Not filling - Jackson Dishwashers

Sounds like its syphoning out the water. If it was overfilling, you would have water everywhere, the machine would eventually flood. Check the drain hose. Make sure the end is higher than the water level in the machine and that there are no extensions running outside which have an end lower than the water level in the machine, it will start syphoning, usually after the first pump out.

Maybe something wrong with the mechanism inside the toilet fill valve. Try to adjust the fill valve first. I found this one about adjusting fill valve, I hope it can help you.

ADJUST MOEN TOILET FILL VALVE 5300 Home

If the problem remain after adjusting the fill valve then I will suggest you to buy a new toilet fill valve and replace with the old one.

Thanks.

The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System (LS4 Static Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (LZE, LZ4, LZ9 Static Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (9C1, 9C3 Static Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (LS4 GE 47716 Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (LZE, LZ4, LZ9, 9C1, 9C3 GE 4771 Fill).
2. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
3. Remove the drive belt.
4. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and pulley.
5. Remove the water pump bolts.
6. Remove the water pump and gasket.
7. Clean the water pump mating surfaces
   1. Position a NEW water pump gasket and the water pump to the engine front cover. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.
   2. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) .

1. Install the water pump pulley and bolts.
2. Install the drive belt.
3. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .
4. Fill the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System (LS4 Static Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (LZE, LZ4, LZ9 Static Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (9C1, 9C3 Static Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (LS4 GE 47716 Fill) Draining and Filling Cooling System (LZE, LZ4, LZ9, 9C1, 9C3 GE 4771 Fill).
5. Inspect for leaks.

Hope this helps

its the problem of drum getting blocked by any clothes getting tucked up.also try to move the drum manually with the machine off.if it makes any noise its the faulty motor.or drum has lost its alignment.it needs to be reseated properly in that case. -------------- The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

Check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.
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The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

D/w's have a fill valve that allows hot water into the tank, a safety float and switch that will cut the power to the fill valve if the water level inside the d/w gets to high. Check if to see if it is gunked up...clean it thoroughly

A DW not filling is often the fill valve. You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned.

I know you said it was replaced....the way you ohm them is to remove the power wires and ohm the valve if the needle pegs out or moves considerably the valve is good...

I hope this helps...good luck....the Fang.

This is often the fill valve.  You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer.  Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned. 

My dishwasher will not fill with water: This is often the fill valve. You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned.