I'm in need of an inexpensive timer, preferably mounted in a wallswitchbox, which has two output circuits, one from a n/o and one n/c contact. Can you recommend a model? Thank you

list of airbag flash codes.

12=Low Battery Voltage
13=Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground
14=Primary Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground
21=Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22=Safing Sensor Output Shorted to Battery Voltage
23=Safing Sensor Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24=Safing Sensor Output Feed/Return Circuit Open
32 Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
33 Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
35=Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41=RH Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open
42=LH Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open
44=RH Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45=LH Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
51=Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal FuseFuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to Ground
52=Backup Power SupplyVoltage Boost Fault
53=Primary Crash Sensor Circuits Resistance to Ground or Air Bag Diagnostic Fault

never saw a 49 code ,a weak battery or faulty battery connection
perhaps.
12=Low Battery Voltage
13=Air Bag Circuit Shorted to Ground
14=Primary Crash Sensor Circuit Shorted to Ground
21=Safing Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
22=Safing Sensor Output Shorted to Battery Voltage
23=Safing Sensor Circuit Input Feed/Return Circuit Open
24=Safing Sensor Output Feed/Return Circuit Open
32=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
33=Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open
34=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
35=Passenger Side Air Bag Circuit Low Resistance or Shorted
41=RH Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open
42=LH Primary Crash Sensor Feed/Return Circuit Open
44=RH Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
45=LH Primary Crash Sensor Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly
51=Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal FuseFuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to Ground
52=Backup Power SupplyVoltage Boost Fault
53=Primary Crash Sensor Circuits Resistance to Ground or Air Bag Diagnostic Fault

Model number is not known.
I did not know that Kitchler transformers have a circuit breaker.
Usually they have an override switch.
Did you set the timer to override, what does your product manual say?
Is the transformer humming? Kitchler transformer are supposedly non-audible, but there should be some indicating sound. The humming sound indicates the transformer is working.
Does the unit have photoeye? Cover photoeye with black tape.
Test outlet with circuit analyzer.
Check outlet voltage: if you have 120Volt then output is 10% or 12Volts. If you have reduced voltage, then output is still 10% but might be lower than needed to operate bulbs.
Plug timer into different outlet.
Test output terminals with low voltage tester.
Did you have power outage or nearby lightning strike? Transformers are not protected from surge.
Suggest you contact kitchler.
Kitchler.com website is useless
888-412-4877
7711 E Pleasant Valley Rd
PO Box 318010
Cleveland, OH 44131
Kitchler products are probably warranted through the seller.
Kitchler product manuals are almost non-existent.
Scan your product operating manual and parts list into .pdf format and post on web for others to access.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Intermatic phone number: 815-675-7076

T104RT3 has 120Volt 300 watt transformer with 12-13-14Volt output.

The timer mechanism is 240Volt T104M.

Since both 120Volt and 240Volt are needed, the wire coming from breaker box should have 2 Hots and a neutral, plus the ground wire.
So you need 12-3 with/ground wire or 10-3 with/ground wire.
See image of typical wires plus ratings:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
See example image showing 2 hots and neutral and ground coming from breaker box:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Basic-240-Volt-water-heater-circuit-2.jpg

The 2 hot wires come from a 240Volt circuit breaker.
The neutral comes from the neutral busbar, or can be accessed from tying into any white neutral on nearby 120Volt outlet.

How to wire timer:
Connect 240Volt hot wires to terminals 1 and 3 on timer. Connect 240Volt timed output to terminals 2 and 4 on timer.

How to wire transformer:
Connect 120Volt transformer two different ways. (a) white wire connects to neutral wire and black wire connects to terminal 1 on timer. With this wiring, the transformer is ON at all times. (b) white wire connects to neutral wire and black wire connects to terminal 2 on timer. With this wiring, the transformer will be ON when timer turns on.
Do not put both stranded wire and copper wire under same screw terminal. Instead connect transformer wire to solid copper wire using wire nut.

This is a code 46 LH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly. Often there is a poor contact on one of the wiring connectors. Some of the problems can happen from a poor connection where everything connects under the drivers side seat.
Here is a list of codes for the airbag light issues.

Air Bag Fault Code Table

AIR BAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR FAULT CODE PRIORITY TABLE

Priority Code Component/Fault Description

Highest -- No Air Bag Lamp - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor

' -- Continuous Air Bag Lamp - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative

' 12 Low Battery Voltage

' 13 Air Bag Circuit or Crash Sensor Circuit - Shorted to Ground

' 21 Safing Sensor - Not Mounted on Vehicle Properly

' 22 Safing Sensor Output Circuit - Shorted to Battery Voltage

' 23 Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open

' 24 Open in Circuit 944B or Low Resistance in Crash Sensor(s)

' 32 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open

' 33 Pin 7 Not Grounded at Diagnostic Monitor

' 34 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - Low Resistance or Shorted

' 35 Low Resistance Across Pins 8 and 9 at Diagnostic Monitor

' 41 Crash Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open

' 44 RH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly

' 45 Center Radiator Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly

' 46 LH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly

' 51 Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse - Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists

' 52 Backup Power Supply - Voltage Boost Fault

' 53 Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault

Lowest -- Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Lamp - All Crash Sensors Disconnected

Hope this helps...

