How so you change or check the fuse?

What kind of mixer are you working with?/

The first time is a little difficult; but it get's easier every time. I found after mine blew its first fuse, it blew more and more often; then almost any time it got jammed; while sewing real heavy material; and when I tried to sew real fast. So might as well buy several fuses when you go to buy one. I had a hard time finding a fuse locally, until I just happened to call Radio Shack and they had them. There are usually 2 fuses, so check to see which one is blown and take it with you. Make sure you buy fuse that does not blow as easily -- think they called it a slow blowing fuse. Radio Shack helped me to buy the right one. I purchased a higher rating the last time and it seemed to do better -- but I could not find where this was recommended and I am no expert on fuses, so let Radio Shack advise you. Just do not buy a lower rated fuse.

Make sure you note where each screw goes back at, I didn't and had some screws left over the first time I finished. Take masking tape and write on it where the screw goes, then use that piece of tape to stick the screw to a piece of paper or aluminum foil. Trust me, it will help. Now how to to do this:

I didn't remove the top cover, I just loosened the screws enough to get the side panel off. I don't recommend taking the top off all the way, because my dimmer knob came lose when I took it all the way off. If you want to take the top off you can by removing the 2 large screws, plus the small one under the handle.

Remove the small screw on the bottom that screws into the right side. Remove the right cover, where the power plug is.

Lay the machine on its back and remove the screws on the bottom. Make sure when you take these screws out you do not move the embroidery arm; or you will have to adjust the feed dogs before it fits back together.

CAREFULLY move the bottom cover out of the way.

Inside the body of the machine you will see a black box held in place by three screws. Remove the screws and, as you slowly pull the box out. One of the wires on mine was not removable. One wire was real short and it was tricky to make sure I had it plugged back in when I put it back together. MAKE NOTE OF WHICH WIRES PLUG IN WHERE.

On the other side of the box, remove the two screws that hold the cover on.Inside, remove the two screws that hold the board. Be careful not to touch anything on the board

Looking into the machine from the right side (where the plug is) you will see two fuses. One will be blown. I used some real long needle nose pliers to take them out. Use the tweezers to replace with the new fuse and reassemble. Make sure it touches the metal on both sides or it will not work.

When refitting the base unit, make sure the feed dogs are in the right position -- this is what I was referring to when I said embroidery arm.

I didn't replace all my screws in the bottom until I made sure it worked. If it doesn't check the short wire where you took the box out; and check to make sure the fuses are in the slot correctly (these are some errors I made the first time.)

**ALSO DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOUR SCREWS. I did and mine got stripped out.

The local sewing shop wanted $120 to replace the fuse; which is about all you can get for the sewing machine if you try to sell it. I am a retired single 62 year old lady so if I can figure it out so can you. It took me almost an hour the first time, but now I can do it in 15 minutes. I still have my machine, but purchased a newer model and only use this one for straight easy sewing.

Good luck and let me know if you need any more help.

check the keyboard

1. Remove the rubber hood gasket at the base of the windshield along the car-right side by pulling up on it
2. Pull up and remove the triangular plastic shield in the car-right rear corner of the engine compartment
3. Remove the rear bolt on the large diagonal bar holding the fuse box
4. remove the two front bolts on that diagonal bar, and the other nearby car-right bolt holding the front of the plastic shield to the front rail
5. Pull up and right on the large bar and fuse box to position it out of the way to expose the battery
6. remove the bolt and spacer at the rear lower base of the battery
7. first remove the negative battery cable (8mm), then the positive cable
8. pull the battery out
9. swap the thermal cover onto the new battery, remove protective terminal caps (if there), and reverse the procedure to reinstall the new battery. Always install the positive cable before the negative to avoid welding your wrench to the car.

There should be two more screws inside the car behind the carpet lining

You'll need a #2 screwdriver, 12mm socket wrench, and a knee pad. I got bad knee's LOL
Start by removing the plastic kick panel under the glove box by just pulling down, the out.,then the panel to the left be removing a retainer clip.

