I have a new hose for my Grohe Euro Plus to replace a leaking old one. I have disconnected it from the water supply but now the ends of the the old hose will not fit through part connected to the sink (don't know the name). The ends are both too big. Do I have to take that faucet part off the sink? There is a plastic tube that the hose has to fit through and their isn't room. I don't know how to take the faucet off the sink.

See if these videos help?

https://www.google.com/search?q=replace+the+braided+hose+on+my+Grohe+pull+down+tap

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Grohe Flush Valve Replacement

if you cannot find hose replacement from manufacturer/brand then just use standard braid and use reducer. it should be available at any hardware store and plumbing supplies, i would check first on e-bay, just in search put "1/4 3/8 braided", these braided connectors are usually used for hot water connection.

please write if it was helpful, rating will be nice too... ;-)

Yes,it sounds like you have to replace the hose.Follow the braided hose under your sink until you come across a yellow and black fitting . it is comparable to an air hose fitting quick disconnection. once that is pulled from the sink port,unscrew the spray head and pull the ose through the faucet body from above the sink

1. If by replacing the flexible hose you mean the hose for the pull-out portion - you have more than likely kinked or bent the supply line to the hot (left) side of the faucet.
a) If this supply is braided, then simply shutting of the water supply, removing the braided line and either replacing or attempting to straighten it out will be your best bet.
b) If the supply is copper, you will have to cut the line cleanly and carefully. you will then most likely need a 1/4" or 3/8" compression/quickconnect BY 1/2" IP fitting to complete your repair.
2. Other possibilities include:
a) Failure inside the faucet body which will most likely be warrantied by Grohe if you push them hard enough.
b) A problem at your hot water tank, most likely the outlet side and *perhaps* you hadn't noticed the problem elsewhere.
c) The hot valve failing to reopen fully despite all appearances; applies if you turned off the water under the sink for your repair.

With my past experiance with any Grohe product,you will experiance a problem.I have been doing plumbing service work for 20 yrs. and every time I encounter this product,there is always a major problem.I don't know what the big deal is about this product,it cost too much and parts are hard to come by,you must order most of the time.then wait 3 to 4 weeks.hope it's the right part!

I hope this helps.
Step11Turn off the water supply. You'll find a shut-off valve under your kitchen sink. Once the water is turned off, open up the kitchen faucets to allow the water remaining in the pipes to drain way. Step2Catch the drips by placing a bucket under the hot water supply line, located on the left side of your sink. Even a minimum of water can cause a mess and be potentially damaging. Step3Use a wrench to remove the compression nut that secures the hot water supply line. Let the disconnected section fall into the bucket. Use the wrench to loosen and remove the nut at the other end of the line and remove it as well. Step4Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the cold water supply line. Step5Replace the cold water supply line. Hand-tighten the nuts on both ends, then use the wrench to tighten the nuts completely. Repeat the process with the hot water supply line. Step6Turn on the water supply and test for leaks

Replace water pump. Common problem. Unscrew the control panel ,two screws on each end. Flip control panel over and unsnap gold brackets from base to the back. Lift up housing and disconnect lid switch, remove housing. The water pump is in the front lower that has two hoses , disconnect hoses and unsnap pump. My sister fixed hers in about 25 minutes.

1. Measure the hose while it is still attached
2. Go to an Auto parts store and buy that length plus a few inches. Tell them you need HEATER HOSE
3. Unless you are in a warm climate RIGHT NOW, buy some coolant.
4. Purchase the band clamps for it or the same type that are on it.
5. Disconnect the water pump end of the hose and quickly replace it with the new one. HOLD that disconnected end UP.
6. Slide the new clamp over the non-connected end of the new hose down to the water pump.
7. Tighten that end.
8. Remove the opposite end of the OLD hose from the heater core.
9. Slide the other clamp on the new hose then connect to the heater core.
10. Tighten that end. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE HEATER CORE END!!!!! You will crush that tube!!!!
11. Check the radiator fuild level.
12. Refill as required.

Hello, Many shower heads have similar problems. (Very frustrating as you now know) The problem is the threads at the end of the (cheap plastic) shower neck are not flat. They are tapered (has an edge) - so it does not seat flush with the base of the shower head. Actually cuts around the rubber washer causing a leak.

What to do about it?

File the end of the neck some to create a flat surface. However, go slow. Be sure you can still screw on the shower head. Add a flat rubber washer in the shower head and plumbers tape on neck threads too.

Or Purchase a new shower neck that has a better design. The neck should unscrew from the front. Check and make sure you have an access behind the shower just in case you need to access the plumbing.

I replace the shower neck myself if there is an access.

Rob