When my bass hits, my car lights flicker.

We used to use what we call bass blocker capacitors on the component speakers to block the bass coming from the head unit and to allow the bass to only come from the subs...there is several values of these capacitors that you can use(different values correlate to different frequencies). These type of capacitors are available at Radio Shack. You will need to request a NON-POLARIZED Electrolytic capacitor at a voltage rating of not less than 25 Volts...As for the value of the microfarad rating..you may need to experiment with different microfarad values to get the sound you desire...standard microfarad values are 1uF, 2.2uF, 3.3uF, 4.7uF, 10uF, 22 uF, 33uF, 47uF.
You probably won't need to go any higher on the value than those listed....in my experience, I have found the 4.7uF and 10uF to be good for most speakers...to install these...you need to put one inline with the positive lead to each component speaker.

The most I can suggest for getting the shine back to the bass is to run an EQ before your preamp. Make sure all sliders are set to zero, then raise the higher frequencies until you get the sound you're looking for. This won't lose any growl, just accentuate the brilliance.

The best EQ to use would be a BOSS Bass Equalizer. You can use the same on your old T-Bird to accentuate the lower frequencies, and get almost the same sound.


Hope that helps!

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_463100ffd54b591d

it depends on what accessories you're running. If your vehicle has every electric option under the sun, you would want the higher output alternator. Same if you were running a high-output stereo or something like that. It all comes down to what you need.

Just get about a 1 farad capacitor. The only problem with this is, now your alternator will be under unwanted stress and will more than likely go bad ove time. With a stock alternator it is likely to not be made for that much power. The problem is, that now, it doesnt just have to keep the battery charged, but it also has to keep the capacitor charged.

With an amp like that you can not pull enough power from you cars battery alone. That is why when it hits hard it drains the amps from your battery and you amplifier cuts out. The light on the amplifier most likely dims when the bass hits. You need to get a capacitor. They are easy to hook up on the main power wire. You can get one from http://phatcaraudio.com/capacitors.html or get a used one off ebay.com. Good luck

Yes you could be right about the power supply capacitors as they have a tendency to dry out. Another tip is to inspect the terminations of these capacitors and clean their contact points as often the screw and screw boss is a different metal and corrosion and electrolysis occurs between these and the main power supply connectors. If in doubt clean with a scotch scourer till shiny metal is exposed on connection points. Then coat contacts with electrical contact conditioner (lanolin grease is good too) before reassembly.

Some amplifiers do not have sufficient storage to sustain high bass levels into difficult speaker loads, the Mac should not be one of these however . To verify that your dedicated AC outlet is not a limiting factor - use a power board and plug an incandescent lamp into the same point as the amp and see if you see any flickering of lamp when the amp lights dim.

If no evidence of limiting of main power and connection maitenance does not solve the issue, replacing the capacitors is indicated.

your battery and/or charging system isnt strong enough to handle the load the 15" subwoofer is causing.

you will need to add a capacitor to your audio system.

Sounds like you need to invest in a capacitor. Those are used when subs receive a bass spike. You just a need a 1 Farat Capacitor (1,000 watts) ran between the head unit and the amplfiier to fix your issue. Also, try reducing the volume gain to half gain and low pass frequency to half gain; this will increase your clarity and make your amp less hot. This may fix it without a capacitor. Also find out what amprage your alternator is. Your alternator may not be designed to run the amplifier. Most alternators are 200 amps now if they are gold plated.

Hope this helps

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The sound system is exceeding the capacity of the Alternator, it takes allot of power to run the subwoofers, they make higher output alternators for just this situation, u will need one with at least 130 Amps output.

Had a similar problem, mine was a power problem.
Power meaning voltage.
Those big bass speakers draw lots of power. My original alternator couldn't keep up.

Question: Do your headlights dim in rhythm to the bass hits?

If so, your sound system wants more power than your vehicle is producing.

My first solution was a high output alternator. It worked great.

Then I added another amp. Not great anymore.

My second solution was to tie in a large capacitor to the amps power supply. (These a big (1 farad), about the size of a Pringles can)

Your amps power consumption is not uniform. Each time your amp punches the bass, it draws extra power. If that power isn't available, it starves and shuts down (if only for a second) then restarts.

The higher the gain, especially using a low pass filter, the more power needed for each thump. Thats why when you turn the bass down, you can get higher volume from the rest of the system.

How a capacitor can help (simply put):
In this application, the capacitor acts like an auxiliary battery, smoothing out power fluxuations. The capacitor builds up its charge literally between bass hits when power demand is low. Then releases it's charge when the demand is high. Think of it as an on-demand power boost.

Hope this helped

Mike