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One of the pool pipes broke and the water froze in the heat pump & there is a crack in the pipe to the heat pump and the casing of the heating element. Does the whole heating element have to be replaced or just the casing?
I have the same problem with my aquacal and the warranty will not cover this part. So after 3 years it will cost me 1400.00 to fix it.I have the same problem with my aquacal and the warranty will not cover this part. So after 3 years it will cost me 1400.00 to fix it.
I have the same problem with my aquacal and the warranty will not cover this part. So after 3 years it will cost me 1400.00 to fix it.I have the same problem with my aquacal and the warranty will not cover this part. So after 3 years it will cost me 1400.00 to fix it.
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As far as I know, refrigerant is not used in the heating of pools and spas. Sounds like it is just a connection leak and can be fixed by redoing the joint connection.
Insulation only slows down the transfer of heat (cold), it does not stop it. If it is below freezing and the water in any pipe is not moving, it will eventually freeze. Most major industrial supply houses like McMaster-Carr or Grainger in the US, carry pipe tracing tape. It comes in various lengths and you secure it to the pipe under the insulation, plug it in and many types have integral thermostats that keep the pipe above freezing. If you have a washing machine, you will have to consider the lines to the washer valves, both hot & cold and any other areas in the washer that may hold water like the pump and the discharge hoses.
Was this washer always outdoors?
It sounds like you have a by-pass valve that is open. It should be closed down. You will find this on the pipes in and out of the heat pump. The valve will be between these pipes. When you close it you will force water through the heat pump so it can warm then go back to the pool. Now your water is getting warm then just sitting in the heater. When you close the valve you start the water flowing and their by heating.
You will need to get to the pipes with a torch or heat gun and melt the ice out allot of times when the pipes thaw out you may have busted pipes with long cracks running down the pipe. The best way to handle this is to turn off the water to your house and inspect the pipes I would go and purchase some heat tape and cover all the pipes in exposed areas (crawl space, attic, and basement) and let the heat tape thaw out the pipes. after about an hour turn off all your inside valves ( tubes, shower, sinks and the cold water to the water heater) then turn your water back on and watch the meter at the street if it spins then you may have busted pipes. 1- Turn off water at the meter by the street. 2- Thaw out pipes with torch or use the heat tape. 3- Close all valves in house including cold water valve at the water heater. 4- Turn water back on at meter and mark on the meter where the hand is now then watch to see if the meter is turning.
The heat tape will keep you from freezing pipes in the future.
Centrifugal pumps require priming with water before they will pump anything. Loosen one of the pipes and pour in as much water as will stay. Hope this helps!
The vent pipe should be in front of the pump so that the pump pushes towards the vent pipe NOT sucks from it. I hope this vent pipe is part of the heating system and not of the hot water Pumps like to push not pull and therefore it is better if the pump is located further down - say at the bottom of the cylinder or lower. With an indirect cylinder, the hot water & heating are separate circuits and are not and must not be interconnected. You will need a separate pump for the hot water which should be taken from the hot pipe coming out of the cylinder. You may get vacuation in the cylinder - then you will need an Essex or similar valve to replace the hot water outlet connection By the way - The pressure at any hot tap is directly related to the height difference between the tap and the header tank in the loft [thus a shower downstairs feels stronger than one upstairs] [email protected]
Chances are that the header or manifold is cracked. usually the heat exchanger themselves are not damaged from freeze, but either the rear manifold (header) or the front header (the one that pipes go in and out of). Sometimes both. Replacing the entire heater is not necessary, about $200 in parts usually. We have a schematic diagram of the LJ heater here: http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_heaters_lite2_lj_2003-present_pg1.htm
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