In my Amp when I increase the volume - the Amp will deliver full volume before it reaches the point 2 to 3 and above that it delivers very light increment of volume increase but with much no-clarity music. How to deal with this problem. It has something to do with Amp power or else to deal with volume control.

Have you got the right type of speakers connected to the unit? Because if the speakers can not take the power out of the unit on high volume, the system will shut it down to prevent overload. The speakers should be able to take the full power of the amp. For example it will be no use connecting 30 watt speakers to a 40 watt amp. You can of course use 30 Watt Speakers, but you can NEVER turn the volume control much pass 70%.
If the amp can deliver say 40W you need speakers of 40W or greater. Also never connect speakers that have a lower ohms rating than the stated. So if it says 8ohms on the amp you can connect 8ohms or greater speakers. Never connect 6ohms type speakers.

No. It is optimized to deliver 600 watts onto either 4 or 2 ohm loads but will decrease to 300 watts into 8 ohms. However that equates to only about a 3dB difference in output level from the sub. 3dB is the smallest amount of volume difference the human ear can pick up. A doubling of volume requires a9dB increase which requires a tripling of input power.

The SCR lower board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED's are color coded according to
their specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should always
be ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates a
treadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:
MOTOR (yellow) - The MOTOR LED illuminates when dc (direct current) voltage is sent to the drive
motor. The LED gets brighter when the dc output is increased.
RLC (yellow) - The RLC (R = Reactance / L = Inductance / C = Capacitance) LED illuminates when
the filtering system is properly working. The filtering system includes the capacitor and filter choke. If
there is a short in either component then the RLC light will not come on.
DN & UP (yellow) - The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays are
functioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending high
voltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.
AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage is
delivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWR
LED.
+12V (green) - When the proper AC voltage is delivered to the treadmill, passes through the in-line
fuse/s, through the full wave bridge rectifier (changes AC to DC), through the transformer (steps down
DC to +12vdc) then the +12V LED lights.
This the board LED, who control the signal for Main Motor+Elevation Motor. You must see, the LED DN+ UP( both will be Lit) in any position down or Up.
2) The RELAY board is designed with diagnostic LED lights. The LED's are color coded according to
their specific function. Green indicates a properly operating treadmill; the green lights should always
be ON when power is supplied to the treadmill. Yellow indicates a treadmill function. Red indicates a
treadmill malfunction. Here is a list of each LED and what it signifies:
AC PWR (green) - The AC PWR (Alternating Current Power) illuminates when AC line voltage is
delivered to the treadmill. It then passes through the in-line fuse (110)/s(220) and lights the AC PWR
LED.
VDC (green) - The VDC LED will light when it receives DC voltage from the DC power supply.
DN & UP (yellow) - The DN and UP LED lights tell us if the elevation DN and UP relays are
functioning properly. When the LED lights, it tells us that the relay has energized and is sending high
voltage (110vac or 220vac) to the elevation motor.
UPSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display
board to the elevation UP relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
DNSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper display
board to the elevation DOWN relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
BELTSW (green) - This LED will illuminate when the low voltage dc is delivered from the upper
display board to the belt (motor start) relay. This low voltage dc is what energizes the coil of the relay.
SPD (yellow) - The SPD LED flashes on and off (relative to speed) when the speed sensor is
operating properly.
PWM (yellow) - This LED will light when the upper board is sending a speed signal to the PWM.
Both the PWM LED and BELTSW LED must be lit for belt movement.
Finally this this Relay Board, the Each Led will be Lit, for any Relai control for DN down, or UP elevation motor. Use the contact cleaner, you can find it in R .Shack.
see the diagram attached.
God bless you

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hi,
Surlely you can connect these speaker to this amp . Your amp will deliver 150w at 4 ohms if you use 4 speaker setup. So keep in mind that, don't go for a high volume level. If you need higih volume level go for a speaker which will handle 150 w.

ok

Most commonly there could be a place where wires are touching from + and minus, check all wiring to the speakers. Extra speakers would create too much load, disconnect all the speakers. Check the wires and speakers by hooking one speaker at a time back up. Of course you must turn the receiver off every time you make any changes there. Add one speaker at a time.

If it's overheating it will shut off because its likely that you are asking for more then the amp can deliver. It's protecting itself. Try turning it down and gradually increasing the volume until you find the level below shutdown. If that fixes it that's all it can deliver.

What is happening is that your amp can deliver 1500 Watts at a given impedance. The Sub PROBABLY is a higher impedance. Your amp runs out of voltage due to the speaker impedance, hence it "flat tops" or clips.

You will probably find the sub is 8 ohms and your amp might deliver 1500 Watts on a 2 ohm system (this is "specsmanship" to sell their product... more is better thing...

If your amp was as above, the max voltage output would be the same before clipping but with the resistance 4 times, the current is only one fourth that which would deliver 1500 Watts. So you would only get 1500/4 Watts into the speaker or about 375 Watts.

conikelane: When you describe the light coming on under load, you when you have put the engine to work by bringing the RPM's above idle.
When you are at a standstill, the engine is at idle. when you start going, the engine speed increases and that is when the oil light goes on. When you go to shift gears, the light goes out momentarily.The reason it goes out is that the engine is dropping while you shift gears. From your description, you have a problem with oil starvation from the pickup tube in the oil pan in all likelihood.
I would bet you that if you pulled the oil pan, you would find that the screen on the pickup tube was nearly clogged up with sludge allowing only a small area for the oil to pass through which is why as the engine speed increases and the oil pump tries to pull more volume through the small opening, it starves for oil and it can not deliver what the engine needs thus causing the light to go on.

Water level safety shutting down heat source

Your amp might now have enough power to push the subs or you need to get a better amp kit that will deliver the power the amp needs to operate at a high spl lvl