Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8674 Dryer Logo
Anonymous Posted on Mar 22, 2010

I have a Kenmore (Whirlpool) Elite HE5 Steam front load dryer. Everything seems to work fine except there is absolutely no heat. I checked the breaker, and it wasn't tripped. I checked the lint filter and vent hose which were both clear. HELP!! The clothes are starting to pile up since we can't dry anything nor afford hundreds in repair service call. Dryer was working as recently as last week and is less than 18 mos old. Dryer worked for 18 months at this house. I ran the diagnostics as shown on the manual taped inside the toe panel. The last fault code thrown by the dryer was F-31 "Line Voltage Error." The breaker switch wasn't thrown when I checked. I used a multi-meter to check the outlet and got 244. I tested the continuity through the electric cord to the wire harness. I tested all the connections at the wire harness, the electronics control board and at the heater element (inlet and outlet thermistor) and everything checked out (proper resistance, proper continuity, good connections). I still get the the L-2 error (low line voltage). Can anyone offer a suggestion?

  • Anonymous May 06, 2010

    I ended up rechecking the resistance on the heating element and found that was the problem. I replaced the heating element, and the dryer now works as good as new. thanks for the tip.

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  • Posted on May 04, 2010
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I think I know what the problem is, this actually happened on a dryer I repaired at one point. Low line voltage to me means that one or more hot leads is not feeding enough voltage to the heating elements (and the heating elements need both hot leads to run) which means the circuit breaker, although on, may be malfunctioning or weakening. You can check this by running your dryer and taking the cover off your circuit panel and checking voltage on the breaker. You should see 110V on each terminal to ground (put leads from one terminal to the grounding bar in the panel). If you see less than 110V on each lead to ground and less that 240V across the terminals it needs to be replaced. (You can get one for under $25.00 depending on brand). NOTE: THE BREAKER USUALLY POPS RIGHT OUT OF THE PANEL, BUT WHEN WORKING IN PANEL TURN MAIN BREAKER OFF TO THE HOUSE AND HAVE SOMEONE HOLD A FLASHLIGHT FOR YOU. IF YOU TOUCH THE LIVE BUSS BAR THAT BREAKER GOES INTO YOU WILL GET SEVERELY HURT. TURNING OFF MAIN BREAKER WILL DISENGAGE THE POWER FROM THE BUSS BARS; NOTE THAT MAIN WIRES ARE STILL POWERED SO BE CAREFUL.

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