Keeps blowing the fuse.

well if the unit has never been taken apart and cleaned well inside, and it's five years in service , Id say thats your problem, anything thats got room air blowing thru it for five years ,It's gonna need to be tottaly cleaned in all areas

any appliance thats blowing fuses is dangerous and should not be used in te home , hey if it more than three years old a new one will save you money in lower electric , before you pitch the old one ck with your power company sometimes they offer rebates for appliance upgrades !!!! and they require the old one for those to occur

Blocked/poor airflow are the most likely culprit. Make sure the filter and evaporator are clean. If the evaporator is caked with dirt you can try carefully cleaning it with a wet rag and a shopvac. If they are both clean check to make sure the fan is blowing air across the coils. Final diagnosis would be a refrigeration issue.

Your compressor needs to be diagnosed, if freon is not getting pumped to the coil, this would be why.

Remove the cabinet: take out bucket and remove all visible screws; sometimes the plastic cabinet parts also snap together or the top actually has plastic hooks that engage so it has to be slid front or back 1/2" - just be very careful after you remove all screws to determine what is still holding it together BEFORE applying any force.

Once the cabinet is off, the coils are exposed in the front, and the drain pan is under then. Be careful to not damage the coils or bend them. Flush/blow into drain tube or snake with flexible wire to open then, clean out all sludge and lint, and check to make sure drains still open, then reassemble.

Call sears see if the compressor is under warranty 

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

It sounds like you need to check the drain under the cooling section. It can fill with dust, lint, cat hair, spiders, etc. and prevent water from draining into the bucket. First, unplug the unit. Don't do anything with AC power present. Then, remove the 2 screws under the front panel where the air filter slides up in and pull off the control panel. There are "snap" latches in the plastic near the top that can be (are) hard to undo, so be careful. You might want to have work gloves on because of sharp edges. Prying with a screw driver will cause permanent dents in the plastic. Also, there is a small, sleeved bunch of wires that goes up the left side to the operator buttons and display. Be careful not to damage it and the circuit board it goes to. Set the front panel aside, wire attached. There is no need to disassemble any of that. The drain is a small 3/8" hole in the black plastic floor of the cooling area at the front, right side. It seems to have a fitting for a hose that feeds through to the back of the unit. Clean any foreign material from it and everything else. Test it, with the bucket in place, by pouring some water in, if you want to. Then clean the dust off of everything so it looks new. Don't get the circuit board wet. Re-assemble, being careful with the front panel wire so it is not pinched and does not prevent easy removal/installation of the filter, and it should be OK.

Unplug it. Just open the back up carefully. Don't touch those cute little capacitors, diodes, etc., because they can hold a charge. Look for a glass fuse. Use a fuse puller or grab it with your fingers. Look to see if that little thin wire inside is broken.

If yes, then go to Radio Shack or auto parts store and have them match it by size and amps. Reinstall and plug the DH in to see if that was the problem.

If it blows again, you have other elect problems.

that grill like area may be the dehum's coils. Yes they have to be cleaned. You use this dehum every day and so you have to clean it more often. See if you can with a small brush and a vacuum. clean it. Or if you have an air compressor you can blow it out.
Keeping the dehum clean will allow it to work better.