OB60SL9DEX1 IS THE RIGHT MODEL NUMBER. As well as leaving the shop in demo mode (we got for $100 off because it was on display), they put the wrong model number on the invoice. Contacted the support lines who dont know how to turn demo mode off. Seems a tech has to attend site. 8-(
Sorry Ed Leibrick...
I attempted to find your SPECIFICS in your
OWNERS MANUAL... Sadly (no joy)...!!
Very limited RESULTS here in the (USA)
San Francisco Bay area on your model.
Strongly suggest you try CUSTOMER
support... @
UK Tele hours
NZ 0800 372 273 toll-free, 24/7
AU 1300 650 590 toll-free, 24/7
GB 0845 066 2200 toll-free, 24/7
IE 1800 625 174 toll-free, 24/7
www.fisherpaykel.com CAUTION:
Typically "turning OFF "demo" mode is merely pushing the correct
combinations of controls... (my opinion).
HOWEVER...
many FEATURES are undocumented and you can have
a PROFOUND impact on the NORMAL function of your appliance.
Do NOT play with it... USE your CUSTOMER SUPPORT...!
Testimonial: "Thankyou - it seems a tech has to visit to turn demo mode off. Says the helpdesk. If it is a combination of buttons, I will not be impressed."
Sorry - I read the model off the invoice, which was wrong. OB60SL9DEX1 is the right model number.
BUMMER... (& quite incredible)
The local consumer contact (I won't):
https://www.consumer.org.nz/products/bui...
Love manuals though I may... This OB60 still resolves to NZ... Where we evidently do NOT favor such sharing of (trivial) information...
Some retail sales CLOWN invoked the "DEMO" mode.
Perhaps going to store (talk by hand)?
Yeah - visited the store. Seems the Fisher Paykel representative did the removal from display at store, so the sales people dont know how to change from demo mode. Every thing works but the oven doesnt get any hotter than warm. Have to wait until tomorrow (Monday) for store to contact rep. Thanks for trying though. Ed.
Lookie here "spares" (still no joy)
https://producthelp.fisherpaykel.com/au/...
Do let me know if you remain "not impressed".
Clock board (item 8) shows 640402-PC-AB4 on this drawing but part lists is 550602...
Interesting (outsourced brains perhaps?)
but I still would NOT dig into a "new unit"..
Use this opportunity: RETURN IT.
I would (however) try to hunt these part numbers on eBay (I attempted from here... and while I found TONs of FISHER & PAYKEL PC BOARDS for sale YOUR number never showed).
IN MY OPINION... a heavy aftermarket business
in parts indicated REALLY SHABBY (deliberate)
quality ((cost reduced)) decisions have been made at the CORPORATE level.
BAD omens for Fisher & Paykel...
I have always had good thoughts about
Urk. Sorry I didnt think before testimonial and didnt realise it was for you, not the question. Is there a way to change testimonial?
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SOURCE: Demo Mode on Fisher PC-9326
On the front of the set, on the bottom left-hand corner, you will find a set of buttons. Press and hold down the LEVEL > button that points right for about 10-15 seconds. Doing this should get it out of Demo mode.
By the way, do you know how to unblock a blocked channel on this same model?
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel electric oven doesn't heat in Bake mode
Electric Oven: Repairs and Maintenance Electricranges and ovens are generally easy to repair, because there's not muchto go wrong and there's not much you can do. Most repairs are actuallyreplacements, a matter of unplugging the old part and plugging in thenew. Most of the malfunctions that affect electric ranges involvefaulty heating elements.
Caution: Beforedoing any work on an electric range or oven, make sure it's unplugged,or turn off the power to the unit by removing one or more fuses ortripping one or more breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel. If the range is fused at a separate panel, this panelmay be located adjacent to the main panel or in a basement, crawlspace, or other location. If there is a grounding wire to the range,disconnect it. Make sure the power to the unit is off.
Servicing Fuses
Ifthe range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit mayhave its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usuallylocated under the cooktop of the range. In some units, lift the top ofthe range to gain access to the fuse assembly; or lift the elements,remove the drip pans, and look on the sides of the cabinets. Inside theoven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly.
Ifthe unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such asthe oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and aself-cleaning feature may be separately fused.
