Maytag Neptune MDG6700A Gas Dryer Logo
A
Anonymous Posted on Aug 17, 2014

Error codes 3 and 10

Dryer stars up fine, runs heating for 2 min. - flame goes off digital time display goes to 1 (Cool down mode). High temp thermostat OK,gas coils OK. What is a door circuit failure (error code 3), and sensor bar (No wet cloths - error code 10)?

1 Answer

George Nava

Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Cheetah:

An expert who has answered 20 or more questions within one hour.

Hot-Shot:

An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert 120 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2014
George Nava
Expert
Level 2:

An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

MVP:

An expert that got 5 achievements.

Cheetah:

An expert who has answered 20 or more questions within one hour.

Hot-Shot:

An expert who has answered 20 questions.

Joined: Mar 21, 2009
Answers
120
Questions
0
Helped
15517
Points
133

Need to test with multimeter, door code error could be a faulty door switch which would hinder machine from operating. I suggest checking the glo bar and ceramic igniter for the going off problem, in electric dryers maybe in gas as well bad motor windings can cause it to go off and on?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 101 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 22, 2009

SOURCE: Maytag Atlantis MDE6200AYW will run, but no heat

Check to make sure that you have the proper voltage running to the dryer first. Next you may have a problem with your heating element or with your thermal fuse. Get your dryer opened up so you can see your heating element. Run the dryer and if you see the heating element come on and then turn right back off again then you have a bad thermal fuse. If it doesn't come on at all though then the heating element is bad. Both parts can be picked up at your local appliance repair shop. Just make sure to unplug the dryer before replacing the part. If you have any other questions let me know and let me know if this was helpful for you. Good luck.

Ad

Anonymous

  • 8619 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2009

SOURCE: Dryer will run in cool down mode,but not in any other.

Hi!

Please check the following---

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

3cd2377.jpg
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Please accept this solution and ask for any clarification.

Thanks
Rylee

Anonymous

  • 108 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 26, 2009

SOURCE: I have a Neptune Gas Dryer MDG300AW and the flame goes out.

Well, first of all, the flame is not supposed to be continuous... it cycles on and off during the dry cycle because it staying on would incinerate your clothing. However, there are magnetic coils that do often go bad and cause the valve to stop opening after the beginning of the cycle... so you get a flame in the beginning, but if you were to sit there for 5 minutes with the dryer running, you would find that the flame stopped lighting completely.

They are pretty easy to replace... you will have to unscrew the little plastic pieces from the inside edge of the door, and unscrew the hinges and remove the door, then pull the front panel off (pull at the top).

Of course... UNPLUG before opening any appliance.

here's a picture of what you are looking for... they are completely outside the gas line, so changing them is very simple and doesn't require any handling of the gas. they are held on with a small metal plate.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500-%3d%3dd563888i3479&PartID=3479

garyrose69

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2009

SOURCE: Maytag Performa PYE2200AYW Dryer Heats intermittently

i had the same problem with my dryer and i installed the wrong thermal fuse for gas dryer which calls for a pink thermal fuse in which i installed and it works fine also check the lint in the front of your dryer. also my dryer which is the same make as yours seems will run on the fluff cycle until i replaced the right thermal fuse. my dryer run exceptionally hot and eventally shut down and it only run on the fluff cycle for any length of time.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 09, 2010

SOURCE: Maytag MDE7400AYW taking 2 or 3 cycles to dry

removing the top

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Gas dryer works fine for 5 min., then flame goes out, display time goes to 1 min. (cool down mode). I've tested high limit thermostat. It is OK. I put on new gas coils. Error codes 3 and 10 appear on

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
Aug 17, 2014 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

I have 2 zones, both of which are programmed. The display for zone 2 works fine. When I am looking at zone 1, the desired heating and cooling temps display as -- with no temps there. The system is set on...

Are these reading temps at 2 separate tstats or are you using temp sensors that send the temp back to the stat. It sounds like the sensor is not communicating with the stat.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

0helpful
1answer

I have recently installed 1Te Voltas 2 star A.C. I need clarification on the following 1) In cool mode, what is system of auto cut. Suppose I put on remove temp 27deg C. Temp of the room goes up to 26 deg...

Dear Mahesh

In Cool Mode

Temp Diff - + - 1 deg C in Room Temp & Set Temp

This is auto cut

In Dry Mode

Comp Runs for 10 mins then get off for 5 mins then again get on for 10 mins this cycle continuues.
0helpful
1answer

E68 error code

This E68 is a stuck keypad.


