound of loose breaker, use nose to smell for burning, tighten wires on breaker, move wires to another same-size circuit breaker.
Copy following links for troubleshoot resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

If timer is not functioning, then buy clock motor and trippers.
OR. You can buy the T104M mechanism-only, and snap into existing enclosure.
OR. It may be cheaper: Buy the whole T104 and snap out of new enclosure and install mechanism into existing enclosure.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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I installed a new T104 m for my pool pump. The clock works fine and it works fine manually. The on and off stops do not turn it on or off. The clock goes right past the on and off stops and they don,...

You installed new 240Volt T104 Intermatic timer.
Cause of problem is not determined, so read information below and then add a comment with further observations.

According to question:
Timer is wired correctly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
The on-and-off trippers are installed on dial, but do NOT click the override lever back and forth.
Both ON and OFF trippers are on the dial.
And the timer is NEW and not used, and trippers are NEW and not used.
And the dial rotates and keeps good time, making 1 full rotation each 24 hours.
And the manual override lever works and turns load (pool pump) on-and-off.

Open following link to view photo image of OFF tripper coming in contact with manual override lever.
Trippers are soft metal, and made to wear down. When tripper gets old, it will slide over the lever instead of move the lever.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/WH-lever-005-500.jpg
Open following link to read how to set timer, and see close-up images of timer with trippers on dial, and tripper order number for replacement trippers.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-operate-and-set-T104-timer.pdf

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I noticed the Tork 1104 timer box was not working. It does not make a sound. And the clock does not move. I measured the incoming and outgoing wires with a multimeter and both measure at 240V. I'm...

13 years is good run for clock motor. Timer will last longer than clock motor.
Open following link to identify timer
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101
Tork 1104 has 240Volt clock motor

Frontier lighting sells the >> 120V Tork motor: List price 40.33/ your price 45.49
So 120Volt replacement motor costs as much as new replacement timer
http://www.frontierlighting.com/product.jsp?part=10431&process=search&show=&&gdftrk=gdfV22514_a_7c834_a_7c3267_a_7c10431

Intermatic replacement is240 volt T104 timer for $49.62 with 'free' shipping:
Also Intermatic trippers and clock motors are cheap and easily available
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T104-208-277-Volt-Mechanical-Switch/dp/B000BQOX88
Crossover wiring from 1104 to T104.
Tork L goes to Intermatic 1
Tork 1 goes to Intermatic 3
Tork x goes to Intermatic 2
Tork 2 goes to Intermatic 4
Intermatic A is not used unless you have neutral wire or 277V
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

GE sells the same 240Volt Tork timer under GE model 15307 in indoor-outdoor enclosure available at Home Depot for $59.00. Year 2011, GE does not pay US income tax, but takes US profits and pays tax in foreign nations. No replacement clock motor is available, but crossover wiring is same.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306

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I have the same above T104 Mechanical Time Switch. It is hooked up to our outside lights. The timer will turn on the lights at the proper time. The timer properly turns off the timer at the turn off time....

If i understand correctly, you have T104 240V timer that has worked fine in the past.
If this is true, then breaker is correct size.

If this is new installation, then check wiring at timer, and then add up total watts of Load and divide by 240 to check if breaker is sized correctly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

If timer worked fine in the past: It seems you have a short somewhere, which is puzzling why it trips when when timer turns OFF.
And the short could be inside a bad breaker -or- inside the timer -or- possibly a wire.
Move wires from 240Breaker to another same-size 240V breaker and see if problem persists.

After moving wires to another breaker, use manual override to check if suspect is the breaker or possibly a short in the timer.
Absolutely stand on dry surface or dry boards when working on this timer, to be on safe side.
Manual override should switch Load on-off, and override should snap clean and crisp each time.
If manual override lever is not crisp, then that signals timer has gone bad.

Also snap mechanism out of box using thumb-spring at top of box, and look for signs of burning and high heat, especially at contacts.

If you buy new timer, the inside mechanism can be swapped out without changing the box.

Add a comment and let me know what you find out, and I will respond if needed.
This is interesting puzzle.
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My t1004r timer does not run any more. The manual switch still works. The problem may be due to rain getting inside. Does the whole unit needs to be changed out?

If manual override works, then timer is basically sound.

1) If dial does not rotate, then replace clock motor: T104 timer uses 240Volt clock motor. T101 and T103 use 125Volt clock motor

2) If dial rotates, but trippers are missing or trippers are worn down and no longer click on-off lever, then buy new trippers.
T100 series trippers and clocks are shown following link:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/timer-accessories/timers/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hi

3) If you have different timer than T101-103-104, then add a comment.

4) Clock motors are located on back of mechanism.
Mechanism snaps out with thumb spring located top inside box.
Clocks have identifying numbers: google search for that clock number if different that shown above.

5) If you buy new timer, then specify T104R.
R suffix is for raintight box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

6) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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geno_3245_241.jpg
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The timer clicked OFF but poot pump kept running. Had to trip breaker to stop pool pump.

Your Intermatic timer has a manual override.
The override is a good diagnostic.
Click the manual override and see if pump turns on and off.

Next, watch if the clock is rotating.
If the clock is rotating, the OFF tripper may be worn out and you need a new tripper

geno_3245_4.jpg

If the clock wheel is not rotating, you need a new clock motor.
If you have T104, your clock motor is 240Volts
If you have T101 or T103, your clock motor is 125Volts
Buy trippers and clock motors at Grainger
Clock motor replacement takes a small star-screwdriver bit
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/timer-accessories/timers/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hi

If your manual override is not working, then the gears might be rusty and need to be cleaned or your timer needs to be replaced.
You can buy same model number timer and then swap the insides without changing boxes.

Add a comment if you need more help.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
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Installed new T104 timer 3 mos. ago. Bldg. owner says the dial "hangs up" on pins--has to use manual on/off. Wiring is correct.

1) The clock motor might be bad if trippers hang up on pins
2) The timer might be exposed to dirt dust and moisture, in which case the T-104R raintight might be better
3) The tripper pins rotate around until they contact the tripper lever >> the pins push the lever >> new Intermatic timers have a bit of white grease on the lever where trippers contact
4) Test the manual override to see if it clicks back and forth crisp and clean >> the trippers click the manual override back and forth, so if override is sluggish, then timer might be bad >>> buy new timer and swap out insides without changing box
5) Sit and watch the timer and see if trippers hang up or they skip over the tripper lever> you might need new trippers. This seems odd with a new Intermatic timer.
6) The building electricity may have gone off and the timer is not set on current time and the bldg owner doesn't know how the timer works.

Timer accessories at Grainger
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/timer-accessories/timers/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hi

ae37c6e.jpg
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Hello i hooked up a t104 timer to a 220 pool pump i have 3 wires going to timer 2 hots and a ground the pump works correctly when timer is switched to manual but timer does not work can you please advise...

I assume it's an Intermatic T104. I believe this has a 230V motor, which is best for your application. Since you only have 2 hots and a ground I assume you're only switching one leg to the motor. That's why the timer won't run. It need 240V to run the motor. You need 5 wires. Two "hots" coming in, and two going out to the motor along with your equipment grounding conductior (green). This will disconnet all power to the pump when off. Pay attention that you put the two incoming leads on correct terminals which I believe is #1 and #3. That's because those terminals also power the clock. Then connect the motor to #2 and #4 which go to the motor. 1 closes to 2 and 3 closes to 4. The equipment grounding conductor connects to the GR terminal (Green)
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