You may Take out the glove box by uncliping the dash strip and unscrewing the 2 screws obviously holding it in. The rest is tension clips, so just pull on the glove box and it slides right out. You'll have to pause and unscrew the light at the top. This will let you see A WHOLE LOT BETTER. and also give you more room with the screw driver later. 

Next, Undo the wire harnesses that are attached to the white junction box. You must swing back the black levers on each of them for them to come loose. After that you must twist the white clips to swing down the junction box and remove more harnesses from the top.

Now wiggle out the junction box as it shouldn't have anything else attached to it. Then un bold the 12mm nuts(2) that hold the bracket on that the junction box was being held by. And swing it a little to the right to clear room.

Unclip the grey wire on the left, and unscrew the 4 screws closing the air filter area. And swing it out of the way. I reccomend you get a vaccum and clear out any dust and debris that might be stuck in the hole.

Now slide in the first piece of the filter to the left hand part of the hole vertically, and then slide it up. Hold it there as you wedge the second piece in the same spot underneath the first. They include a piece of paper with a great diagram of which piece goes on top, after it's settles in correctly, place the cover back on , re-screw all 4 screws and remember to reconnect the grey wire.
Now remount the bracket that holds the junction box. Reconnect the wire harnesses that go into the top of the junction box close the junction box and reconnect the Bottom wire harnesses.
Make sure you push hard on these two harness' black levers... They feel tight at first, but they'll throw a Check engine light, so make sure they're extra extra tight!!!

Put the Plastic kick panel and side panel back on, If you took out the glovebox, make sure there are no wires in the way and slide it back in. Remember to reconnect the light at the top. Also, hit the glovebox a few times to make sure the retention clips lock in plase. Also use your fingers on the weather stripping to make it seal a little better. Screw it back in, and replace the dash strip.

Now, Sit in the drivers seat, Turn on the AC and enjoy the clean fresh air!!

Good luck and hope this helps. 
If your Check engine light comes on, go check your wire harnesses and tighten them up. To reset the light after you fix them you have to turn the car on and off 2 or 3 times.

Open the front and right covers and remove the toner bottle holder unit.
Pull out the Photoconductor unit(PCU) with your thumb pressing on the latch on the left side of the PCU.
Separate the top part from(drum) the bottom part(developer unit), by removing the front piece 1 screw and rear piece 2 screws and 1 coupling(pull out).
Now remove 1 front screw, 2 rear screws and other 2 top rear screws to separate the top and bottom parts of the dev. unit.
Then place your finger under the front-side and rear-side flaps and push out so that the flaps pops off the peg.
Set the coupling removed, back to the shaft and turn the coupling to remove the developer from the roller.
Turn upside down the lower part of the dev. unit to remove all the developer by turning its gears.
Load new developer evenly in the openings of the lower dev. unit and pay attention not to spill developer on the gears.
Reassemble the whole PCU properly.
Reinstall back the PCU and toner unit and close the front and right covers.
Switch on the machine, enter SP mode- Clear key, 107, hold and press Stop key.
Enter SP 2-214 and execute to reinitialize the TD sensor.
Switch off and on the machine.

Good luck and please rate me, thanks.

You have to take the top piece on the left side off w/4 screws. Then there are 2 things that is holding the DM unit in place on the top of it and bottom of it. Take the top one off. This will allow you to remove the DM box. Use like a tackle box or something to hold it up while repairing it. There are some screws that hold the main board in place in the front of it those will need to be removed to allow you to move it out a little.

The film (plastic) film is probably torn from a piece of paper that got jammed between the upper and lower section causing an overtemp lockout condition.
1. Remove left paper door.
2. Remove conector rear plastic(black) and fuser shields(2) screws holding fuser cover shield and unplug (3)connectors,2on the rear and a small one on the front lower right of fuser unit
3. Remove (2) assemlbly mounting screws one at rear and one
on the front sides.
4. remove unit and purchase new complete unit from cannon
5.Installed new fuser by reversing above steps.

you can go to www.compassmicro.com to check if theres an available blueprint of the printer