Recently i put new chrome upper and lower forks on my 2008 ultra classic noticed a small oil leak at the bottom of the right fork a 6mm allen head bolt with a flat brass washer, washer needs to be replaced. Problem is the bolt and the Damper Tube are spining together the bolt wont let go.

Loosen the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug at the top of the fork tube, but do not remove it at this time. THEN loosen the pinch bolt (with lockwasher) in the lower fork bracket, but do not remove it. THEN spray glass cleaner like Windex on the fork tube above the rubber fork stop and after so lubricating the surfaces move the fork stop up the fork tube until it contacts the bottom of the upper fork bracket. THEN, while holding the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and slide the fork tube down and out of the upper fork bracket, the fork stop, the lower fork bracket, and the slider cover. THEN thread the fork cap bolt back into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while handling the removed fork assembly. THEN move the fork to your work bench area and place a suitable drain pan on the floor underneath your vise. NOW or later you can similarly remove the other fork tube assembly.

IT IS HANDY to have a HD-41177 FORK TUBE HOLDER or similar tool.

On the first fork remove the nuts, the lockwashers, the flat washer and the axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider. THEN clamp end of a fork holder tool in your vise in a horizontal position with the tightening fasteners facing toward you and with the fork cap bolt at the top clamp the fork tube in between the rubber pads on the inside of the tool and tighten the fasteners to securely hold the fork tube assembly. THEN remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and remove and throw away the quad ring seal. Thenslowly unthread the fork tube plug from the fork tube being AWARE that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure which requires you to have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. THEN remove the O-ring from fork tube plug and throw it away. THEN remove the fork spring from the fork tube and remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. THEN turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into the drain pan by slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times being aware that the damper valve, if it has one, may fall out of the inverted fork tube while you are draining it. THEN With the wear ring at the bottom, i.e. with the spring side up, slide the damper valve back into the fork tube when it has been fully drained.

THEN for further disassembly install the fork spring back into the fork tube place a shop rag on the floor, and turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of spring against the rag. Push down and compress the spring to prevent the damper tube from turning and then remove the6mm screw from end of fork slider with a strong short stroke impact wrench and 12 mm Allen socket adapter for best results. When the screw and washer are removed throw away the 6mm screw and copper crush washer. THEN remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if it has one) and the damper tube from fork tube. THEN remove the wear ring and the rebound spring from the damper tube and it has one, from the damper valve, if it has one. Then without expanding or stretching the retaining clip to avoid it becoming bent or distorted, remove it from the fork tube. THEN, using an appropriate pick tool, remove the retaining clip from between the fork slider and the fork tube and remove the fork tube from the fork slider. Use the fork tube as a slide hammerwith a moderate amount of force until the fork tube separates from the fork slider. THEN slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off of the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork oil seal and the slider bushing. THEN gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing, and remove it from the groove at the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork leg bushing. THEN remove the lower stop fromthe fork slider.

THEN thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts. And replace all parts that are bent, broken or otherwise obviously damaged. Inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug O-ring for cuts, tears or other signs of deterioration and replace whatever is necessary and/or prudent. THEN replace the retaining clip if bent or distorted and check the slider and fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing is damaged or worn THEN also check the fork tube and the slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace all parts as necessary and/or prudent. THEN set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure the runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace the fork if runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm). THEN inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion and replace the upper fork spring if the free length is less than 18.4 in. (467.3 mm) and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or otherwise whenever the upper fork spring requires replacement.
To reassemble the fork coat the fork leg bushing ID with clean fork oil and then expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only so far as required to it slip over the end and into the groove of the fork tube. THEN install a new wear ring in the groove at the top of the damper tube and install the rebound spring on the opposite end. Now, with the wear ring on the top side slide the damper tube into the fork tube, so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube. Now install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube and put the fork slider back into your fork tube holder. THEN slide the fork tube into the fork slider. NEXT coat the slider bushing ID with clean fork oil and install the slider bushing down into the fork tube and then slide the slider spacer down the fork tube until it meets the slider bushing and then get your fork oil seal installer tool and it down the fork tube and drive the slider bushing and spacer into the bore of the fork slider and then remove the tool and THEN put some masking tape over the top edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation and then coat the new oil seal with new fork oil and install the seal with the garter spring facing into the fork tube and slide it down to the bore of the slider and the earlier installed spacer and then remove the masking tape and with your fork seal installation tool drive the seal down into the top of the slider until you can insert the retaining ring and then again remove the seal driver tool and install the retainer ring into its slider groove. NOW slide the fork spring into the tube and remove the fork assembly from your fork tube holder and with a shop towel or rag on the floor turn the assembly upside down and press the spring against the shop towel or rag and install a new 6mm screw with a new copper crush washer through hole at bottom of fork slider and start to screw it into the end of the damper tube. Continue to compress the spring into the assembly to stop the damper tube from turning and tighten the 6mm screw to 132-216 in-lbs (14.9-24.4 Nm). After this remove the fork spring from the fork tube and again clamp the fork slider (NOT THE FORK TUBE) into your fork holder tool with the fork tube on the top side and if it was previously removed install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider and tighten it to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

