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Randy Sly Posted on Nov 14, 2019
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How can I get at the control panel at the bottom of the door on my Samsung OTR Model ME21H706MQS.

It is completely dead, inside light turns on when the door is opened but no clock and buttons do not respond. When I unplug it for a couple minutes, it will beep 5 times when it is plugged back in. Still unresponsive. I'm assuming the control panel is dead, how can I get to it? Restating the issue: How to remove the control panel which is in the bottom of the door, not on the side like most microwaves. I have removed the plastic trim around the window from inside the door, I have removed 5 screws which seem to be holding the inside window, but is seems glued on. Can I just pry this off? I quess it doesn't matter, the Microwave is dead anyway.

1 Answer

Leroy Elliott

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  • Samsung Master 425 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 26, 2019
Leroy Elliott
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The control panel will cost more than a new microwave

5 Related Answers

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 14, 2006

SOURCE: cannot open the door Dacor Model DMO24S

You will need to remove the outer wrapper, then separate the control panel from the microwave by removing the screw and then lifting the panel up and away. If you disconnect any wires, be sure to mark them, make a diagram or take photos first so you get them all back exactly where they were. The attached photo shows the area where two locking tabs are located. They must be gently pushed in to allow the door open button and spring to be removed. The door open button is part # 86778 (if your oven is black or stainless, part # 86778 if your color is arctic) and it can be obtained from a Dacor distributor such as http://www.apdepot.com This should be the same as a Sharp model R330BK (black model) and you can order that door open button from Tritronics. It is part # JBTN-B088WRF0 and they are at http://www.wehaveparts.com

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Anonymous

  • 317 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 26, 2008

SOURCE: No key's work. Display and inside light is working

The Keypad is either faulty, or disconnected. Open the case, and remove the screws, holding the outer shell on. Inside, there should be a small board that covers the Keypad. Check to see if there is a ribbon cable, or some other type of connection going from the board to another part of the microwave. If all of the wires are connected, then you will probably need to replace the keypad.

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 17, 2008

SOURCE: samsung MR6699GB

This model was one of many subject to a recall due to defective membrane keypads.

Details of the recall are here: http://www.allworldauto.com/recalls/NHTSA_03E044000__SAMSUNG_MICROWAVE_MR6699GB_recall_55168.html

Long story short, please unplug it and contact Samsung with you model and serial number at 800-932-3837.

If your serial number was not one subject to a recall, E2 usually means a temperature sensor problem but it may also mean you have a bad door switch.

If it's not in the recall, please post back and I can give you info on checking the other parts.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 21, 2008

SOURCE: microwave samsung suddenly stoped working

UPDATE

The -SE-error is a shorted keypad.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

If you would like to have us do this for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 08, 2009

SOURCE: sylvania p70d20al-d5 microwave keeps beeping

I have the same problem with my microwave, the clock disappears and it says "enter" and "amt", I figured out it's the "beverage" button that is sticking. When I want to use it I just press "beverage" and then "reset" and just press them over and over until it stops. Usually it's on the first try, sometimes I have to press them a few times. Just don't do what I'm about to type though, I decided to get my razor knife and cut the button out carefully, I only cut the contacts on each side of the button, now no buttons work, I should have left it the way it was, at least I could use it that way.

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The most common location for a fuse on an OTR unit is behind the control panel. If you remove the control panel, you should see it. Another common location for the fuse would be near where the power cord enters the cabinet.

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Is it an over-the-range (OTR) microwave or a countertop microwave? If it's an OTR microwave, are you talking about the light(s) on the bottom of the microwave, or the one that lights up the cavity when you open the door or run the microwave?
If it's an OTR microwave, and the cavity light is burned out, you MAY be able to access it by removing the grill vent by removing the 2 to 4 screws above it. Then, depending on the model, either slide the grill vent to the left and pull it out, or else pull out the top part of it first. Then, if there is one, you may see an access cover behind the grill vent. Unplug the microwave, then remove the 2 screw that holds the access cover in place, and lift up and remove the cover. You should now be able to get to the light bulb.
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No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

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No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

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We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so.

At our Web site, you can get details of our service, plus we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or no bright, too. Sometimes this will similarly affect the exhaust fan operation or inside light, too.Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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I would suspect you have a bad door switch or door switch mount.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

This can be caused by slamming the door or by habitually opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

If you think the problem is on the control panel, which we repair these nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

Please write back with your model number if you need further help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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