How do I replace the bearing on the rear drum shaft? I've removed the back panel, the belt, also removed the nut and snap ring from the drum shaft that holds the bearing.

CHANGING THE DRIVE BELT
1. Remove the top cover and the rear panel.
2. T720/780: Remove the external fan housing.
3. Remove the special tool.
4. Remove the belt from the belt pulley and take off the belt.
5. Feed the belt over the drum onto the motor shaft and over the belt pulley.
6. Install the special tool.
7. T720/780: Replace the external fan housing.
8. Replace the rear panel and top cover.
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REMOVING THE TOP COVER
1. Remove the three T20 screws at the rear of the top cover. (Keep the two star washers.)
2. Tilt the cover and pull it backwards.

REMOVING THE REAR PANEL
1. Remove the top cover.
2. Unscrew the centering nut until the face of the nut is level with the end of the thread and knock out the bearing.
3. Fit the special tool (part no. 88 011 54) by fitting the tube end into one of the stamped out keyholes in the front rail. Lift the rear edge of the drum and press the drum edge onto the roller.
4. Remove the ground connection (yellow/green wire) from the input terminal block (see pages 8 and 9).
5. Take the cable bundle out of the cable clamp and pull the header block off its terminal pins.
6. Remove the wiring:
T700/T720: R1 a, R1 b, R1 13, R1 14, R1 34 on the contactor.
T760/T780: Ra, Rb, R13, R14, R34 on the contactor and F3 and F4 on the radio interference filter.
7. T720/T780: Remove the hoses to the water tank housing.
8. Remove the centering nut and the eight screws.
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NOTE: Do not remove or loosen the screws around the heater housing or drum bearing.
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9. T720/T780: Remove the three plastic screws at the lower part of the rear panel.
10. Lift off the rear panel.

REMOVING THE EXTERNAL REAR FAN HOUSING
1. Remove the top cover and rear panel.
2. Unclip the external rear fan housing suction side.
3. Unscrew the 10 mm nut on the external rear fan wheel and remove it.
4. Lift the external rear fan housing motor side and pull it toward you.

Dado

CHANGING THE DRIVE BELT
1. Remove the top cover and the rear panel (see page 26).
2. T720/780: Remove the external fan housing (see page 32).
3. Remove the special tool.
4. Remove the belt from the belt pulley and take off the belt.
5. Feed the belt over the drum onto the motor shaft and over the belt pulley.
6. Install the special tool.
7. T720/780: Replace the external fan housing.
8. Replace the rear panel and top cover.
_____________________________________________________
REMOVING THE TOP COVER
1. Remove the three T20 screws at the rear of the top cover. (Keep the two star washers.)
2. Tilt the cover and pull it backwards.

REMOVING THE REAR PANEL
1. Remove the top cover.
2. Unscrew the centering nut until the face of the nut is level with the end of the thread and knock out the bearing.
3. Fit the special tool (part no. 88 011 54) by fitting the tube end into one of the stamped out keyholes in the front rail. Lift the rear edge of the drum and press the drum edge onto the roller.
4. Remove the ground connection (yellow/green wire) from the input terminal block (see pages 8 and 9).
5. Take the cable bundle out of the cable clamp and pull the header block off its terminal pins.
6. Remove the wiring:
T700/T720: R1 a, R1 b, R1 13, R1 14, R1 34 on the contactor.
T760/T780: Ra, Rb, R13, R14, R34 on the contactor and F3 and F4 on the radio interference filter.
7. T720/T780: Remove the hoses to the water tank housing.
8. Remove the centering nut and the eight screws._____________________________________________________
NOTE: Do not remove or loosen the screws around the heater housing or drum bearing.
_____________________________________________________
9. T720/T780: Remove the three plastic screws at the lower part of the rear panel.
10. Lift off the rear panel.

Dado

What is the belt part number for Asko DryerModel # T702C

first check to see if you can manually turn the drum ..then go to back of dryer in the center their is a cover plate...remove 2 screws to see the drum shaft ...remove the snap ring to remove the 2metal washers..and 1 fiber washer ..their should be a fiber sleave/bearing that slides onto the shaft that is in a metal bracket ...this is the rear support for the drum ..its prob.. out of bracket an grinding a big er hole ///or the front of the dryer drum slides are bad ..if you did the belt they are on top of the front panel of the dryer door they are plastic slides ..the inside of the drum has to be ontop of them to rotate ....let me know an good luck.../joe/

Make sure you have plenty of well-lit space to work as well as lay out the parts removed. Remove the cabinet top by removing several screws from the rear, slide it back somewhat, then lift up. Remove the back panel by removing screws along the top rear, then lift up. Pull loose the rubber boot (it's glued to the cabinet front opening as well as to the outer drum face) CAREFULLY from the front panel opening. After uncoupling the drum motor, wiring, hoses, and suspension components, lift out the entire outer drum assembly. The case splits after removing a handful of bolts from the split circumference. Remove the large drum pulley and any snap-rings holding the large shaft in place. The inner drum should pull out of the rear case, but leave the bearings and seal in the case. The inner bearing and seal are prone to failure over time. The official fix is to replace the rear case (with new seal and bearings) for some 300 to 400 dollars. We chose to replace the bearing and seal from a local bearing supply house for about $16. It's still working well after over 10 years. Assemble in reverse order. Use 3M automotive trim cement for gluing the rubber boot back to the cabinet front. Hope this helps!