THEN refill with the correct amount of fork oil. It is very important for the correct and safe operation of the bike that the CORRECT amount of oil be installed. FOLLOW the correct procedures for doing this.

Use a long 6mm allen to remove the bolts. Tap the centers of the allen bolts with a hammer and punch to loosen them before removal. I always use a butterfly air tool to remove them. Super easy! You'll want to replace the allen bolts and copper washers when assembling the forks.

Without knowing what year and model bike you're working on, I'll have to be "general" in my explanation. To change the fork seals, you must either take the upper and lower fork tube assembly out of the triple trees or be able to lift the bike at least 12 inches off the floor. Once you havef drained the tube by removing the small screw in the trailing side of the slider and worked the fork oil out, taken the front wheel off, the front caliper(s) off and the fender or removed the forks from the triple trees, look at the bottom end of the slider (lower fork). You'll see a special socket head bolt in a recess under there. It takes a 6mm allen wrench or hex key to remove the bolt. It is designed to take a special "piloted" key but you can get it out with a NEW hex key. I prefer one of the hex key sockets that will fit onto an air wrench. It works a lot better. Take the bolt out and the slider comes off the bottom end of the upper tube. Take the rubber boot off the slider, the retainer ring and pry the seal out.

Good Luck
Steve

To take the forks apart, first get the fork tube out of the triple trees. You'll probably have to take the top cap and the large spring out to do this as the top cap probably holds the fork turn in the upper triple tree. Loosen the pinch bolt on the lower tree and slide the fork tube out. Empty the oil out of the top of the tube. Notice the spring as you take it out. It' probably has a tapered end on it. That should go to the bottom of the tube when you reinstall it. To get the tube seperated from the slider, look on bottom of the slider where the axle came out. You'll see a socket head bolt under there. It takes a 6mm allen wrench to get it out. Some of them use a "piloted hex key". This is a special allen wrench or hex key with a small point on the end of it to fit into a hole in the center of the bolt. As a result of this, the hex part of the bolt is very shallow. You can get the bolt out if you use a new wrench or one that has not been rounded on the edges. A hex key is pretty hard but you can file a used key off to get fresh points on it. The chrome cover over the rubber cover usually just pushes down over the original rubber boot on the top of the slider.

Good Luck
Steve

If, notice I said "if", your bike has the standard 41mm wide glide front end, changing the fork seals is not that difficult.

Get the bike up off the ground on a stable lift. Safety is paramount.

Now take the front wheel and fender off. Take the large "Bolt" out of one of the fork tubes at the upper triple tree. There are special sockets made to do this with so that you won't scratch your chrome upper tree. Loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Put some lubricant on the fork tube and work it down and out of the triple trees. You may have to spead the lower triple tree by driving a chisel into the slot from the bottom side.

Once you have one of the fork tubes out. Remove the plug at the top. There will be a large spring under the plug. Usually it doesn't have much pressure on it with the tube fully extended and if it's the stock spring. With the plug and the spring out, you can pour the oil out of the tube. Notice which direction the spring comes out of the tube. I must go back in with the tapered end down.

Look on the bottom of the tube where the axle goes through. You'll see an allen head or socket head bolt in there. It' should be an 8mm sized bolt but it takes a "piloted" hex key. Now, you can use a standard hex key but it must be in new condition since the bolt head is so shallow. I have found that a hex key socket used with an air wrench is best to get the screw out. With the screw, you can now seperate the upper fork tube from the lower slider.

