Chuck falls out of drill press

16 speed should have a Morse taper
for the std drill chuck

to fit a different chuck the morse taper needs to be emery sanded
and the replacement chuck should stick
after using the wood block pressure press method

if not you need a new morse taper for that spindle chuck


hint
i had my drill accuracy and off center spin tolerance down to one thou

with stretched old belts I got more speeds than 16
for special jobs
my 16 speed used a morse taper two for the drill chuck


this picture says its a spindle chuck
morse taper

this happens when the surfaces of the tapers both external and internal are damaged or have burrs
use fine emery paper to clean the surfaces
then put the chuck into the spindle taper and using a piece of wood pull the feed handle down rapidly so that the chuck is hit back up into the spindle

Look at eReplacementParts.com and the parts diagrams

Hello. Wrap a towel around the chuck and use a pipe wrench or a pair of channel locks to put a little force on the chuck. J.

Grizzly sells a nice variety of quality chucks at good prices. Look at the numbers on the chuck you have to determine what to buy. You should remove and re-use the taper from your present chuck. You probably have a Morse #2 taper up into the spindle like the picture shown below. I assume you know how to get that out of the spindle. What is not shown in this picture is the taper that is inserted into the chuck. This is probably a Jacobs taper. To separate that you need to support the chuck in a vise with the long taper pointing down. Put something below it to catch it without damage when it falls out. Open the chuck as far as it will go. Get a bolt (about 3/8) that you can hit with a hammer inside the chuck straight down to knock the taper out of the back of the chuck.

A Morse Taper chuck will work loose under side pressure.

If the spindle has a slot in it above the chuck and you can see the top of the chuck arbor in that slot then you need to get a wedged piece of steel commonly called a drift , insert in the slot so it bears on the top of the arbor and the top of the slot and hit it with a hammer. This will knock the tapered arbor loose from the spindle and it should fall out. Hope this helps you.

you can try using something like brake clean and spraying both the shaft and internal socket and then wiping with a paper towel. next move the table out of the way and place the shaft back into the socket with the chuck jaws retracted take a block of wood and a hammer and "tap" seat the tapers together. I would "tap" it a couple times and this should work if they are not worn excessively.

get something like brake clean and spray both parts the shaft and internal socket and then wipe with a paper towel. Next put the shaft into the socket and "tap" into place with a block of wood on the drill chuck with the jaws retracted. You might have to "tap" a little hard if you know what I mean but this will seat the tapers and you should not have a problem for a while.

While roughing up with sandpaper might work, but the usual problem that causes a chuck to fall off is a mismatched taper or either the chuck or the spindle has a dirty surface. The tiniest bloom of rust will cause this. Additionally a mismatch of depth will also cause a poor fit. To fit correctly the taper must be correct on both parts and they need to be clean and lightly oiled.

If it is necessary to san these pieces, use a very fine wet or dry paper. I would not use paper beyond 320 and use a light oil such as kerosene or diesel oil rather than water. Check the dept by looking inside at the wear marks. If the inside of the chuck receiver shows wear so close to the bottom that you cannot ascertain any distance between the wear marks and the bottom, the chuck may be bottoming instead of tightening on the taper correctly. You can easily check it with some fine shim material or perhaps three to five thickness of aluminum foil. Cut five thicknesses to fit in the bottom of the chuck (not all chucks have actual bottoms and go clear through) but not on the walls that are tapered. Reinstall, and remove. Is the aluminum foil damaged/show contact marks? If so, did the chuck go on all the way and come off more easily? If so, the problem is bottoming. Bottoming is quite rare but can happen when different than spec chucks are used.

You might also examine the surfaces of both. They should look pristine with no scratches and marks. If not, that could also be the problem. A correct taper fit is difficult to spin, or remove during normal drilling operations.

Good luck!