Washer stopped working all together

If your smelling electrical burn.. It's most likely to be the motor is bad.. Or just stuck, new washers made today are DC motors and contain a circuit board in the motor.. And are not serviceable.. Just replace them..

Sound like something else isn't turning because it's jammed
the the motor is trying to turn.
May also be the starting capacitor.

if the water fills up and starts have a burning smell, to me it sounds like the agitator motor is bad. Which would be the next part in the washing sequence.
That's the best I can make of the description

Appliance repair person would be who to call

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_54ae41aaaffbab00

hello you need to change drum rollers but if u remarked water dawn the washer and burn smell it could be the motor OR THE BELT because when the drum stop turning or turn slowly the motor turn fast on the belt when spin time it make this smell .

It is very likely that the motor has burned out. What happens is that the water solenoid allows water to fill to a certain point where a fill sensor stops it. The program then moves on to activate the motor which will agitate the wash. So when power is supplied to the motor, it tries to start, overheats because of a break down of insulation in the windings, and you smell burning. Replace the motor.

sounds like your belt is slipping and burning inspect that for wear. or you may have a pully prob

you probably closed the lid to hard and broke the switch that tells the machine that it is closed. So the machine thinks the lid is open and for saftey reasons will not operate. I had the same problem. You can buy a new switch for about $10 or you can simply cuts the wires for the switch and wire them together. If you do this be warned that the machine will never know if the lid is open or closed. The machine will assume that the lid is always closed. But it will work also.

THE SMELL IS THE BELT BURNING,YOU CAN REMOVE THE FRONT PANEL TO CHECK THE WATER PUMP,CLUTCH,BELT, AND TRANS,SOMETIMES THE BELT WEARS AND JUST STARTS SLIPPING.,LET MW KNOW-MIKE

You can test the washer with the case removed by by-passing the lid switch. You will need to jumper the two BLACK wires at the lid switch connector (where it connects to the timer).

With the case removed, and the washer UNPLUGGED. Locate the lid switch connector and jumper the two BLACK wires. Plug washer back in and carefully turn the timer on to start. You will be able to visibly inspect the washer while it is running. The Drive Motor should not start running until the washer fills completely. Set the washer on the lowest water setting to reduce fill time. Usually electrical smells are attributed to the Drive Motor and/or Start Capacitor. Make sure the connectors are all on properly and not loose. Loose or corroded connections can cause arcing and/or burning. Inspect all the wiring for any signs of chaffing or burning. Use caution not to touch any of the electrical connections while the washer is running or energized. Running the washer with the case removed is primarily for giving you a visual for any obvious signs of problems. Any wire and connector checks should be done with power removed. I hope this information helps you. Please post back if you require further assistance.