The error E68 means the CCU has sensed a stuck button on the console. MANY times this is a false error and means that either the CCU or interface must be replaced, but SOMETIMES, there really is a stuck button. Try to run a diagnostic using the instructions I have provided below, let me know if you need any help with it.
1. Press and hold Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. The buzzer will sound
1 time and " res" will be shown briefly in the display.
2. Immediately after, rotate cycle selector knob 5 turns counter-clockwise to the second position from the bottom.
Press and hold the Options and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The control will enter test mode,
the buzzer will sound 3 times and all LED's will rapidly flash.
After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests:
Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:
0 turns: All LED's will flash.
1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. "H" and the control thermistor reading will toggle
back and forth in the display.
2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and "AF" (Air Fluff) is displayed.
3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LED's are lit and numbers appear in the
display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing
a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers decrease. In controls that
do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening the door (press in on door switch
plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the Damp LED
come on.
4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off.
Key test:
a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LED's should light.
b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LED's should light.
c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LED's should light.
d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.
5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.
7-11 turns: All LED's will flash
To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power
from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation.
If you cant even enter this mode at all, your interface will have to be replaced. There is no way to determine whether its the interface OR CCU, but in my experience, it's usually the interface that ends up needing replacement. Here is a link to the interface board.
0helpful
1answer

My dryer only has heat for 2 min after it starts then the flame goes off

Hello
Does the problem happen in timed drying as well as automatic drying?If it happens in all modes I would suspect a high limit thermostat is tripping. Especially if it starts back up after cooling down.
Check for clogged or obstructed vent hose .Make sure your getting good air flow from blower to the outside.If you have flexible hose make sure there is no water collected in it.Make sure lint screen is clean.It may be time to take off back panel and check for massive dust deposits.If ok ,then with the back is off you can put a volt meter on timer side of thermostat or stats and turn on dryer . When flame cuts out at 2 minutes ,see what volt meter says .If voltage good there then the problem is high limit thermostat or bad igniter or bad gas valve.If no voltage then then the problem is with moisture sensor.

Beware of HIGH VOLTAGE

Hpoe this helps
0helpful
1answer

I have a Kenmore Dryer Mod#110 62722101. It will run about 10 minutes and shut off, after a cool down period it will restart but only run about 10 mins. Heats, fine, tumbles fine. A few days before this...

If it runs after a cool down period, then the high temperature limit is part of the cause. What is causing the high temperature limit to overheat is next.
Strong stream of air should be felt coming out the exhaust, make sure this exhaust air works or the burner part will overheat and cut out the flame/burner on hight temp safety.
With good exhaust air varified, the drying air operating temperature sensor needs to be checked, this cuts power to the burner. The sensor must open electricaly when satisified on temperature and should be properly mounted for proper sensing of temperature.
Bottom line: Check the hot air and its control
Jun 04, 2017 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Hi have problem with canadian spa (balboa mrspa1) control panel digital reading when turned on goes to OH,circulation pump will not run

OHS, OH, or SPA TEMP LMT Message There is an "Over Heated Spa" (OHS or OH) Water Condition.

One of the Water Temp Sensors has detected 110°F (43.3°C) Incoming Water Temp and Spa Functions are Disabled. System will Auto Reset when Water Temp is below 108°F (42.2°C). Check for Extended Pump Operation or High Ambient Temp, or contact your Dealer or Service Organization.

Spa Water Cool Down
• In order for the Spa Water Overheat Error Message to Automatically Reset and Clear, the Spa Water Must Cool to below 108°F (42.2°C).
• Check the Topside Panel Display to see if the "OHS", "OH", or "SPA TEMP LMT" Spa Water Overheat Error Message has Cleared. If the Error Message has Not Cleared, the Spa Water is still too Hot to Continue Testing.
• Either Wait for the Spa Water to Cool Below 108°F (42.2°C), or Exit Now and Retest at a Later time.

You can find answers to COMMON SPA MESSAGES at the following website:

COMMON SPA PANEL MESSAGES



Hope this helps.

0helpful
1answer

THERE ARE 6 BUTTONS ON THE TOP PANEL ... TWO R USED FOR UP AND DOWN OF TEMP . REST I DONT KNOW. SO NOW THE HEATER RUNS FOR 2 TO 3 MINS AND THEN FAN GETS OFF DISPLAYING FIGURE OF 11 ON DISPLAY.

Power or on/off button to control power.

Now symbols:
1. fan leaves - Fan only
2. Rain drop- Dry mode
3. Snow flake-Cool mode
4. Sun- Heat
5. A or AU- Auto mode.
11 Error code means communication wiring is incorrect. check and rectify in your thermostat.
Thanks.
1helpful
1answer

Dryer flame starts for a few min then goes out

When it goes off will it restart immediately or do you need to allow some cool down time?

If cool down time is needed it's likely the coil kit which is part number 279834 for your model.

Other possibilities are air flow too slow causing a "lazy" flame which shuts off due to hitting safety thermostat sitting on top of the flame tunnel.
Aug 23, 2009 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Gas dryer heats up, then cools down for the rest of the cycle. The air is blowing but it is cool air.

You may have a safety thermostat causing it to trip out will defeat the signal for your heat setting. You have 2 thermostats 1 for safety 1 for operating. The operating thermostat is most likely not shutting off the burner when the temp is correct or it is working but not resetting its self. (I would recommend replacing both of these thermostats because you could have a like problem on the safety thermostat which would indicate a week setting and if it fails it could over heat all though they are made to fail open everything is man made in this appliance).

you can Check the thermostat(S) by placing a volt meter on the terminals with the dryer running. You should have no voltage across it until the flame goes out. If the flame does not come back on replace this thermostat.
Not finding what you are looking for?

189 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Maytag Dryers Experts

Mike Cairns
Mike Cairns

Level 3 Expert

3054 Answers

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

19187 Answers

Are you a Maytag Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...