What can stop my cooker from working,

I am not familiar with your model of cooker but I assume it is a gas cooker.

Gas cookers have safety devices in the oven and grill the hob rings do not need. I speculate even the domestic oven hasn't escaped the interference from the electronics industry and I expect the aforementioned safety devices depend on (low voltage) electronics and electronics depend on electricity - that the lights aren't working would suggest there is no (low voltage) electricity.

Even in the case of an electric oven the thermostat could be electronic and need (low voltage) electricity to work.

I suspect the internal power supply has failed.

Sounds to me like the gas is shut off. Check the valves.

Hi, Have you altered the time clock on the cooker? It is possible that the clock/timer is set for 'Auto'

The clue will be when the rcd trips out. If everything is switched off on the cooker with the exception of the clock when you power it up and then it trips out, it could be in the wiring to the oven from the control switch and or the wiring in the oven. The only way you are going to find this is to take the oven out of the housing and test the wiring, isolating components until you find the problem.

you need to check the pipe that take gas in to rings , and check the adjuster button .... where you live may be i can help you

if nothing on it works there is a possibilty the control borad went out if it has a control borad if it is new the warranty should cover it

it sounds like the control borad is out and needs to be replaced thats if the oven is switch is on that borad it can be expensive to replace it just depends on how old it is

I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN ! But i have had the same problem of the oven and the back right ring not working and have found the cause of this. For some reason there is a thermal fuse running inline on a live wire inside the cooker if you feel competent yourself in replacing this fuse you will save a good deal of money on call out fees, here is how to do it. SAFETY is the crucial, First of all isolate the power source to the cooker, pull out cooker so you can get access to the back of the cooker, remove the 9 screws ( i think there is 9) to remove the back plate from the cooker, this is quite heavy because there is a small block of concrete fastened to the bottom left hand side of the back plate, looking at the inside of the cooker on the right hand side you will see a white wire which has been secured via a small screwed clip, this wire has a transparent sleeve covering the thermal fuse, remove the sleeve by sliding it up or down the wire, check the fuse by with a meter just to be sure, if it is blown cut the fuse out. replace fuse the same way it was fitted. replace the sleeve and fit the back on the cooker SAFETY FIRST switch on power and try oven and back ring, mine works fine. like i said at the start i am not an electrician, but i can not understand why there is a thermal fuse running inline to the oven which is linked the back right hob. all the best folks Hobbo from Chess.

Hi all...

Yep got the main oven gone......
Lucky iam good with electrics, got my brother in law to double check Qualified Elctrician it turns out that its the Thermal Fuse that has gone have ordered a new one at the cost of £8.......
This range is made by Beco thats why its hard to find info on the cooker.. The grill/fan oven has thermal fuse as well.....
Hope this helps MVE