1) It sounds like the clock motor is not operating correctly.

2) This timer is not supposed to be connected directly to the lighting circuit, and should control contactors instead.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#900
See what contactors look like
http://waterheatertimer.org/H230A.html

3) I cannot find replacement clock motor for that timer.

4) Tork 920L mechanical dawn-dusk timer seems to sell for $1200
http://kscdirect.com/item/NSI%2BT920L/NSI%2BINDUSTRIES%2BINC_120V%2B2-SPDT%2B20A%2B%2BLIGHTING%2BCONTROL%2BCENTER%250A

5) Contact NSI Tork directly to find sellers:
http://www.tork.com/contact.aspx

6) Intermatic shows 1:1 replacement for tork brand timer is Intermatic T51211BC
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/mechanical%20time%20switches/7%20day%2015%20amp.aspx
Electric wholesale on-line showsT515211BC timer for $1000.
http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/in7diwicat5.html

7) Contact Intermatic directly for more information, for example their second generation astronomic electronic time clocks can perform the same functions.
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/electronic%20time%20switches/astronomic%20electronic.aspx

Intermatic electronic Astronomic dawn-dusk ET8015C sells at 1000Bulbs for $179
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3384/ELEC-ET8015C.html?utm_source=SmartFeedShoppingcom&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=ELECET8015C&utm_content=LightingControls&utm_campaign=SmartFeedShoppingcom&thissku=ELEC777dash777ET8015C&site=www.shopping.com

8) Add a comment and explain what kind of electrical load you have, for example a small church with simple 120V lighting can use inexpensive timer like T101 that sells for $60 at Amazon. Timer trippers would need to be reset.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

1) You need 120V timer to control 2 amp water pump.
V x A = watts so 120V x 2amp = 240 watt
754 watts per HP divided by 240W = 1/3 HP horsepower.

2) To get 1 minute time periods, you need electronic timer.
Most electronic timers have minimum 1 minute set time.
Same schedule each day, you can use 356-day, 7-day or 24-hour electronic timer.

3) To have electronic timer last longer than 3 years you need a clean circuit and expensive timer.
Use circuit analyzer to check circuit. Hire electrician to check circuit and replace pump if necessary to make sure timer will last as long as possible.

4) Intermatic ET70115C should last for many years. Battery is replaced every 8 years.
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/electronic%20time%20switches/next%20generation%20time%20switches.aspx
ET70115C $379
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3391/ELEC-ET70115C.html

5) You posted under EH10 water heater timer, which is inexpensive water heater timer rated for 1HP. You can't expect inexpensive timer to last as long when using a motor, although 1/3 HP is lightweight motor.

6) You can buy five EH10's for same price as one ET70115C.

7) List of ordinary electronic timers, each with slightly different features
Intermatic EH10 $73
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-EH10-Electronic-Heater-Indoor/dp/B000GHIPOA
Intermatic ET1105C $96
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-ET1105C-Hour-Electronic-Switch/dp/B002X1FYWI
Intermatic ET101 $101
http://www.westsidewholesale.com/24-hour-programmable-electronic-timer.html
Tork EW100B $177
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/8434/TORK-EW101B.html
Sylvania SA300 $72
http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-SA300-120-Volt-Single-Pole-Industrial/dp/B000KKNEO4

8) See wiring diagrams and manuals for some of the timers listed above:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Boxtype.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Put black tape over photo electric eye and see if lights stay on without blinking.

Dusk-type yard stake has photo electric eye, which is visible as round glass ball.
Lights from circuit can cause photo-eye to think it is daylight, so circuit turns OFF.
Moment later, photo-eye thinks it's dark and lights click back ON

Usually 6-outlet yard stakes have 4 top outlets controlled by timer.
Normally bottom 2 outlets are ON full time.
Make sure bottom outlets are not blinking also, which implies problem with outdoor circuit or basic timer problem.
Check circuit with inexpensive circuit analyzer from Home Depot electric department.

Photoelectric eyes go bad easily, but usually they don't blink.
They stick ON or OFF.

You need a 60 minute cycle timer capable of running 12 cycles per hour.
Usually this type of timer is heavier duty for commercial applications like garden irrigation or misting, stock feeding, or cattle barn ventilation. Commercial applications require reliable long-term product with higher price.
Average mass market plug-in timer is lighter duty, and is used for turning on indoor lamp or outdoor christmas lights a few times per day. These timers are inexpensive 'corner store' items priced at 6-15$. There would be no mass market for for a plug-in cycle timer as specific as your requirement.

Intermatic makes a panel-mount digital cycle timer you could wire to short extension cord.
http://www.intermatic.com/products/grasslin/electromechanical

Tork ACT cycle timer is less precise, but could be wired to short extension cord:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=tork+cycle+timer
Tork sell sheet & wiring
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#cycle
At grainger\
https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cycle-timers/timers/act

Instal a relay (preferably in a mounting socket); Wire one side of the control coil to the +12v mainbeam 'on' circuit.
Take the other relay coil control connection to the additional 'Driving-lamp on' control switch (switched to ground).
Supply relay contacts 'common' with a fused +12V from battery - use wire with sufficient current carry capacity to feed driving lights. Connect switched +12V output to the driving lamps.