Remove the retainer ring in the top of the slider and pry out the old seal. Install the new seal in the proper direction. Reassemble the fork assembly. Now, add the proper amount of oil to the tube before you install the upper plug. The forks take 10.2 to 11.2 ounces of oil each. The lower figure is for a "Wet" refill and the higher number is for a "Dry" refill. If you take your fork tube apart and pour out all the oil, use the "dry" figure of 11.2 ounces type "E" or 30 weight fork oil. If the forks are too stiff with this oil, drop back to 20 weight fork oil.

Good Luck
Steve

The headline of your post seems to have it correct, you have a fork seal leaking. To replace the seal, you must remove the fork slider, the lower part of the fork tube to replace the seal and then refill the fork with the proper amount of the proper oil. Here's how you do it on a conventional front fork. This is not for an "inverted fork" where the top part is larger than the bottom.

Remove the front wheel, the caliper if it's on this side or you decide to do both sides. Loosen the pinch bolt on the back side of the lower triple tree. Remove the large nut on the top side of the upper triple tree. Caution: there is a large spring under the nut. Usually, if the bike is completely off the ground, the sping is almost fully extended but it will still have some pressure on it. Remove the spring and work the fork tube out of the triple trees. Turn the thing upside down and pour the oil out of it. Notice in the very bottom of the lower slider where the axle goes through, there is an 8mm hex head bolt. Using a brand new hex key, remove this bolt. A hex key socket on an air wrench helps to remove this bolt. It takes a "piloted key" but you can get it out with a regular one as long as it new and not rounded. Once the bolt is out, pull the top tube out of the lower tube. You'll see the oil seal in the top of the lower slider. Pull the seal out and replace it with a new one. Reassemble the entire assembly and install back into the triple trees. Add the proper amount of the proper weight oil. This is what is commonly called a "dry" fill since you took everything off and wiped it down. Then insert the spring tapered end first and put the large nut back on the top.

Then do the other side if you wish. Only do one side at the time. The remaining tube that is put together helps hold the tube you're working on extended.

Good Luck
Steve

There is a seal in the "slider" of the front fork, the part that moves up and down. I haven't had a chance to work on the later forks but the earlier 41mm forks are quite simple.

Start by taking the drain plug out of the bottom of the slider and work the slider up and down to blow out all the oil. Then, remove the front wheel. Remove the top cap from the upper tube and loosen the top plug. Now, with the top plug loose, loosen the pinch bolts and slide the fork out of the triple trees. Remove the top plug carefully, There is a BIG spring in there. Once you have the plug out lift the spring out and set it asside. Notice the tapered end of the spring. It goes back in first. Turn fork tube upside down and allow as much oil to drain out as possible.

Now, look at the bottom of the slider where the axle goes. Up in a hole there is an allen head bolt. it is designed to use a special wrench but a regular 8mm allen key in GOOD shape will take the bolt out. It's best to use an air wrench to do this with. With the bolt out, the slider should slide right off.

Down inside the top part of the slider is where the seal is. Theres a snap ring, a spacer, and a seal. Replace the seal and put a little oil on it to assist reassembly. Put everything thing back together and add the appropiate about of oil. Since your forks are much larger than mine, I have no specs as to the quantity. The owners manual should tell you or a call to a local Harley dealer. Sorry but thats a good as I can do. There is a "wet" measurement and a "dry" measurement. Since you disassembled your fork, use the "dry" quantity of oil

If you ask this question YOU should not be doing it! but your *** on the seat not mine.
Remove ...........front wheel, front fender,top fork cap and loosen lower triple clamp bolts under head light cover, forks are now out!
Remove 6mm bolt at the bottom of the fork leg and drain oil,remove dust seal and wire clip, now remove the upper fork nut (the spring will jump out at you).Pull the leg and tube away from each other, the old seal will stay on the tube..clean and reassemble driving NEW seal down into place with wire clip.....refill with oil

If you mean triple clamp, do not ride it. Pull tires and tubes and replace. Do not weld

Just a thought.Aren't late model sportster forks,on the 1200"s,49mm?Check that manual to see if the procedure is the same.If not then guess which one is right.Don't know bout late models but the early mm lower sliders had a fiber washer that could get damaged if the last assembly bolt,allen head,wasn't put in just right.Good luck.