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it seems like your ignition switch may not be removing the ground while in the starting position try removing the ground wire from key switch if it turns over and start with key replace switch assy.
Howdy mi amigo, sound like an electrical all wires do go to ignition switch for gauge ignition starter solenoid or back of the cluster instrument you might have bump it and loosen back connector to cluster instrument panel or the igition switch loose huh.. A loose ignition worn out lock cylinder means bad the mechanical and can create a problem because not in proper starting mode. the electrical ignition switch can go bad does truck start. true that ignition switch you get power to the gauge and starter solenoid does start truck yeah or nay. change loose switch lock cylinder like you said very worn out. Hopefully it's not electrical never been changed and if money a problem remove the lock cylinder and start it this way and see.. and the mechanical key switch can cause a problem too. chances are the electrical switch can go bad too okay. i That all I can say short, worn out switch and back connector cluster or dash Is the lock cylinder pretty worn out bad I would change it and electrical part would have problems if switch not work right. if bad mechanical switch worn out bad I would change too. You have change it or remove and then a screw driver into the hole where remove starter switch cylinder and crank it there. Notice the gauge working electrical switch on and notice the gauge working. You said you put your hand back and sometimes the connector on instrument cluster do loosen up sometimes and looking for a short wire and you can smell a burn wire right. Look brother try it check the back of the cluster panel electrical connector, loose wires to starter solenoid too, burn wire and worn out switch and lock cylinder or maybe electrical ignition switch. Good Luck amigo and I am saying to spend alot of money. One thing at a time and electrical parts can't be return when use.
Sounds like you have pressed the switch to hard and bent the contacts inside which means replacing or sometimes just using inox, crc,wd40 or simular because of corrosion, might help.
I think I would start with the safety lock out switches ie does the bike have a switch that stops you from starting the machine with the kick stand down? Or the neutral safety switch or the kill switch.You are going to have to go and get a 12 volt meter or a test lamp and follow the power from the battery to the switch,out and in of these various switches.I agree 100% that this is electrical in nature.Don't forget to check the starter solenoid as well.Good Luck
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