It's a power star ae 115 i have power to it 240 v

You might be having main power issues. Please contact a repairman/ service technician.

Did you test elements for continuity?

hi pruzek.
try this link might help you out.
LG dishwasher flashing AE error code Google Search

No power to the solenoid or the water inlet solenoid is stuck shut mechanically, or the solenoid is burnt out electrically. Test the winding of the solenoid to ensure electrical continuity. Test there is a voltage at the terminals of the solenoid when the water should be flowing in. If they both check out good you have a blocked solenoid valve.

C7 code has to do with your main fan. Either its not working due to it being blocked or having gotten wet/damaged/power surged, or your control unit isn't supplying the correct 120V to the fan. Your control has a ceramic fuse that you can test as well.
First, look for 120V to either the left or right pair of wires in the molex plug on the fan. if you have voltage, then the fan is bad. If you dont, its either just a fuse, the board is bad, or the fan is bad causing the fuse to blow. Insert the supplied spare fuse, and power up the unit. If it blows the fuse again, its the fan.

Turn circuit breakers fully off and then back on.
Use nose to smell for burning inside main panel.
Make sure you are getting 240Volt and not just 120V from one leg of the breaker.
Do stress test on breaker panel.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html#stress

Least expensive solution: Replace tankless computer for $285 buying tank-type electric water heater from local box store.

If tankless computer is new, then call installer.
If you installed it yourself, call professional installer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

This is a "point of service" tankless water heater that was manufactured by BOSCH. BOSCH is now Bosch-Climate.us. Technical support is available at 866-330-2729. P.S. check this site: http://tanklesswaterheaterz.com/bosch-ae-9-5-powerstar-1-5-gpm-point-of-use-indoor-tankless-electric-water-heater-reviews/

All resets and breakers trip with high heat.
Do you mean the tankless unit is tripping the 40 amp circuit breaker?
Or the thermal cut-out, located on unit, is tripping?

Is this a new installation?
Or was the tankless working before and stop working?

Copy following link to check wiring.
AE 9.5 requires 40 amp breaker and 6 gauge wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

If the unit is tripping the thermal cut, -out, then product manual says to call Bosch or service technician.
Call Bosch 866-330-2729
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch-Powerstar-AE3.4-7.2-9.5.pdf
Thermal cut-out can trip if water flow is too low.
Try changing power selector screw from Hi to Lo so only 1 element is ON. See diagram page 6 of manual.
Adjust the 'outlet service valve:' The manual recommends that a ball valve be installed between hot outlet and faucet. Adjust the valve so more water flows to faucet.
Remove aerator, clean aerator, don't use low flow restrictions or low flow shower heads, replace leaky faucet cartridge on single-handle faucet.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Bosch has 10-year limited warranty.
Probably the seller honors warranty first 90 days and Bosch afterward.

I think warranty is similar to car warranty where parts are covered, and they pay for parts to patch up the blown transmission but not give you a new car. But I hear of cases where the company just send a whole new Tankless unit and you install it yourself.

Contact Home Depot and present them with receipt.
Contact Bosch with the same information given in Fixya question.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html

Add a comment and say why unit broke down first time, and add what resolution was reached to help others with same question.

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

If water is totally cold, then upper element is not getting 240V. Since element tested for 120V, then that says upper element is burned out, upper thermostat is bad, or circuit breaker is bad.
Best thing is to buy multimeter and do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Also read information below for understanding how water heater works.

Testing elements for voltage can be misleading.
If water heater has 2 elements, then tank is 240Volts.
240V water heaters have 120V on each element at all times.
So elements have hot 120V power, but they are not turned on until the circuit is complete with 240V.
Open following links to read specifics about 120V and 240V
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html

240V is made from two 120V Hot wires from breaker box.
Each 120V line from breaker is called a 'leg.'
So 240V circuit has two legs, and both legs need to be turned on to complete 240V circuit.

Water heater thermostats turn off only one leg.
The other leg is Hot all the time.
So when you test screws on an element, for example test between a screw and any bare metal part of tank, then the screw will always show 120V.
That is just one leg of the 240V circuit.
But the 240V circuit is not turned On until both legs are connected.
Every residential circuit needs two wires to complete the circuit, and in the case of 240V, those two wires are both 120V.

When the thermostat turns on, it turns on the second leg to the element and that completes the 240V circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html