Everything still works except the heating. We have routinely opened the door while the microwave was operating so I suspected the door switch, I already replaced the Door Switch assembly bar incl. the 3 micro-switches.
Open the back and look for a blown glass tube fuse. If the filament is broken, replace the fuse. If it's a solid fuse, do a continuity test. If you have continuity, then it is still good. Good luck!
SOURCE: Will not heat.
Hi I've been out of the microwave repair business for a few years now, but the technology has remained virtually the same as far as I know. You obviously have some knowledge of them, as you know about the safety switches in the door. Microwave ovens are actually a very simple device, to test it, put a coffee cup of water inside, and set the unit on high for one minute. A second or two after you hit the start button, you should hear a fairly loud "bong" noise, and a hum that continues untill the time runs out. That noise is the magnetron starting up, and if that noise does not happen, then the magnetron or related circuitry is probably bad. NEVER open up the oven, as the magnetron may be charged, and must be discharged by a technician. If the sounds that I described are present, then the water should be boiling or close to it in one minute, if not,then something I've never seen has gone wrong. Assuming you had a year warranty on it, I know from experience that if you contact Goldstar customer service by phone, or letter, they will often extend their warranty a month or so to keep happy customers. Its worth a try. Hope this helps you out. P.S. Never operate a microwave without something inside (Non metalic)
SOURCE: GE Microwave JE1640 works only when holding the switch
VK, most likely the switch body has become loose and it's out of adjustment. Unfortunately, to gain access to it, you'll have to remove the MW from the cabinet, set it on a suitable work area and disassemble it. Before doing anything like this, please read the following link carefully and ask yourself if you're up to it... http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html Remove the trim then remove the screws holding the MW. Pull the MW out and rotate slightly to see where it's plugged in and unplug it. Then pull it all the way out. Remove all the aluminum trim from the MW and all the screws holding the cabinet. To remove the cabinet, stand behind the MW and grasp both sides... pull back and up at the same time. Set aside. NOW!!! DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE LINK ABOVE!!! OK, up by the control panel, you'll see the latch/lock assy. (it has 3 brown switches mounted to it). It's held in place by 2 screws, the lower screw is the one you'll be working on. Adjust this by opening and closing the door and watch the action on how it works and make your adjustments as needed. Now, you'll need to test it before reinstalling. Plug it in, BUT DON'T TOUCH ANY WIRING! Now give it a try. If you need to make another adjustment, DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR AGAIN BEFORE DOING SO!!! Do this every time you plug and unplug! Continue adjusting 'til you get it. Now, there's a chance that one of those switches is about to go bad and the mounting bracket is fine. In this case, those switches are generic... not GE specific. Remove the wiring from the switches and make notes on their respective locations. Remove the switches from the bracket (starting from the top) and label them 1, 2 and 3. Take these to your local appliance parts store and ask for generic replacements, they are cheap... about 5 bucks each. Then replace them in the same order you removed them. And re-test. This will get you fixed, but please be careful working on Microwave ovens. They are dangerous!
SOURCE: Microwave Door Switch Problem?
That model number has too many digits after the JVM. Could it be JVM1339BW02 or JVM1339BW002?
If one is bad, it's probably the bottom switch, whose wiring goes back to the power relay, thermostat, or fuse, depending on eact model.
The switch with thin wires going to a ltitle connector on the board is the door sense switch. That's not likely your culprit.
I usually recommend you replace them all while you're at it.
It sounds like it may actually be a loose or misaligned door or door switch mount.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
GE models have a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. Handy in troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Whirlpool GMC305PD -- Thee beeps and won't start
Worked great!! I bought a new fuse for $4.50 and replaced it and the microwave works again....light is still not working but I'm ok with that!! Thanks!!!!
SOURCE: Micro Schematic diagram
Sharps don't have schematics inside anymore, but I have uploaded the diagram to my site for you.
It's here: http://207.234.249.73/mwd/r510fk_wiring.jpg
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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