SOURCE: my toro 6.5 self propelled mulching mower with
IF THERE IS A PRIMER BULB ON THE CARB CHECK AND SEE IF IT IS HOLDING GAS IF NOT THE CHECK VALVE UNDER THE PRIMER IS BAD AND SUCKING AIR
SOURCE: I have a Toro Power Clear 180. Brand new from
Hey check this link...
http://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/4dygf-toro-power-clear-180-snow-throwe-wont-start-geting.html
thanks for rating
Good luck
SOURCE: Toro GTS 20332 (bought it 12 months ago) won't run
I believe that Toro Guarantees to start 1 Pull, was gas left in it all winter?, If so this is'nt covered under warranty, cause gas is to be ran out or dumped out at end of season this will prevent any gumming up of carb . did you completely disassemble carb? does it have a primer on it, those gskts need replacing, clean out the jet in bottum of float bowl,small holes,sometimes missed and remove and check your needle/seat to make sure that when float drops gas runs out then lift float up and gas should stop. hope this helped you,another thing spray carb cleaner in carb and pull over and see if it will start that way enough to keep running with choke to see if it will **** gas into it
SOURCE: We placed a 10:1 gas
Here is a link to the Main Ariens Support website:
http://www.ariens.com/corporate/Pages/OwnerManuals.aspx
Here is a link to the Ariens Support website which will help you identify the model number of your machine:
http://apache.ariens.com/images/findmodelserial2011.pdf
Here is a list of specifications for some of products fitting your general description:
http://www.ariens.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/Ariens_Lawn_SpecSheet.pdf
And here is the direct link to the Owner's Manual for one model of your machine:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/04056700_ENG.pdf
To view the Support Page or the Owner's Manual with Operating Instructions just use your mouse to click on the link, which is the underlined and highlighted text just above. This will open a new web browser page automatically for you and allow you to view the information at the website indicated and the contents of the Owner's Manual.
You may need ADOBE READER installed on your computer to read PDF documents.
You can download this free at WWW.ADOBE.COM if necessary.
Click on the DOWNLOAD ADOBE READER button on right side of the ADOBE home page when you get there, then follow the onscreen instructions to install the software on your computer.
If your lawnmower has an OIL FILL HOLE / DIPSTICK and a seperate FUEL TANK / CAP, then your mower engine is a 4 stroke engine and does NOT take mixed gas.
See items 7 and 10 the diagram on page 10 of the owner's manual.
You are supposed to put only straight gasoline (NOT MIXED WITH OIL) into the FUEL TANK.
And you are supposed to put only the recommended oil into the OIL FILL HOLE until the level reaches the FULL mark on the dipstick.
Putting mixed gas into the fuel tank with probably cause some rough running, hard starting, some smoke out of the exhaust, but no permanent damage to the machine.
However, putting ANY gas or mixed fuel into the OIL FILL HOLE can cause IMMEDIATE and catastrophic damage to the engine. If you have done this, then immediately drain the oil tank contents and refill with fresh oil only.
Please comment back here to this page if you have any details to add, have any questions, have difficulty accessing the links, or just require further general assistance and I will respond as soon as I see it.
I hope that was helpful to you, good luck and take care.
Joe.
Hi dana
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and cranking the engine or by pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
Take a picture for later reassembly.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me
Bud
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