Unit has rt & lft threaded tapered (point) shafts & seems to have ability to ''chuck'' bits.---this is my first encounter w/ this system and to my dismay and chagrin i can't use it --have all specs from plate stated earlier comm.

The chuck could be threaded like an average power drill.

Respectable drill presses use a hollow quill shaft that is likely to be machined into a taper that is likely to be number 1, 2 or 3 Morse taper.

Morse taper drill bits are used a lot - the shank is tapered and will grip and drive when inserted into the quill with just a small force. When the bit is to be removed the quill is turned by hand until a slot in the quill lines up with a slot in the housing and a wedge-shaped steel tool is slid in and tapped breaking the taper fit.

Most such drill presses are supplied with a chuck for light duty drilling already mounted. The chuck is often a Jacobs type mounting by means of a Jacobs taper onto a Morse taper adaptor.
The adaptor is tapered at both ends - at the lower end the taper is steep and the chuck must be pressed on with some force. The upper end will have the same gentle taper of the Morse taper drill bits and is removed in the same way.

Using the chuck drilling is limited to the capacity of the chuck, typically 1/2" or 5/8" unless blacksmith's drill bits are used that have stepped shanks.
Morse taper drill bits will allow heavy duty drilling far in excess of the chuck capacity.

Hopefully your problem is caused by the chuck rather than a bent quill.

It is a morris taper wedge fit, so just tap it out.

the drill press shaft has a taper in the end and a slot in the side The chuck you will use will have a taper in the back and the adaptor will be tapered to fit in the shaft. The slot is to put in a tapered drift to remove the chuck assembly so that larger drills with tapered shanks can be used. Most twist drills stop at 1/2 inch but reduced shank drills are available with 1/2 ''shank but a bit size up to say 3/4'' After that you will need taper shank drills.. If the drill shaft has a hole from top to bottom you can use special router bits that allow for ma threaded rod to hold them in during milling otherwise the chuck will vibrate and come loose and fall out. It is essential to select the right speed for the drill size being used and I have found that by using combination vices that allow the job to be moved in - out and side ways the jobs you can do are limited by your imagination

I'm not sure about power craft tools, but chucks are either screwed on or have a taper pressed fit.

If it's screwed onto the shaft, there are some tricks to getting the chuck off. (Chucks have normal threads, the retaining screw is reversed threads.)
1. Check for a flat spot on the spindle behind the chuck. If there is one you can clamp down the chuck in a vice and use a wrench to spin off the shaft.
2. Clamp down the chuck onto something and connect it to an impact wrench and try to spin off.
3. (BE CAREFUL) Clamp down on the chuck with a vice and spin the motor in reverse to try and pop it off. (Again be careful.)
4. Take it to any tool repair shop and ask them to take it off. (It's a common request.)

If it's a tapered chuck (usually on drill presses or large chucks) you can clamp something into the jaws of the chuck and hammer away from the drill. Remember to keep it steady while hammering because it probably won't come off if you're just holding in your hand. You need a strong jolt to pop it off the taper.

Most drill press chucks are attached via a tapered post on the back end of the chuck. This is a short post about 3/4 inch in diameter and 3/4 inch tall. This short tapered post (the taper is very slight) fits into a tapered hole. That hole is often in the end of a second a tapered shaft (usually call a taper, R8 is a common designation). That shaft is about 6 or 8 inches long and fits into another hole, much deeper of course. It is this longer taper that is meant to be disassembled routinely for inserting different tools. The short one is not meant to be routinely separated. I'm not sure which of these is giving you trouble, but in either case the key thing is that the mating surfaces be clean. The means of attachment is simply by pressing them together. If it is the short post that has come apart, clean both surfaces carefully with a clean rag - you don't want any dust or dirt at all. Open the jaws of the drill chuck all of the way so that the three jaws are retracted inside the chuck. Place the chuck on the table with table raised up enough that you can pull the drill press handle down slowly but forcefully to fully seat this taper. On the other hand, if it is the long taper that has come apart, this taper is not so slight and it meant to be jammed together by hand. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean, align the tang (that's the top end of the taper that looks like a giant screwdriver blade) is aligned with where it will fit all of the way in, then just give it a quick jam into place by lifting it into place quite briskly. By the way, while clean these tapered surfaces look carefully for any nicks or bumps- you will have to remove these with a small file. It's ok to have a small flat spot on the tapered post or shaft, just keep it very small. Good luck, I hope you found this helpful. Al K

The chuck is held in by the tapered shaft and friction. Make sure the tapered shaft on the chuck is clean with no burrs. Do the same for the socket side in the spindle. Swing the table out of the way and set a wood block under the chuck. Bring the spindle/chuck down into the block quite firmly which should lock the two tapered parts together. Hope this helps as it worked on my drill press!

If it is not reversible directions, then it probably doesn't have a screw inside the chuck holding it onto the shaft like a hand drill. Some drill presses have tapered shafts and are just held in place by friction, others are threaded. If it is threaded, then it is normal right handed thread (AS THE DRILL TURNS, IT KEEPS IT TIGHT) You can try closing the chuck all the way, and with the chuck key in the chuck, strike it with a hammer to the left.

It is possible that this machine has a solid spindle but the chuck is held on the spindle with a tapered end like a Meddings drill. to remove the chuck you will have to make up an extractor out of 2 round bars with holes in them to fit between the shaft and the chuck with bolts though the bars to which you tighten which will force the chuck off the shaft with a little help from a hammer to shock it. It is not an easy job but I would only recommend doing this if you want to change the chuck.

you dont hold it, the chuck is a taper fit and you would need wedges to remove it. the newer chuck would also have to have the same taper to work. if replacing the new chuck you would need to make sure the parts are clean, use a brake cleaner and a paper towel to clean them and then they would press together. Let me know if you still need more assistance.

This drill must have a morse taper shank on the drill itself and has to be tapped on w/ a soft face hammer to seat it on the morse tapered shaft on the drill. clean the taper really well on the drill end and the taper inside the drill chuck and tap together.

Mike