I have this same problem. It stalls at the same spot every time around. I cannot see a way to open the hub to see what is wrong.I have this same problem. It stalls at the same spot every time around. I cannot see a way to open the hub to see what is wrong.
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Sensor in the wheel hub measure how many revolution per minute and that is compared to the other wheels. Then a complex algorithm determines based on the wheel sensor as well as whether the brake pedal is depressed and other sensor input if there is any need for the abs system to modulate the brake for a specific wheel to eliminate wheel slippage or spin.
The good news is that it isn't compression or spark and the engine can run.
Borrow scanner and read OBD data. It may provide you the answer.without having to diagnose.
The first check is to see if the fuel pump is running?
You can usually hear it for 1 to 2 seconds when you first turn the key to the run position. It will have a little whine sound. No pump running on fuel pressure no start! You may need to have one person turn the key and the other(the one with the best hearing) lay near the drivers side rear wheel and listen.
The next check is to listen for the click of the fuel injectors.
Get the guy again with the best hearing and with the hood open take a rod between the top of a fuel injector and your ear and listen as the engine cranks. they will click once every other revolution. About once per second. No click no fuel no start.
Pump whine OK, injector click OK, need to check fuel pressure!!
Need to have a fuel pressure gauge connected to fuel rail and observe pressure. If the pressure regulator is bad or if the fuel filter is plugged or ice in fuel line or what ever no fuel pressure , yea no fuel no start.
Open the gearbox up and look inside, the damage will be obvious once you clean the grease away. You aren't going to fix it from the outside so opening it is going to be part of the solution.
There are brakes shoes inside your rotor , they are for the emergency brake, lightly apply the e brake see if it changes the noise it may go away after you take. It off, rust builds up in ther
Motor operating mouth assembly is bad. The process to remove it is tedious and the motor is specific to the design. This was a common problem with all of the motors in this series. Especially the one operating the mouth. The input pulsing necessary for the mouth to move, was to abusive to the motor, and subsequently shortened its life.
Disassembly and inspection is the only way to verify what it is. It sounds like you are correct. I have bought parts very reasonably on line and repaired our K/A mixer. The better sites ( I think I used appliancerepair.com) have exploded diagrams. If you are tearing into yours, these are invaluable, and when you get to the broken part, you'll have a name for it.
You either have a bad bearing in one of your wheels or in your bottom bracket ( where the crank is connected ) It could also be a pit in the bottom bracket where the bearings ride. If this thump occurs about the same spot on your cranking revolutions I would say it is a pit in that bottom bracket. If it were the bearings themselves that were worn the thump would be more random. The first thing to do would be to remove the chain from the crank. Then crank the pedals using your hands and see if you can feel that thump or vibration with your hands. If you feel it there then replace the bottom bracket or get new bearings. If this does not solve your problem then check the wheel bearings. Just take the wheels off and spin them while holding onto the hubs with your hands. If the wheel bearings are bad you should feel a roughness or vibration while spinning them. Since you described this as a thump I would say problem is not your wheels. They would make more of a clicking sound. Good Luck
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