If thesecomponents or features fail to work, don't overlook the possibilitythat the fuses have blown. To replace a blown fuse, unscrew the oldfuse and install a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Ifthe unit has circuit breakers, push the breaker or reset button, whichis usually located on the control panel.
Replacing Range Heating Elements
Whena range heating element burns out, it's easy to replace. But before youdisassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure therange is receiving power. Here's what you can do:
Step 1:Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blownfuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel.
Step 2:Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken,restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.
Step 3:When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heatingelement is connected to a terminal block in the side of the elementwell. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove themetal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by tworetaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove ascrew-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove apush-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove a range heating element, remove the screws holding the terminal
wires, or pull the element straight out of its connection.Step 4:Test the element with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1scale. Disconnect one of the electrical leads to the element and clipone probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isfunctioning properly, the meter will read between 40 and 125 ohms; ifthe meter reads extremely high, the element is faulty and should bereplaced.
To test a range element without using a VOM, remove aworking element from its terminal block and connect it to themalfunctioning element terminal. Don't let the test element overlap theedges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if itdoesn't fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the workingelement heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. Ifthe working element doesn't heat, the terminal block wiring or theswitch that controls the element may be faulty. Call a professionalservice person.
Step 5:Replace a burned-out range element with a new one made specifically forthe range. Take the old element to the appliance-parts store; ifpossible, take the make and model information, too. This data willprobably be on a metal tag attached to the back service panel of therange. To install the new element, connect it the same way the old onewas connected.
Replacing Oven and Broiler Heating Elements
Electric oven and broiler elements are often even easier to test and replace than range elements. Here's how:
Step 1:If the oven element doesn't work, first check to see if the range isreceiving power. Don't overlook the fusing system inside the range.
Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.
Step 3: If the element still doesn't heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.
Step 4:Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power.Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, andremove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. Theelement is usually held in these brackets by screws.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove an oven or broiler heating element, remove the screws or pull
the plugs that connect it. Remove a retaining shield and lift out the element.
Step 5:Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isin working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meterreads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should bereplaced. If the element tests all right but doesn't work, the problemmay be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight atthe element connections.
Oven and broiler elements cannot betested without a VOM. If you don't have a VOM, take the element to aprofessional service person for testing. The problem is usually amalfunctioning element; however, you aren't risking much by replacingthe element without a professional test.
Step 6:Take the burned out element with you to the appliance-parts store tomake sure you get the right replacement part; if possible, take themake and model information, too.
To install the new element,place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same waythe old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place.Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven(including its door gasket, oven controls, and timer) are virtually thesame as the components used on gas ranges.
Most problems withgas and electric ovens or ranges are easier to fix than you think. Thekey is knowing how the various parts work and when to replace them.
Have a look at these websites to find parts and details :
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/appliance_range_oven.aspx
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/dataselect.html
SOURCE: F1 Error on Fisher & Paykel Nautilus
It leaked before leading to this.
1- Unplug the power.
2- Dry out the leak.
3- Before taking off the lid seal, check if Lid actuator working by going to diagnostic mode. 4- Select LD.
5-Pull the drawer half way out so you can see the lid going down or not when you turn on by pressing lock button.
6- Press the lock button again to release the Lid.
7- Most the time it is a Lid actuator problem and your seal look good, then you replace the Lid actuator only.
8- If it is a problem with the Lid actuator and your seal look bad then replace all .
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel Dryer model ED56 constant beep
Diagnostic Mode
Entering the Diagnostic Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
button.
The dryer is now in level 0 of the diagnostic mode. After initial entry into the
diagnostic mode, the Start/Pause button operates the dryer as normal. Press
the Auto Dry up or down buttons to scroll through the fault levels.
There are several levels of diagnostics, most of which are used in
development and production. These levels may bring on various LEDs, but
the level of use for the service technician is that of the last fault.
Last Fault
To enter the last fault diagnostics, enter the diagnostic mode as described
above, then press the Auto Dry up button three times. The last fault will be
displayed on the drying progress LEDs.
The manual is here
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: How do I engage diagnostic mode?
The tech sheet inside the control panel explains how to do this but I will include an abreviated procedure here.
To enter Diagnostic Mode:
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