When embroidering script in the Plus Hoop, the P1 position stitches out beautifully. When starting the P3 position, a few letters stitch out in the upper right of the hoop, then upon repositioning, the needle drags across the fabric, snagging or breaking. The continuity of the design is lost, of course, and must be started over.
I've tried several solutions, to no avail. This is a reoccurring problem.
The machine stitches out the ordinary 4x4 designs perfectly well.
Here is what I am using:
Husqvarna Rose 605 Plus Hoop Schmetz embroidery needles Imperial Batiste fabric Wash Away stabilizer Spray Starch 40 Wt. Rayon thread 2 ply embroidery bobbin thread
I would really appreciate a solution from an experienced tech in this area. Thanks so much.
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You could use an applique (satin) stitch freehand on your machine. But, it takes some practice with steady hands to get it to look nice.
In the video, she uses a heat bonded stabilizer. If you don't use a bonded stabilizer, you'd want to put the fabric and stabilizer in a hoop to keep the fabric tight. If you are going to manipulate the fabric manually, you also would drop the feed dogs.
It's okay - it's supposed to do that! The Needle Down button has a different function when you are in Embroidery mode i.e. you have the emb. unit attached. It moves the emb. arm forward for two reasons: so you can cut top-side jump stitches more easily between colour changes (you touch the button again and the emb. arm returns to under the needle so you can finish the design); and secondly so you can "park" the embroidery unit when you are finished. You can then turn the machine off, remove the emb. unit and replace it in the carry case. If you DON'T do this, the emb. arm is not in the right position to fit into the moulded carry case properly.
The Broken Thread message usually means that it has started the colour, but the thread has been pulled down underneath instead of making nice locked stitches. Hold onto the thread end until the machine has stopped and beeped for you to cut the thread. This usually solves that problem. Sometimes the thread gets pulled out of your hand so just back up the stitches a few and start over, holding the thread more tightly. Don't tug on the thread - just keep a firm grip.
Designer 1s often cut the bobbin thread too short so that it can't make those nice locked stitches when it starts. You need to take off the hoop, open up the bobbin cover and use your stylus, the tip of a pair of scissors, tweezers (whatever is to hand) to pull the bobbin thread out a little. Instead of cutting it on the bobbin thread cutter, just let it hang outside by 1/8" or so. That way you can be sure there is enough bobbin thread available for the stitch to lock. Don't use the scissors button on the machine after every colour change. Sure, it makes for a tidier back of the embroidery with less work for you afterwards, but if it means you are taking the hoop and bobbin cover off after every colour change then it is not worth it in time-saving. If your machine is doing this - cutting the bobbin thread too short - mention it to your tech. when you machine goes in for its next service. He may be able to tweak the bobbin cutter so it does not cut so close.
What do I need to get
started at free machine embroidery?
A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other
words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to
feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your
zigzag stitches too.
An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An
embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the
throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see
what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can
alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into
it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in
that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but
they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to
replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle
with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with
spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery
hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood,
has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring,
separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place
the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull
the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you
squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place
the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still
squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop
is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better
tension on the fabric.
Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while
you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some
are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're
done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery,
as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also
papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water,
leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your
authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent
plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your
authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very
nice. It's expensive though.
Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery
hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the
piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the
piece from the fabric.
Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary
polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the
fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may
want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when
you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery
Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so
you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of
that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought?
Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel
that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the
bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread
will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a
problem with this to date.
How do I prepare the machine
and fabric for free machine embroidery?
Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't
set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that
important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any
stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric
is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to
embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the
fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the
table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right
side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or
special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If
you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place
the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift
the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to
remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then
re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing
machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until
stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
How do I lock the thread at
the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to
Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.
After I stitch out the p1, I have to go back and load the p2 design and continue stitching after I adjust the hoop to the p2 setting. Then I do the same thing with the p3. It is a pain to go back and forth, but it works!
You may need to have the embroidery unit serviced. The slide rods in the embroidery unit will get dirty over time and must be cleaned and lubricated. If not, the mechanism can not slide freely and you will be unable to keep the unit calibrated while stitching a design. You could attempt to disassemble and clean it yourself, but if you bring it to a repair center in pieces or improperly assemble your repair is going to cost a lot more than it will if you go today.
You can find the solution by following these steps-
Slide in embroidery card 21 and companion cassette. Touch Embroidery ON.
Touch FUNC to Program mode, The “E” inside the hoop will appear on the left end of the Program display window. If Plus Hoop programming is desired, touch the rotational arrow E one time and you will see the hoop in the Programdisplay window change into a Plus Hoop with a small arrow pointing to the top portion of the hoop, indicating position 1.
Toward the right side of the Program display window are F1 S1 M1. F1 = Font style (1, 2 or 3), S1 = Size (1 or 2) and M1 = Menu (1, 2 or 3).
(Note: Programmed letters are always displayed in block)
SIZE: Select 1. Large 30mm 2. Small 12mm MENU: Select 1. Upper case, 2. Lower case, or 3. Numbers and Symbols—check Program display for upper or lower case indication. Note: You must select the Font, Size and Menu before selecting the letter desired. Do rate the solution accordingly.
The plus hoop is a multi positional hoop that allows you you to embroider designs up to 4" x 6". It is essential for monogramming and lettering using your Rose. The Rose hooping system is the same as the 1+, the Scandinavia 300 and 400.
The designs you use must be formatted for the plus hoop. That is, the design has already been divided into two or three elements. Each element is an individual design. For instance, say the design is a long stemmed rose. It would probably be divided something like this: design 1: the flower and the top part of the stem, design 2: The middle part of the stem and the leaves, design 3: the bottom part of the stem.
You would hoop up your fabric to be embroidered, attach the hoop to the machine, set the hoop to position 1, select design 1, stitch out design 1, set the hoop to position 2, select design 2, stitch out design 2, set the hoop to position 3, select design 3, stitch out design 3. You should have a complete design when you're done and everything should match up perfectly!
The hoop is divided up into three squares, 4" x 4". Position 1 square overlaps position 2 square and position 2 square overlaps position 3 square. This overlapping allows the designs to stitch out more smoothly.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have further questions. Carrie
Hi Ann, m-memories are not stitched with the hoop or embroidery unit. They are stitched with the #2 sewing foot and with the feed dogs up just like any of the 9mm decorative stitches on the machine. Linnette
Does it pucker when you are embroidering or just sewing in general? If its puckering when your embroidering it could be a few things. 1. no stabilizer 2. the fabric stretched in the hoop too tight. 3. check you tension