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Make sure your presser foot is tight down. If the needle is going from side to side, it's doing it's job. If the stitches are coming out straight, the material is probably slipping back and forth to center area. The presser will eliminate this.
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So your set up to sew zig/zag and only get the zig or the zag : )
Could be top thread tension is too high. Switch to a straight stitch and reduce tension until top thread starts to appear on bottom. Then go back to zig/zag and see if it sews properly.
If still dropping stitches, check the needle is not bent and is fully inserted into the holder. Clean the bobbin, hook, and race per machine instructions. Try reducing the stitch width and see if that makes any difference. If still not right then timing may be off.
Unless your manually operated sewing machine has switches to realign your sewing machine needle to make zig zag stitching, as is demonstrated in this YouTube video (starting at around 6:30 minutes in the video): https://www.fearlessmakers.com/manual-sewing-machine-works/
you cannot. Note: The machine in the video is a Necchi brand sewing machine.
Without knowing the model number of your manually operated Singer sewing machine, I cannot try to find operating instructions for it to determine if your machine has zig zag stitching potential.
The stitch Width selection regulates straight-stitch or zig-zag width. Needle position does not determine straight or zig-zag. Needle position just determines whether the needle's home position is center, left, or right. Needle position can be used with straight or zig-zag stitching.
I can't tell whether you mean straight stitching and then turning your work 180 degrees to stitch atop the straight stitches in zig-zag, or continuing around the corner of your straight stitched side using zig-zag. But you can do either. You can mix up straight and zig-zag stitching at will.
Just ease up to a stop, ensuring the needle is positioned down inside the work when you stop.
Lift the foot.
Adjust to your desired stitch setting.
Lower the foot.
Turn the wheel toward you manually to ensure the stitches will be placed where you want them, and
Slowly engage the power again (via foot or thigh lever).
Hmmm sounds like an issue I had/have with a singer stylist. There is a knuckle part that connects the zig zag mechanism to the needle bar. Mine had a pin that kept slipping out. When I took it apart (and lost the pin) I also discovered that the "round" holes the pin went into were work out and were more like ovals. The machine is now a parts machine.
put in a new needle rethread the machine top & bobbin--use every thread guide make sure the zig zag settings are correct it's also possible that the machine could have a worn or damaged gear or cam--which would have to be checked at a sewing machine shop
When you select a pattern does the needle move back and forth? do you make sure the stitch width lever is on straight stitch then select your pattern then select the widest stitch width? if when you select a zig zag stitch the needle does not move from side to side then you need to look in the top at the finger that goes round the cam.
Did you switch the metal plate to one of the ones that won't allow left/right movement by any chance? If the wrong plate it in -The machine somehow figures out that the plate won't allow the needle to move in the left/right directions and only does a straight stitch or funky other stitches.
Because it is almost a straight stitch but the needle continues to move in a zig zag fashion is reason to believe it is in a long stitch. By changing the number of stitches per inch there will be a very noticeable looking zig zag stitch.
I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zigzag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.
1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.
2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.
3. Put the zigzag foot on the machine.
4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.
5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zigzag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zigzag foot.
6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zigzag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.
7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.
8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zigzag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.
9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.
10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.
11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.
Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.
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