Remove the rear screws that are on two small silver plates on the left and right ends. These keep the top attached to the rear panel. Next take a flat tip screwdriver and pry up each front corner of the top panel. The tops front has retainers that snap in place. They will not break so do not worry. Next remove the top, unplug connectors and lay aside. Now remove any hardware to the front panel. Carefully remove the front panel and hold the drum upward while doing this. It will come off easier this way. Remove the door switch harness also. Now the drum can be pulled out. You will see the belt going through a belt tensioner. Also replace the tensioners pulley. The bearing in that will go bad soon and produce a squealing noise which will drive you nuts if let alone.
To reinstall the drum have a helper with you to hold the drum up while you install the belt.
Reverse this proceedure to assemble back together

YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE MAKE SURE ITS ON A SOLID LEVEL GROUND.THEN YOU REMOVE THE WHEELS THE BRAKE DRUM OR DISC.THEN YOU REMOVE THE NUTS THAT ATTACH THE OUTER SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE BACKING PLATETO THE AXLE SHAFT TUBE.DISCARD THE NUTS.REMOVE AXLE SHAFT FROM HOUSING.WITH AN AXLE PULLER ATTACHED TO A SLIDE HAMMER.DISCARD INNER AXLE SEALPOSITION THE AXLE SHAFT IN A VISE.REMOVE THE RETAINING RING BY DRILLING A 1/4 HOLE ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH THE RING. THEN USING A COLD CHISEL OVER THE HOLE.SPLIT THE RING.REMOVE THE BEARING WITH A ARBOR PRESS DISCARD THE SEAL AND REMOVE THE RETAINER PLATE.TO INSTALL - CLEAN THEN APPLY A THIN COATING OF WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE BEARING AND SEAL CONTACT SURFACES APPLY WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE LIPS OF THE REPLACEMENT INNER AND OUTER SEALS.INSTALL THE INNER SEAL WITH THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACING INWARD ENSURE IT IS COMPLETELY SEATED.INSTALL THE RETAINER PLATE AND THE OUTER SEAL ON THE SHAFT.ENSURE THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACES TOWARD THE AXLE SHAFT BEARING.PACK THE REPLACEMENT BEARING WITH WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT AND POSITION ON THE AXLE SHAFT PRESS INTO PLACE.PRESS A REPLACEMENT BEARING RETAINER ON THE AXLE SHAFT AGAINST THE BEARING.INSTALL THE AXLE INTO THE AXLE TUBE.POSITION AND ALIGN THE SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE AND INSTALL REPLACEMENT ATTACHING NUTS.TIGHTEN NUTS TO 32 FT LBS.INSTALL BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEELS LOWER VECHICLE. YOU SAID REAR BEARINGS IF THIS WHAT YOU MEANT.I HOPE THIS CAN HELP.

REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SOCKET
this is a messy job, you will need to remove the lid remove the front of the machine 2 -3 screws behind the clip on pannel front bottom I cant rember if the front hangs on two lugs one either side or if there are acouple of screws behind the faceplate, you will need to disconnect the door safty switch (make note of the wire positions), remove the wire band that clamps the door seal to the outer drum, now you should be able to see the drum and the drum outer casing, you will neeed to remove the access panel from the rear of the machine and if the belt has not already come off remove it , you notice a large nut holding the flywheel on inspect closely as there may be some securing tags (large washer with folded edges stopping the nut from comming undone ) remove nut , you will now need to remove the drum from the front of the machine using a peice of wood place on shaft and strike it with a heavy hammer or a mallet do not worry about damaging the shaft as you will need to replace this as well as the bearings as when bearings fail it is normaly to do with water getting to the bearing and corroding them (rust) untill they give up this normally damages the shaft, once the shaft is removed if you look through to shaft hole you will see the outer casing of the beaings thease need to be removed normally by tapping out (not always easy)there are two one at fromt one at back the back one is removed from inside the drum front removed from rear of machine , once this is all clear you are ready to the reverse putting it all together, the bearing kit should contain all you need to replace the bearings including the spider ( the three legged fitting that connects to the drum and has the shaft on it) when replacing the bearings make sure that where the old bearings come out of is nice and clean (fine sanpaper to remove small high spots) i use vaselene to aid bearing seating , using a rubber mallet genlely tap the edge of the bearing into place (never hit the center of the bearing as you could damage the seal and or the bearing) when the bearings are in smear some grease onto the shaft and rfit, a bearing kit trade is about 20 uk pounds

Hello, This is somewhat involved and time consuming, but if you are handy, it can be done. First unplug the dryer then start with the two screws in the hinges of the door and then the door lifts out. Two screws on the opposite side holding plastic spacers. Once these four screws are out the front panel tilts right out. The front panel will come off then 4 more holding on the front tumbler support and air duct. Removed wires from light and dryness sensor and clips holding wires to panels. Pull out the tumbler and removed belt. If your dryer gets a lot of use, then you might want to keep going and replace some more wear items while you have it apart. Remove the two drum support rollers and shafts by removing a nut on the back side of each shaft. Remove snap ring off each old shaft, install new rollers and fiber washers onto new shafts, reinstall snap ring and replaced on brackets with the old nut. Remove tension spring off idler pulley bracket and one screw holding on the bracket. Install new pulley and fiber washers on new bracket and reinstall bracket and spring. Placed new belt on tumbler and reinstalled tumbler. Used drill and bit to drill out pop rivits holding on the two front glides that are attached on the front tumbler support and installed new glides and pop riveted in. Reinstall front support and air duct checking that felt tumbler seal front and rear are in place. Placed new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Reinstall front panel.

A loose inner drum usually indicates a failed rear tub bearing. The only solution is to replace the rear half of the tub. (which contains the bearing).... You can check if the pulley nut has come loose by removing the rear panel. There is a large nut that retains the belt pulley to the shaft of the basket.